" We don't sell the wine without touching the vine "
Wine from Coulee de Serrant
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Exclusively owned by the Joly family, the Coulée de Serrant vineyard is a controlled appellation of only 7 hectares.
The vineyard was planted in 1130 by Cistercian monks and today consists of vines aged from 35 to 80 years old. The old small monastery still exists and a few hundred meters away, the castle of La Roche aux Moines was built and dismantled during the wars of religion.
Always considered as a rare and unique product, the Serrant Casting was celebrated by Louis XI and Louis XIV as one of the best French white wines.
The vineyard is cultivated partly by hand and partly by horse because of the steep slopes overlooking the Loire.
Since 1984, the entire estate has been cultivated using biodynamic farming methods. Three wines are produced in small quantities on the property and benefit from the principles of biodynamic agriculture:”Coulée de Serrant”,”Clos de la Bergerie” and “Les Vieux Clos”.
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Weingut Prager Achleiten Riesling Smaragd is made from 100 percent Riesling.
Franz Prager, co-founder of the Vinea Wachau, had already earned a reputation for his wines when Toni Bodenstein married into the family. Bodenstein’s passion for biodiversity and old terraces, coupled with brilliant winemaking, places Prager in the highest echelon of Austrian producers.
Smaragd is a designation of ripeness for dry wines used exclusively by members of the Vinea Wachau. The wines must have a minimum alcohol of 12.5%. The grapes are hand-harvested, typically in October and November, and are sent directly to press where they spontaneously ferment in stainless-steel tanks.
Achleiten sits east of Weißenkirchen and is one of the most famous vineyards in the Wachau. The steeply-terraced vineyard existed in Roman times. Some sections have just 40 cm of topsoil over the bedrock of Gföler Gneiss, amphibolitic stone, and slate. “Destroyed soil,” as Toni Bodenstein likes to say.
Tasting Notes:
Austrian Riesling is often defined by elevated levels of dry extract thanks to a lengthy ripening period and freshness due to dramatic temperature swings between day and night. Wines from Achleiten’s highly complex soils are famously marked by a mineral note of flint or gun smoke, are intensely flavored, and reliably long-lived.
Food Pairing:
Riesling’s high acidity makes it one of the most versatile wines at the table. Riesling can be used to cut the fattiness of foods such as pork or sausages and can tame some saltiness. Conversely, it can highlight foods such as fish or vegetables in the same way a squeeze of lemon or a vinaigrette might.
Review:
The 2020 Ried Achleiten Riesling Smaragd offers a well-concentrated, fleshy and spicy stone fruit aroma with crunchy and flinty notes. It needs some time to get rid of the stewed fruit flavors, though. Full-bodied, fresh and crystalline, this is an elegant, complex and finely tannic Riesling that needs some years rather than a carafe to polymerize the tannins and gain some finesse. Tasted at the domain in June 2021. At Prager, I could not determine that 2020 would be inferior to the 2019 vintage; on the contrary, the 2020 Smaragd wines fascinated me enormously in their clear, cool, terroir-tinged way. A 38% loss had occurred mainly because of the hail on August 22, although predominantly in the Federspiel or Riesling vineyards. There was no damage in the top vineyards such as Ried Klaus, Achleiten or Zwerithaler. "Interestingly, the vines are in agony for about two weeks after the hail. There was no more growth, no development of ripeness and sugar," reports Toni Bondenstein. The Veltliner then recovered earlier, while even picking a Riesling Federspiel in October was still a struggle. "Why Riesling reacted more intensively to the hail, I don't know myself either," says Bodenstein. Whole clusters were pressed to preserve acidity and to compensate for the lower extract, and compared to 2019, the 2020s were left on their lees longer. In June, however, the 20s in particular showed outstanding early shape.
-Wine Advocate 94 Points
Light yellow-green, silver reflections. Yellow stone fruit nuances with a mineral underlay, notes of peach and mango, a hint of tangerine zest, mineral touch. Juicy, elegant, white fruit, acidity structure rich in finesse, lemony-salty finish, sure aging potential.
-Falstaff 95 Points
How can you resist the allure of the beautifully ripe peaches and wild roses? Extremely focused and filigree, a great deal of ripeness of concentration packed into a sleek frame. Wonderfully uplifting mineral freshness and a smoky finish thatâs as firm as it is delicate. Drink or hold.
-James Suckling 96 Points
Rudi Pichler Grüner Veltliner Ried Achleithen Smaragd 2023 is made from 100% Grüner Veltliner.
Grüner Veltliner is the signature grape of Austria and produces a dry white wine with savory aromas, spicy flavors, and good acidity. Grüner Veltliner Smaragd from the Wachau is a full-bodied wine and is rich in style with notes of stone fruit, lemon, radish, and arugula.
Grüner Veltliner’s bright acidity and savory character make it an ideal partner to mildly spiced Vietnamese, Thai, and Chinese flavors. Fish and shellfish are accented by Grüner Veltliner’s citrus and mineral profile while its acidity cuts the richness of pork or ham. It can also work well with foods that are difficult to pair such as bitter greens and asparagus.
Review:
#13 in Top 100 Wines of Austria, 2024. Such an expressive and elegant gruner veltliner. Yes, it has those classic peppery aromas on the medium-bodied palate, but there’s also an entire floral dimension that makes it stand out so prominently. Then comes the extremely long, silky and refined finish that’s incredibly sensuous. Sustainable. Drink or hold.
James Suckling, 98 points
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