
The Gourt de Mautens Jerome Bressy Estate
Gourt de Mautens is a family owned winery located in Rasteau that started in 1996. In 1998, Jerome Bressy took over the 13 hectares of vineyard and for him it was a dream come true. Next the winery and the ageing cellar were built.
This is the insider’s wine of the Southern Rhone. Many winemakers in the Rhone Valley, Christophe Delorme (Domaine de la Mordoree) included, feel that Jerome Bressy will be making the best wines in the entire Southern Rhone Valley in the future.
Jerome chose the options of small yields (8-15 hectoliters/hectare) and organic farming (now controlled by Ecocert) along with the use of homeopathy, which he considers essential conditions for making a great wine. Since 1989 they have not used any chemical fertilizers or pesticides on the vines, so the soil can give what it has to give in the most natural way. The yields have always been lower than average because of his father’s concern about grape quality. The estate took another step forward in the organic farming by becoming biodynamic in 2007.
The Domaine produces an average of 2,000 cases each year, red and white wine, both of equal quality (not quantity), from small different plots in Rasteau. These are homogeneous wines as each plot is farmed with the same concern for perfection, regardless of any difference in quality among them. The goal being to be at nature’s service, stepping in the process only when necessary.
The name of the Estate, "Gourt de Mautens", is the name of the area where part of the vineyard and the family farm are located. This name dates back to 1635. In provencal dialect "Gourt" means a place where the water flows from and "mautens" means bad weather. Thus, it is an area where water flows from chalky clay marly soil when it rains.
"This is one of the sensational estates in Rasteau, with proprietor Jerome Bressy farming just over 20 acres of vines. Organic farming and the naturally low yields of his old vines (8-15 hectoliters per hectare) result in wines of extraordinary concentration and intensity."
- Wine Advocate (Issue 175, Feb. 08),
The Gourt de Mautens Jerome Bressy Vineyard
The vineyard measures 13 hectares (32 acres) and is made of several parcels planted on terraces, hillsides, banks and plateaux with a northwestern and southwestern sun exposure. The soils are made of clay and limestone marls.
Most of the vines are 45-90 years old, only 1/3rd of them is 5-30 years old. On some parcels different varieties can be found on the same row, just like it used to be in the ancient times.
Red : 70% Grenache ; 30% Carignan, Mourvèdre, Syrah, Counoise, Muscardin and Vaccarèse.
White : 45% Grenache blanc, 45% Bourboulenc, 10% various
Fortified wine (Vin doux naturel): 90% Grenache and 10% Carignan
Green harvest of the younger vines. A first selection is done in the parcels during the harvest (the grapes that are not selected are left on the ground).
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Every now and then, in life and in wine, we are presented with unique opportunities to express ourselves and create something truly remarkable.
When rare opportunities arise, we need to capture, nurture and develop them so that their potential is fulfilled. So when Torbreck was given the opportunity to work with one of the most famous vineyards in the Barossa Valley, it became almost inevitable that the resulting wine would be truly remarkable.
In 2003, Torbreck growers and fourth generation descendants of the Seppelt family, Malcolm and Joylene Seppelt, asked our winemakers to create for them a small batch of Shiraz from their old Gnadenfrei vineyard in the sub-region of Marananga.
Planted in 1958, the five acre vineyard is traditionally dry grown and comes from an original Barossa clonal source. South facing, on the eastern side of a ridge separating the Seppeltsfield and Marananga appellations, these aged vines have been meticulously hand tended, traditionally farmed and pruned by a grower with a lifetime’s experience on Western Barossa soils of very dark, heavy clay loam over red friable clay. The resulting low yields of small, concentrated Shiraz berries make the vineyard the envy of all winemakers in the Barossa.
We looked longingly at the wine when it was returned to the Seppelts, knowing that it was the best we had ever made. In 2005 we convinced the Seppelts to sell Torbreck the fruit and The Laird was born. In 2013 Torbreck purchased the Gnadenfrei vineyard, securing The Laird’s reputation as one of the world’s great single vineyard Shiraz wines.
Torbreck is the name of a forest near Inverness, Scotland and you’ll find more than a passing nod to the Celts in our wine naming conventions. The Laird of the Estate in Scotland is the Lord of the Manor and master of all he surveys.
Review:
I poured the 2017 The Laird, set it aside and got about doing other jobs for 45 minutes or so, to give it some room to breathe. And it does breathe. It has its own pulse and beat and life, and it flexes and moves in the mouth. This is incredibly enveloping, with aromas reminiscent of campfire coals, charred eucalyptus, lamb fat, roasted beetroot, black tea and a prowling sort of countenance. In the mouth, the wine is bonded and cohesive and seamless, there are no gaps between anything, no space between fruit, oak and tannin; it all comes as one. While this is a singular wine, it is so big and concentrated that it needs no accompaniment other than some fresh air and a good mate. It's denser than osmium and is impenetrable at this stage.
Bachelet Bertrand Maranges Rouge is made from 100 percent Pinot Noir.
The Maranges appellation is the youngest of the Côte de Beaune family, making its debut in May 1989. It spans three villages: Dezize-les-Maranges, Cheilly-les-Maranges and Sampigny-les-Maranges. Several hills and slopes make up this appellation, that are south/south-east-facing. This appellation produces mainly red wines comprising 95% of total production.
Bachelet Bertrand Maranges is produced from two villages, Aux Artaux and En Crevèches, both situated in the Cheilly-les-Maranges area.
The wine offers a deep red color with purplish highlights, a powerful nose with aromas of raspberries, blackcurrants, and small red candied fruits. A silky texture on the palate, complemented by delicate tannins and a lingering finish.
Pairs well with roasted meats, stews, and mature cheeses.