Wine from DuMol

DuMOL 'Isobel' Charles Heintz Vineyard Sonoma Coast Chardonnay is made from Chardonnay.

Founded in 1996, DuMOL is one of the Russian River Valley's benchmark producers of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Syrah, built on meticulous, small-lot winemaking under longtime winegrower Andy Smith. "Isobel" is DuMOL's bottling from the legendary Charles Heintz Vineyard, planted high on a ridge above Occidental on the far Sonoma Coast — some of California's oldest and most coveted Chardonnay vines, now more than forty years old. Fermented and aged in cigar-shaped French oak barrels, the 2023 captures the site's signature oily texture and breadth alongside crystalline, mineral energy.

Review:

"The 2023 Chardonnay Isobel Charles Heintz Vineyard was brought in on October 12 and 14, very late by historical standards. It captures all the magic of this site in its oily texture and breadth. Citrus confit, white pepper, flowers and crushed rocks are all beautifully delineated. For readers who want to know what Charles Heintz Chardonnay is all about, this is it!"

- Antonio Galloni, Vinous, 96 Points

Winemaker’s Notes

Our organically farmed high-density Estate parcel sits at the top of the ridge amongst the diverse coastal forest. Although the soil is sandy, there’s a vein of clay in the subsoil that holds winter rain and allows us to dry-farm the vines. The tight spacing keeps the clusters and soil shaded during the summer heat, which allows the fruit to retain all the nuance of the site. The wine produced here has a character - a signature - all to itself and cannot be replicated elsewhere; it's the antithesis of fruity, forward, easy-to-understand Californian Chardonnay. The grapes are small with thick skins, producing a high level of fruit extract, which translates to deep texture and structure in the wine itself. Concentration allied to freshness is the essence of this wine, and it ages beautifully in bottle for ten to twelve years. 

The wine’s aromas and flavors are incredibly complex and diverse, akin to citrus oil, preserved lemon, sage, fennel and caraway. The wine is deep, powerful, and layered with oyster shell freshness cutting through the natural density. Lemongrass, spearmint, and grapefruit power the finish, which pulsates with intensity. You could decant this for an hour before serving to hasten its development. Drink between 2025 and 2030. Serve no cooler than 55º F. 

Review:

-Jeb Dunnuck 96 Points

-James Suckling 97 Points

Our DuMOL Estate Vineyard is our original high-density vine planting from 2004. It’s organically farmed without irrigation – these vines work hard each season. We make a strict selection for this bottling, one of our flagship wines, so that only three acres of its nine total comprise this bottling; the balance forms the core of Highland Divide. This is the best of the best. The high vine density and exclusively Calera Selection produce a wine with a significant level of both tannin and acidity. This structure is buffered by a deep core of fruit extract, the product of the ripe grape skins themselves, and the essence of the wine. Each vintage can age for many years, and it gradually deepens into a woodsy, truffley, and enveloping wine with grand scale complexity while never relinquishing its inherent brightness. 

The wine’s aromas and flavors are akin to black cherry, boysenberry, hibiscus, anise, moss, and juniper. The palate is simultaneously bright yet dark, with mineral drive, violet floral lift, and bay laurel freshness. Tannins and acidity fuse to lengthen these flavors, and the wine finishes with dried herbs and orange zest lift. Great aging potential. Drink between 2025 and 2034 and decant for an hour in its youth to hasten the development. 

Review:

-The Wine Independent 97 Points

Deep inky dark fruit aromas alongside gravelly minerals, violet, and Kalamata. The palate flavors follow the aromas with a sweet core of blackberry pastille wrapped up in a coating of cocoa nib and cassis liqueur. The wine is quite densely packed with clear deep intensity before turning silky and graceful on an elegant lavender-infused finish.

Review:

-Robert Parker's Wine Advocate 94 Points