The Caveau du Mont July Estate
We visited the winery in January 2007 for the first time and met Jean-Louis Ronger who organized a very nice reception for us. We enjoyed tasting his wines together with the local "tarte au sucre" (sugar pie). The owner Jean Louis Ronger has been producing wine from Bugey for thirteen years. He represents the first generation of his family to make wine. The Caveau is located in the tiny village of Bohas, a 40 minute drive from the city of Bourg-en-Bresse, famous for its "Bresse" chicken.
The Caveau du Mont July Vineyard
The region is located on the lower slopes of the Jura mountains made of calcareous or siliceous clay. Because of the topography, the vineyard is divided into 10 small parcels where 80 wine producers make Bugey wines. Production includes traditional red, rose, white, sparkling wines or marc brandy. The Bugey Cerdon area is very small, covering only 150 hectares of vines. Wines from Bugey Cerdon are not A.O.C. wines but V.D.Q.S. (Vin Delimite de Qualite Superieure).
Caveau du Mont July's vineyard measures 4 hectares (9.8 acres) but only 1.8 hectare is under vines. The yield is 72-75 hectoliters/hectare.
Beliere Bugey-Cerdon is made from 95% Gamay, 5% Poulsard (a local grape from Jura).
Spontaneous fermentation. An altogether preferable scenario to spontaneous combustion, and A LOT more fun to drink. This pink, semi-dry bubbly was made by spontaneous fermentation, otherwise known as methode ancestrale. Grapes are picked by hand (not just any grapes, these are the local Poulsard and Gamay grown on mountainous slopes in the shadow of the Alps), and fermented in chilled vats just reaching 5 or 6 degrees alcohol. The young and light wine is then bottled, along with its active yeast and considerable unfermented sugars. Under pressure of the cork, the wine continues to ferment, gaining a few degrees of alcohol but retaining a nice amount of sweetness. The bubbles, of course, are another result of fermentation under pressure. This one is so delicious and fun to drink, with a distinctly, well, grapy aroma and a fruitiness that calls out for celebration and jubilation.
This is also wonderful served with chocolate cake!
8% ABV.
Produced from the "Ancestral method" (also used to produce Clairette de Die): Low temperature fermentation starting in the tank, light filtration that leaves active yeast in the wine, bottling of the wine with fermentation continuing in the bottle ("spontaneous fermentation in the bottle"), retaining some sugar (40 gr/liter at the end). Made from 95% Gamay, 5% Poulsard (a local grape from Jura).
Review:
"Amber color. Aromas and flavors of cranberry juice, rose petal, cherry and kiwi, and red apple with a round, bright, effervescent, fruity medium-to-full body and a delightful, medium-long finish that shows nuances of cherry, cranberry, beeswax, and rose water. Concentrated fruit flavors, creamy bubbles, and well balanced acidity will make this a splendid pairing with charcuterie." - Beverage Testing -Institute (November 2022), 92 pts - Gold Medal
Enemigo El Enemigo Gran Enemigo is made from 100% Cabernet Franc.
In the spectrum of people who pay attention to detail, winemakers are often incredibly detail-oriented. This can sometimes spill over to become an internal battled, and, as Alejandro Vigil and Adrianna Catena state, "We are our own worst enemy." El Enemigo pays homage to this internal struggle.
The nose presents sweet aromas of black ripen fruits with hints of vanilla and chocolate, which appear after the oak ageing. The mouthfeel is sweet with structured, persistent tannins due to the natural acidity of this wine, leading into an excellent long finish.
Review:
The nose of the 2018 Gran Enemigo El Cepillo Single Vineyard, from a low-yielding and drier year, is full of curry, a note that was a constant across the three vintages I tasted together, but it tends to be stronger in low-yielding and dry years like this. It's also floral and comes through as aromatic and a little exotic, in a good way, with elegance, persistence and very pure flavors. It has fine-grained tannins, great acidity and balance. 7,200 bottles. All these single-vineyard bottlings mature in ancient 4,000-liter oak foudres for some 15 months.
-Wine Advocate 97 Points"Pretty and inviting on the nose with gorgeous aromas of floral violet, cassis and completed with a lifted, delicate liquorice note. The palate is graced with deep herb, pepper, crunchy red fruit and graceful, silky tannins."
-Decanter 97 Points
Pazo de Senorans Seleccion de Anada Albarino is made from 100 percent Albarino.
Straw yellow with greenish tints, vivid and brilliant. High intensity and very expressive. Profusion of aromas with traces of mineral. Great volume and ample body leaving a lasting impression from beginning to end.
Reviews:
The 2015 Albariño Selección de Añada is nothing short of phenomenal. For some reason, I hadn't tasted the young 2015 Albariño at the time it was released. It comes from the Los Bancales vineyard planted some 50 years ago and fermented with indigenous yeasts but without malolactic fermentation. It has a bright, almost fluorescent color and a complex, subtle and nuanced, elegant and expressive nose, with notes of sea shells and sea breeze, grass and white flowers. It's very clean, and the palate shows great balance and even feels a bit young. It has remarkable acidity and freshness (seven grams of tartaric acid) with good ripeness and 13% alcohol. This matured in tank with lees for over 30 months and was bottled in June 2024. It feels more serious and less exotic than earlier vintages. 18,000 bottles produced. This is the finest vintage that I can remember. Bravo!
-Wine Advocate 97 Points
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