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Donelan Knight's Valley Obsidian Vineyard Syrah 2023


Obsidian Vineyard Syrah is bathed in terroir. The vines experience severe stress, pushing the roots ever deeper through rock in search of water, producing miniature clusters of intense power. Given the wine’s natural propensity for tannin, we take extreme care in the cellar to chisel/whittle its rough edges and leave room for richness to flatter its distinctive scaffold. The mid-palate supports flavors of roasted coffee beans, sarsaparilla, and dark chocolate. The finish marches on long after most wines have tired.

Our estate vineyard — the six-acre Obsidian Vineyard in the Knights Valley AVA — has an incredibly complex soil structure. It takes its name from a layer of volcanic obsidian rock that was discovered when we drilled for water.

Chocolate ganache, black currants, fig, graphite, and an expansive mouthfeel.

Review:

"Joe Donelan believes his Obsidian Vineyard is one of the world’s greatest sites for Syrah. I’ve visited the site twice, and can say candidly it certainly sits among the most striking vineyards I've ever laid eyes on within the U.S. It sits like a rock on a promontory—two switchbacks to reach the top—and the stones under the top soil, quite literally, never stop emerging from the ground. The place has an ancient, almost sacred, temple-like feel. It is consistently swept by afternoon breezes. The vineyard was replanted in 2017 after fires ravaged it. Winemaker David Milner laid out the site at denser spacing than before, at 2,000 vines per acre to keep yields per vine low while still achieving sensible tonnage, averaging around three tonnes per acre. Viognier was planted for co-fermentations, alongside some Cabernet Sauvignon, for a single vineyard bottling of that grape. ‘God put on his viticultural hat when he designed this site,’ says Milner. The vineyard is planted with ENTA 174, 877, and Alban 1 clones, along with Donelan Heritage selections certified virus-free. The wine, the 2023 vintage release (the first from the new vines), was aged for 21 months in 36% new oak and co-fermented with 1.8% Viognier, using 32% whole clusters. And it is positively gorgeous: composed of nine different blocks, each fermented separately, then assembled through sequential blending, with no racking until bottling. From just five-year-old vines, this wine is utterly extraordinary—something oddly achievable from young vines on rare occasion. I tasted this wine from the same bottle over three days. While the high-toned espresso-bean and cedar accents are present at first pull of the cork, they mellow out a day later, and the fruit profile is so vibrant. This is the sign of an excellent wine. I first tasted wines from the Donelan’s Obsidian Vineyard years ago at Tasting Panel Magazine in the late, great Anthony Dias Blue’s office. Cushing Donelan showed the wines, and to this day, I recall the first moment I put my nose into a glass of Obsidian Syrah. In early January of 2026, as I nosed this brand new release of Obsidian Syrah, I was transported straight back to that tasting twelve years ago. What’s remarkable is that the aromatics are unmistakably the same, yet from these new, more densely planted vines, the aromas are more refined—precision-farmed wines from young vines delivering a level of detail and poise that feels beyond their years. So what’s in the glass? Pure red, black, and blue fruit nuances layered with tobacco, white truffle character, violet pastille, and an intoxicating perfume. White pepper notes emerge on the medium- to full-bodied palate, framed by velvety tannins. Iron-like and crushed slate minerality underpins dazzling black cherry and blackberry fruit, brown spices, and blood orange richness. There’s a velvety, iron-fist quality here that exudes polish, complexity, and undeniable quality. You want to drink it now—and you absolutely can—but it will also reward time in the cellar. Either way, you’ll be utterly wowed. And when you realise the price is under £100, the achievement becomes even more staggering. As these vines mature, what will become of them in subsequent vintages? I suspect that as the vines mature, they'll go in and out of phases, but so long as Mother Nature cooperates, I expect this wine to continue to dazzle each vintage. - Jonathan CRISTALDI"

Decanter (January 5th 2026), 100 points


This is the first vintage of the Obsidian Syrah after wildfires torched the vineyard in 2017, leading to significant redevelopment. Throughout all those years, the Donelans have exhibited remarkable patience and a clear sense of purpose. This is their reward: a truly magnificent, towering wine of the highest level.

Knights Valley is one of the most magical grape-growing districts in the United States, but it is not very well known because only a few estate wineries are located there.

The 2023 Syria Obsidian Estate is one of the most profound, moving wines I have tasted in Sonoma County. Blackberry, gravel, incense, chocolate, lavender, and dried herbs race out of the glass. Delicate yet powerful, the 2023 is spectacular. It is also very fairly priced in today’s market.

Vinous 100 Points

 Vinous Antonio Galloni: 100 100 Points
Dr. Loosen Graacher Himmelreich Alte Reben Riesling Grosses Gewachs 2020

A heavenly, full-bodied dry Riesling with forceful minerality from 100-year-old vines grown in the blue slate soil of Graach.

Graach is a small village in the Mosel valley. It’s steep slate slopes produce wines that combine elegance with rustic strength. Grosses Gewächs (GG) is the designation for an estate’s best dry wine from a Grosse Lage (grand cru) vineyard. This limited-production wine was fermented with indigenous yeasts and kept in the barrel, on the full lees, for a year before bottling. The extended maturation time allows the wine to develop greater texture and a deeper natural harmony. This is a fully ripe wine, with vibrant aromatics and a pronounced acidity that gives it a brilliant structural precision.

Review:

Convincing proof that 2020 is an excellent vintage for dry GG on the Mosel! Cool and stony with delicate white-peach and white-currant aromas. Really takes off at the intensely slatey and racy finish.
-James Suckling 95-96 Points

 96 Points
Dr. Loosen Wehlener Sonnenuhr Alte Reben Riesling Grosses Gewachs 2020

Dr. Loosen Wehlener Sonnenuhr Alte Reben Riesling Grosses Gewachs is made from 100 percent Riesling. 

This is one of the greatest vineyards in the Middle Mosel. This precipitously steep, rocky vineyard consistently yields some of the most elegant and sophisticated white wines in the world. Citrus and white peach flavors predominate when the wines are young, turning to a pure expression of the mineral soil as they age.

 

Reviews:

Tasted as a cask sample in Wiesbaden in August 2021, the 2020 Wehlener Sonnenuhr GG Alte Reben offers a very intense and beautifully spicy, slatey nose. Rich and intense on the palate, with remarkable freshness and lemon flavors, this is an intense and dense, very salty and persistent Sonnenuhr from ancient vines. Very promising.
Robert Parker's Wine Advocate 93-95
 

Stunning white-fruit and floral aromas are married to a full and very silky body. Concentration and gracefulness all at once. A charmer with more than enough structure.
-James Suckling 94-95 Points


 Wine Advocate: 95 95 Points
Falletto di Bruno Giacosa Barolo DOCG 2018

Falletto di Bruno Giacosa Barolo is made from 100 percent Nebbiolo 

The 2018 vintage was well received after the turbulent 2017 growing year. A longer winter heralded in heavy rains in May and June, which gave the vines much needed water after the previous year's drought. Throughout the summer, conditions were generally ideal with warm days and cool nights, making harvest an overall success. Early samples of Barbaresco and Barolo are indicating a soft, balanced vintage.

Red garnet in color. Intense and fine aromas of fresh red fruit. The palate presents good freshness, excellent structure and fine, velvety tannins.

  • Vineyard exposure: Southwest
  • Age of vines: 27-31 years old
  • Yield: 45 hL/ha
  • Harvest date: October 10, 2018
  • Fermentation and maceration: 25 days in stainless steel vats
  • Malolactic fermentation: completely developed
  • Refinement: 30 months in Botti cask of French oak, 6 months in bottle
  • Bottling: December 2021
  • Alcohol: 14.5% vol.
  • Total acidity: 5.5 g/L
  • pH: 3.60
  • Total extract: 30.2 g/L
  • Optimal period for consumption: 2022-2035



Review:

The 2018 Bruno Giacosa Barolo is very rich and hedonistic, with ripe strawberries and rose hip and notes of incense, lilies and violets. It is a lovely nose, persistent, intense and enticing and on the palate it is like falling into a soft velvety bed of rose petals. It already has such beautiful harmony and poise. It has a lush, sensual texture of crushed velvet, and is full-bodied without feeling heavy. There are plenty of dense, savory tannins extending the very long finish, creating a combination of seductive charm and power. This is something special, a great achievement in this vintage. Wait 2-3 years at least but I would not want to miss that young fragrance. (SH)

-Wine Independent 98 Points

 

 98 Points
Famille Sambardier Pouilly Fuisse La Levee 2022

Famille Sambardier Pouilly Fuisse La Levee is made from 100% Chardonnay

The wine is very aromatic, with brioche, butter and citrus flavors. The length to the finish is long and balanced with great acidity and richness.

Hand harvested. Grapes were sourced from a vineyard in the village of Solutré. 10% of the wine was aged in French Oak barrels.

Excellent with poultry and fresh water fish. Delicious also with goat cheeses.


Fullerton Lichtenwalter Pinot Noir 2016

Fullerton Lichtenwalter Pinot Noir  is made from 100% Pinot Noir - 10 years old

12 months in 100% neutral French Oak

On the western slope of the south-facing Ribbon Ridge sits the lovely Lichtenwalter Vineyard. Here Willakenzie soils, derived from ancient sedimentary seabed, coax black fruits and concentrated spices out of the wines. 

Aromas of blackcurrant, blueberry, blackberry, and black cherry with concentrated spices followed by hints of sandalwood, smoke and oolong tea. Depth in the mid-palate pairs with balanced acidity, and so, yet structured tannins. The Willamee Valley’s smallest AVA speaks clearly and compellingly through this wine.

This wine comes from 100% destemmed rotator barrels fermented at ambient temperature reaching a peak temperature of 73° F. The rotator barrel spun twice daily during fermentation yielding a gentle extraction. Aer fermentation, the wine went through a three-week extended maceration, allowing the tannins to polymerize, soening the wine. Aged for 12 months in French oak barrels and three months in tank, the wine was then boled aer filtration.

Review:


"Deep, brilliant red. Smoke-accented cherry, blackberry and violet scents show very good clarity and pick up a hint of spiciness with air. Chewy and focused on the palate, offering appealingly sweet dark berry and spicecake flavors that are braced by a spine of juicy acidity. Dusty tannins build steadily on an impressively long, penetrating finish that strongly echoes the cherry and floral notes. (all de-stemmed fruit and all neutral French oak, made entirely from the 777 Dijon clone°. - Josh Raynolds"

- Antonio Galloni's Vinous (June 2019), 92 pts


 Vinous Antonio Galloni: 92
Showing 55 to 60 of 1646 (275 Pages)
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