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Wine from Rotem & Mounir
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Burgundy meets the Rhone. An utter respect for tradition, and in some ways a total break. We’ve watched as Mounir and Rotem Saouma, of Burgundy producer Lucien Le Moine, slowly developed their estate and wines in Chateauneuf-du-Pape, and the results today are too extraordinary and distinct to ignore.
Let’s start at the beginning: 5 acres in Pignan. A sale was being conducted through the French state that presented the opportunity to buy a somewhat neglected parcel adjoining some oustanding plots (notably Rayas’ Bois de Rayas and the Pignan lieu dit). The Saoumas have long loved the area and its wines, have many friends, and saw they could potentially acquire land in a way that would not be possible in Burgundy.
The sheer vitality of these vines today is extraordinary. We know and love Mounir Saouma because of the way he transmits both unknown and acknowledged great crus of Burgundy through his elevage into masterpieces, but it turns out he may be an even more talented vineyard manager. Mounir’s philosophy is in theory straightforward. He has worked to improve drainage in his vineyards, works with organic manures, and doesn’t mind the low yields he is getting in his plots. As is the case with most things in life, simplicity appears only after deliberation and experience.
From this plot Mounir has been able to acquire additional vineyards, and today farms a total of 21 acres across 8 vineyards in all 5 villages of the appellation (Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Bedarrides, Sorgues, Courthezon and Orange). The kaleidiscope of the terroirs he works with is reflected in the cellar, as well, where a combination of barrels, foudres, cement, and eggs are used, all except the last of which can be considered “traditional” within the diversity of Chateauneuf’s viticultural history. The fruit is pressed firmly with small presses dating from the late 1970s, left in tank to macerate at relatively cool temperatures for 8 days, and then transferred to the various vessels. The wines are never punched down, never racked, and never sulfured until a light addition a month before bottling. They age for between 24-36 months, including the white, which as you might expect has an outsized focus here.
The wines are stunning: precise, intense, complex, expressive visions of Chateauneuf. They somehow speak to the past, but also to the present (and we would guess, the future), all in their own voice.
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The aging is as Mounir ages his Burgundies: extremely long, never racked, no fining, no filtration. It would be easy to say that we expected the experience running one of Burgundy’s leading producers, Lucien Le Moine, would show in Mounir’s wines. But the actual results need to be tasted to be believed and understood: a wine with beguiling fruit and savory richness, yet extraordinary finesse and detail.
Mounir Saouma likes to describe Châteauneuf-du-Pape as a mosaic, with all the wild traditions and differences together making for very different interpretations. Omnia, Latin for “all,” is his attempt to encompass the entire region’s terroir and winemaking history (and perhaps future) in one glass. The fruit comes from 9 vineyard parcels across all 5 of the Châteauneuf communes, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Courthezon, Sorgues, Bedarrides and Orange (in early vintages, when the Saoumas did not have all the vineyards they have today, they would purchase fruit; today, Rotem & Mounir Saouma is 100% Estate). The wine is then vinified and aged in foudres, cement and 500 liter barrels – a little bit of everything.
2019 was another warm and dry vintage in the southern Rhône, marked by insistent drought and repeated heat waves during the season. With little disease pressure or frost, the crop was close to normal size, but bunch and berry-size was reduced during the growing season by the lack of water. The grapes were thus concentrated and rich in sugar and acidity, although potential alcohol levels were often quite high. Vineyards at higher elevations – Châteauneuf du Pape and Gigondas in particular — handled the heat better, and the wines from those AOPs are rich yet also remarkably fresh and energetic. Despite the initial concerns about the growing season, 2019 looks to be a watershed vintage in the Southern Rhône, producing rich wines with exceptional concentration and aging potential
Inviting aromas of sliced strawberries, red cherries and rose. Full-bodied with vibrant acidity and succulent fruit. Fine, structured tannins are vertically aligned with the fruit. More dark-fruited than the nose lets on and entirely delicious. I love the subtle spice here.
-James Suckling 94 Points
Very refined, with silky and fine-grained structure carrying alluring bergamot, rooibos tea, incense, dried cherry and lightly mulled raspberry notes along. A long sanguine thread weaves through the finish. Hard to resist now with so much charm, but this will benefit from cellaring. Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre.
-Wine Spectator 94 Points
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Hickinbotham Brooks Road Shiraz is made from 100 percent Shiraz.
After the hand-picked Shiraz clusters were delivered from high country (210-230 meters) by Viticulturer Michael Lane, the winemaker destemmed and sorted the whole berries into open fermenters. The cold soak was four days, the skins plunged three times daily, and the minimum time on skins was eighteen days. The wine was then basket pressed; its free run and pressings kept separate. To minimize filtration at bottling, three rack-and-returns were conducted over fifteen months as the wine seasoned in a mixture of Burgundy-coopered barrels.
This Shiraz shows the characters this vineyard has displayed since the start, but perhaps in a more elegant, harmonious and balanced form. Its consistency is comforting and reassuring, buttressed by blue and black fruit notes throughout. It is readily enjoyable but has all the structure, acid and tannin to offer decades of rewards from cellaring.
Review:
A rich, succulent mix of dark chocolate, spiced plum, wild blackberry and black licorice notes. Showcases both power and elegance, with chai, cigar box, violets and dried sage notes, velvety and generous, on the long, generous finish. Drink now through 2035. 1,900 cases made, 370 cases imported
-Wine Spectator 95 Points
This Pinot Grigio is grown at the foot of the remains of what was once the stunning villa of the della Scala family, one of the most influencial families in Verona from the early 1200's to the late 1300's. The much admired ruler of Verona, Cangrande I della Scala, summered at this villa. Cangrande I was a great warrior, diplomatic prince and an important patron of the arts. He championed the works of Dante, Patrarch and Giotto. He created beautiful architecture throughout the city in the ornate, gothic style of his time. This label is a reproduction of the design taken from a fragment of the ornate and intricate art that once covered the ceilings of the villa. In Italian, Ornato means ornate or adorned. This label celebrates the beautiful, complex taste of the Della Scala family and the Gothic art of that period.
Color: Brilliant straw colored wine with golden reflections.
Bouquet: Fresh and floral bouquet with a hint of pears, apricots and bananas blended with the intense aroma of acacia flowers.
Taste: Fresh and inviting with bright fruit and an easy drinking style with a pleasing hint of almonds in the aftertaste.
Vineyard: Rich in limestone the soil is of alluvial origin. The vineyards are located in the province of Verona. The agricultre is sustainable. No chemical fertilizers, herbicides or pesticides are used. The vineyards are South facing at 300 meters above sea level.
Harvest: September – by hand. The grapes are picked as they ripen to keep the acidity high. The grapes are brought to the cellar and refrigerated within a half hour of picking to keep oxidation to a minimum.
The grapes are soft pressed and the juice is placed in stainless steel along with the skins for a brief maceration of 12 hours at 8-10° C. The must is then racked and lightly filtered. Fermentation then takes place with selected indigenous yeast under controlled temperatures. Of 16-18°C. The fermentation is slow and cool to emhance the natural aromas of the grapes. The finished wine is placed in stainless steel holding tanks until bottled.
Aging: 3-4 months in stainless steel.
Alcohol: 12%
Acidity: 5.30
Seafood dishes, risottos with scampi, spaghetti with clams, sole in white wine.
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