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Wine from Bertani
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Bertani was founded in 1857 by brothers Gaetano and Giovan Battista Bertani. Prosperous wine merchants who believed that quality winemaking held the key to the future, the Bertanis invested their funds in buying some of the finest vineyards in the province and making their own wines. Consequently, unlike many other local producers, Bertani owns its own vineyards and so is able to oversee the entire winemaking cycle from start to finish. Recognition and success followed swiftly as Bertani became one of the first Veronese producers to export its wines on a significant scale. In the early years Bertani spearheaded a campaign to underscore the potential of Verona's Valpolicella Valpantena wine district. The release of its Secco-Bertani Valpantena brand, still in production over 150 years later, is responsible for putting this DOC on the map. The late 1950s saw Bertani take center stage again, with the launch of a new-style Recioto della Valpolicella. Through the introduction of longer aging techniques, this traditionally sweet or sparkling red wine was dramatically transformed into the dry, opulent red we know today as Amarone, one of Italy's most revered red wines. Recent years have been no less eventful. In 1986 an extraordinary cache of 1928 Recioto della Valpolicella Acinatico was discovered, bricked up behind the walls of a farmhouse on a Bertani estate where it had lain undisturbed since the twilight years of World War II. Tastings by experts confirm that the wine's quality remains intact. A superb vintage, as exceptional as it is rare, it is served exclusively at charity events hosted by Bertani. To maintain its extensive vineyards, Bertani engages the skills of some of Italy's most eminent viticulturalists. From its vineyards to its cellars, Bertani offers a fascinating and memorable introduction to Veronese winemaking at its best, where progressive techniques and equipment are allied with extensive experience and a deeply felt respect for tradition.
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Bertani Valpantena Amarone is made from 80% Corvina Veronese, 20% Rondinella.
The best grapes are selected so that only the healthiest and ripest bunches are sent to the drying rooms in the historic winery at Grezzana, where they are laid out in single-layer crates. In mid- January, the grapes are destemmed and crushed, then fermentation starts, at first at a temperature of 39°F- 41°F, which then reaches 72°F in the final stages.
WINEMAKING
The vines are vertical-trellised and Guyot-trained, with a planting density of 2024 plants per acre. Hand harvest is carried out in the middle of September.
This amarone is produced in the Valpantena hills, north of Verona. The soils are calcareous-marl in the east and calcareous-clay in the west, rich in iron.
TERROIR & VINTAGE NOTES
Bertani’s impact on Veneto wine making, particularly in Amarone production, is so considerable that ‘Bertani’ and ‘Amarone’ are nearly synonymous. Their 150+ year history is dotted with groundbreaking initiatives and royal accreditation. While respectful of their past, Bertani strives towards innovation, using progressive techniques and equipment allied with extensive experience and a deeply felt respect for tradition to provide wines of uncompromising quality.
On the nose, marked and intense aromas of very ripe cherries, sour cherries, spicy and nutty notes typical of the Valpantena. Good follow-through of red fruits on the palate, with supple tannins to give depth. This full bodied wine pairs well with rich dishes, mature cheeses and strong-flavored meats.
Bertani Valpolicella Ripasso Classico Superiore Catullo is made from 70% Corvina Veronese, 20% Corvinone, 10% Rondinella. Valpolicella Classica, Tenuta Novare Estate in Arbizzano di Negrar.
Wine of medium structure with elegant spicy notes of vanilla and chocolate accompanied by typical notes of cherry, sour cherry and white pepper. The palate offers the easy drinkability typical of Valpolicella and, at the same time, silky tannic structure and intense, prolonged aromatic persistence. The finish is fresh, soft and savory. A wine in the classic style, elegant, balanced, harmonious.
Review:
If I was forced to choose a number of wines that can steer the anachronistic Ripasso category into a brighter future, this would be among a very few. A mid-weighted, streamlined expression with just enough fruit on the bones. Think strawberries, lilacs, Asian plums, cloves and a hint of licorice. A noble, almost alpine bitterness lifts the finish. Brilliant. Drink or hold.
-James Suckling 95 Points
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Poggio San Polo Podernovi Brunello di Montalcino is made from Sangiovese.
Intense ruby red in color with garnet hues, clear and glossy. The bouquet exhibits typical aromas of violets and small red berries. Subtle nuances of forest undergrowth, aromatic wood, a touch of vanilla and jammy mixed fruit then give way to subtle hints of coffee. This Brunello is intense, persistent, broad and heady. Full-bodied and warm on the palate, with a densely-woven texture and robust body, it has a persistent finish with well-rounded tannins. The particular features of the terroir at San Polo produce a Brunello with a capacity for lengthy aging, while patient cellaring enhances the wine during ageing in the bottle.
Review:
Lovely purity of fruit with ultra fine tannins and depth, finesse and complexity. Black cherries, cedar and some flowers. It’s full-bodied with very fine tannins that drive the finish. Give it a year or two to open more, but already so enticing. Drink or hold.
-James Suckling 96 Points
The San Polo 2015 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva (with 8,000 bottles produced) is a textured wine with hearty fruit and touches of smoked meat and spice. At its core, the wine offers dark fruit, blackberry and ripe plum. The rich fruitiness of the wine cedes to campfire ash, mahogany and furniture wax. These results are sultry and even a bit flashy, with distant background tones of teriyaki and plum sauce. The wine is fermented in cylindrical oak fermenters and aged in oak for three years. We'll see this bottle hitting the market sometime after February 2021.
-Wine Advocate 95 Points
Belle Glos, a passion project of fifth-generation winemaker Joe Wagner (Caymus Vineyards), is famous for its bold, expressive Pinot Noirs. With this Rosé, Joe applies his "Go With Your Palate" philosophy to the world of sparkling wine, creating a unique, uncompromising, and luxurious offering. The inspiration for this wine began over a decade ago in Champagne, when Joe encountered an ancient, bone-dry bottle aged in tirage (on the lees with no dosage), igniting his passion for this pure, traditional style. The resulting Zero Dosage Rosé is a 100% Pinot Noir sparkling wine produced in the Méthode Champenoise (traditional method), capturing the lively elegance of the Russian River Valley.
Zero Dosage is a bold style—it is bone dry, allowing the pure expression of the terroir and the traditional methods to shine without the sweetness of added sugar. To compensate for this lack of dosage, Joe employs intensive winemaking techniques: the base wine is aged in French oak, undergoes malolactic fermentation (for texture), and is a multi-vintage blend. This blending ensures a youthful, vibrant expression is harmonized with complex, aged characteristics, resulting in a sparkling wine with searing acidity, fine bubbles, and a firm mineral backbone that evolves beautifully over time.
This wine is bright and vibrant, with flavors of orange zest, raspberry, bright cherry, and apricot. Its firm minerality and fine bubbles make it a pure, exciting, and refreshing experience.
The wine's searing acidity and bone-dry profile make it an exceptional partner for delicate, rich, or spicy dishes. Pair with Smoked Salmon, fresh oysters, a spicy tuna roll, or the classic combination of roast chicken and goat cheese.
Review:
“This bone dry and razor sharp Brut Rosé displays aromas of tangerine, tart strawberry and melon on the nose, giving way to an acid-driven palate loaded with flavors of mixed citrus, Ranier cherry, and white flowers that linger across the finish.” — Tom R. Capo.
Wine Enthusiast: 92 points
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