Romain-Bertrand de Lur-Saluces, Françoise-Joséphine's grandson, took his role as manager of Yquem very much to heart, rather than simply taking possession of the family estate, which had become mythical by this time. In 1855, in posthumous recognition of the tremendous accomplishments of "the lady of Yquem", the estate was designated the one and only premier cru supérieur in the famous classification made at the request of Emperor Napoléon III.
Yquem went through a long period of prosperity in the latter half of the 19th century. People all over Europe went to great lengths to search out the wine. Great Duke Constantine, brother of the Tsar of Russia, made the headlines by paying 20,000 gold francs for a barrel of Château d’Yquem – an unheard of price at the time. Japan, which opened up to foreign trade during the Meiji dynasty, also discovered the pleasures of Yquem. After Romain-Bertrand's death, his son, Marquis Amédée de Lur-Saluces, took over, followed by his younger brother, Eugène. This phase of Yquem's history ended with two dramatic events: the phylloxéra crisis and the First World War. In 1914, Yquem played a role in the war. The château was transformed into a military hospital while Marquis Bertrand de Lur-Saluces, son of Eugène, became an officer in the trenches, in keeping with the family tradition. At the end of the war, at age 30, he took over managing the estate and continued in this capacity for a momentous half-century. Bertrand was a man of character and a staunch guardian of the Yquem philosophy. He was opposed to chaptalisation and courageously defended the family estates, even during the dire recession of the 1930s. President of the Union des Crus Classés de la Gironde for forty years, he was instrumental in determining many legal aspects of the Sauternes appellation. He was also one of the leading proponents of château bottling to guarantee authenticity. An enlisted officer in the Second World War, Bertrand de Lur-Saluces was captured and held prisoner for two years. However, he was fortunate enough to return to his beloved estate as soon as he was freed. He did much to develop Château d'Yquem, particularly as regards its international impact, until his death in 1968.
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Quinta do Vesuvio Single Quinta Vintage Port is made from 33% Touriga Nacional, 35% Touriga Franca, 15% Sousão, 12% Alicante Bouschet, 5% Other.
This is a powerful, attention-grabbing wine, with taut muscularity. It offers magnificent aromas of rockrose, mint and hints of ginger. The substantial palate is full with expressive black fruit notes lifted by peppery schist tannins (the seasoning provided by the Sousão). The long, lingering aftertaste indicates impressive ageing potential.
Review:
Deep dark ruby garnet, opaque core, violet reflections, delicate edge brightening. Delicate smoky spice, fine nougat, black berries, ripe figs, candied orange zest. Juicy, elegant, fine extract sweetness, ripe tannins, pleasant freshness, chocolaty in the finish, mineral and long-lasting, extremely elegant style, a large Vesuvio, has class.
-Falstaff 99 Points
The 2017 Vintage Port is a blend of 33% Touriga Nacional, 35% Touriga Franca, 15% Sousão and 12% Alicante Bouschet, plus miscellaneous others filling out the blend. This was bottled about a month before tasting after 18 months in seasoned vats, but the just-bottled sample was not really ready. This was instead a pre-bottling sample. It comes in with 115 grams of residual sugar.
- Wine Advocate 99 Points
La Despensa Boutique Pool Blend 75% Cinsault, 15% Pais, 5% Marsanne and 5% Roussanne.
A genuinely unique wine - La Despensa is the only producer of Cinsault in Colchagua and Pais from this valley is also extremely rare! The Cinsault and the 2 whites come from a new vineyard planted in 2017 and the Pais from a 150 year old, dry-farmed vineyard in Pumanque about 20 minutes from the winery that they run themselves organically. The Cinsault and Pais give notes of raspberry and strawberry and the white Roussanne and Marsanne a little mouthfeel and a hint of tropical fruit.
Organically grown grapes (not certified) from our own vineyard in Santa Ana, and Pumanque in the Colchagua Valley. Irrigated as sparingly as possible via drip irrigation (dry-farming for the 150 year old Pais). Hand harvested and sorted personally by me in the vineyard (I personally check every single bunch), then destemmed with the crusher removed from the destemmer. Grapes are fermented in open top bins and concrete tank and blended immediately after pressing. MLF occurs with the wine already blended. Wines are racked in November and again in January before being bottled after about 10 months ageing in 50% neutral oak barrels and 50% Flextank.
Versatile, goes well with beef, chicken, pasta, great for Summer BBQs.