It is a rare phenomenon that a wine can trace its origins to a single man. Brunello di Montalcino, however, owes its existence to Ferruccio Biondi-Santi and its fame to his family. Now on the seventh generation of winemakers, the Biondi-Santi family continues to produce wines renowned for their elegance and extraordinary longevity. Located in the heart of Montalcino, the Tenuta Greppo estate spreads over 25 hectares of vines on soils rich in heavy stones and marl – perfect for the cultivation of Sangiovese Grosso. Defenders of a rich enological heritage, the family continues to employ traditional vinicultural methods started well over a century ago to highlight the wine’s unique characteristics, or tipicita.
Franco expanded Il Greppo from 4 acres to 25, but continued to be a staunch believer in traditional viniculture. Today, Franco’s son, Jacopo, and his son, Tancredi, represent the sixth and seventh generations carrying on the family legacy.
Starting in the mid-1800s, Clemente Santi, a renowned writer and scientist, recognized the quality of the vineyards and viticulture at Il Greppo. Long before it became standard practice, Clemente chose to focus on red wines suitable for aging, creating racking and barrel-aging practices far more advanced than his peers’. Clemente’s innovative winemaking earned him considerable recognition, including an award for his “select red wine (Brunello) 1865” at the 1867 Universal Exposition in Paris.
Following in the footsteps of his grandfather, Ferruccio Biondi continued to experiment in the vineyards. In fact, Ferruccio took such pride in the work his grandfather did, he united the two family names and became Ferruccio Biondi-Santi. Ferruccio worked diligently to combat the challenges posed by oidium and phylloxera. He used the work he had already begun on massal selection and identifying mother vines to his advantage, grafting only the best clones on American rootstock and replanting his vineyard with the offspring of the mother clones – propagating what would eventually become the Brunello Biondi-Santi, or BBS 11, clone. Ferruccio also made the bold decision to bottle a 100 percent Sangiovese wine, focusing, like Clemente did before him, on ageworthiness rather than quick profits. With this, the birth of modern-day Brunello di Montalcino began.
After Ferruccio’s death in 1917, his son Tancredi Biondi-Santi continued the line of succession and carried on the family tradition with meticulous care. He looked to the past to secure the future, laying away older vintages in the cellar. He even made the crucial call to secretly wall-up part of his cellar prior to World War II, concealing the oldest Riservas from the Front. In doing so, Biondi-Santi was eventually able to show the world how long-lived and complex Brunello could be. In 1966, Brunello di Montalcino became a DOC and the Italian government turned to Tancredi to assist in writing the regulations.
Tancredi brought the winery to new heights, but it was his son Franco who helped show the world what they could do. Franco traveled far and wide, promoting the wines and showing the power of the old Riservas. The reputation of the wines was only boosted in 1980 when Brunello di Montalcino became the first DOCG in Italy.
Vineyards:
Located just two miles from the town of Montalcino, Il Greppo sits on a 47-hectare parcel of land. The oldest vines on the property are over 80 years old, dating back to 1930. In 1988, Franco Biondi-Santi started an enormous undertaking in the vineyard, eventually increasing plantings from 4 to 25 hectares. He planted the vines on steep terraces, using the natural contour of the hills to create an amphitheater, setting Il Greppo’s cellar at center stage. The soils, rich in a stony marl known locally as galestro, are ideal for the cultivation of Sangiovese Grosso. Dry, warmer weather typically leads to a September harvest. Noted diurnal shifts ensure the characteristic aromas and acid levels that lead to the expressive, long-aging Brunellos typical of the estate.
Thanks to the meticulous cultivation and clonal selection of the different generations, the Brunello Biondi-Santi, or BBS11, became an officially recognized and registered clone – the first to be named after a single producer.
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Louis Roederer Cristal Vinotheque Edition Brut Millesime 1997 is made from Pinot noir (62%) and Chardonnay (38%).
Color
A bright and shimmering golden color, animated by an ultra-fine and swirling effervescence.
Nose
The bouquet is pure, precise and complex, mixing aromas of white flowers, almond, honey and nougat. Upon aeration, notes of red fruits and smoke are revealed, followed by warm and caramelized nuances reminiscent of macaroon, baked apples and tarte tatin.
Palate
Indulgent and velvety, the palate is rich while maintaining a great freshness thanks to a delicate effervescence. The flavors of candied Corsican citron stretch out on a finish marked by a chalky, powdery and iodized freshness, offering a dense texture and a serene length.
The property
Founded in 1776 in Reims, the Louis Roederer Champagne House has remained family-owned and independent. After more than 200 years of existence, the Louis Roederer House is still in the hands of the same family. Today led by Frédéric Rouzaud, who represents the seventh generation of the lineage, the Louis Roederer House embodies the excellence of Champagne wines around the world thanks to cuvées crafted like a work of art.
The vineyard
With nearly 241 hectares of vines, the Louis Roederer House draws its strength from its extraordinary vineyard, composed only of Grands and Premiers Crus in the Marne Valley, the Montagne de Reims and the Côte des Blancs. A true mosaic of terroirs, the Louis Roederer House's vineyard is divided into 410 plots that reflect all the diversity of the Champagne soils.
The wine
Cristal Vinothèque 1997 is made from three great vineyards known as "La Rivière", "La Montagne" and "La Côte".
The vintage
The spring of 1997, mild at first, was marked by an early bud break followed by severe frosts in April that damaged the vineyards of Verzenay and Verzy. After an early flowering in June, the rainy and cold weather until August favored the development of mildew and rot. Fortunately, the return of warm and sunny weather in August and September saved the vintage, with harvests taking place under radiant sunshine from September 15 to October 1.
Vinification and aging
Vinification is carried out in wood to the extent of 6%. Malolactic fermentation (16%). The cuvée was aged for 15 years on lees, 5 years on points and benefited from a rest of 4 years after disgorging. The dosage of this 1997 vintage champagne is 8 g/liter.
Review:
Intense nose of preserved lemons, salted yellow plums, walnuts, toast, salted caramel, roasted chestnuts and dried pineapple. Beautiful and complex, from 15 years, 5 years en pointe, before disgorgement in 2018. Delicious, salty toffee character. Soft, silky bubbles. Long and powerful. Thought-provoking. Unique. Will be launched in September 2022. Drink on release or hold.
-James Suckling 99 Points
A deep powerful Gran Reserva from one of Rioja Alavesa’s most enduring family run wineries. The hillside terraced vineyards are sheltered by the Sierra Cantabria Mountains to the north from harsh weather extremes. Small plot production is utilized in this region of infertile chalky clay soil to produce clusters of excellent quality. Almost 900 plots are needed to complete the approximately 400 hectares of estate-owned or cellar-controlled vineyards, some with vines more than 100 years in age.
Tasting notes
Ruby red color with earthy tones. The wine shows finesse, elegance and complexity with good concentration of black fruit, thyme and rosemary with secondary aromas of leather and tobacco leaves. In the palate it is polished and rounded, making it pleasant and easy to drink. Fleshy with both elegance and power. It has touches of black fruit jam and liquorice. A long, delicious and persistent finish.
Suitable for pairing with a long, copious meal where it can accommodate braised vegetables, cold cuts, peppers stuffed with hake and shrimp, mushroom omelettes, cod Rioja style, both red and white meat... and so on.