Dewazakura Brewing Company
Many sake enthusiasts are surprised to learn that twenty-five years ago ginjo labels were hard to find in Japan. In those days, people were still drinking the cloyingly sweet sakes the breweries had been churning out since the ’50s; no one thought that customers would actually pay more for the quality ginjo and daiginjo sakes brewed in limited amounts for competitions.
In 1981, Dewazakura Brewing Company changed that with the release of "Oka," an affordably priced ginjo label with a polishing ratio of 50 percent and a lovely floral aroma. It was light, crisp and delightful. It was made to be drunk cold. Soon other breweries introduced their own ginjo labels. And so began one of the most creative periods in the history of sake, earning for Dewazakura the admiration and respect of even its most ardent competitors.
What made the brewery stand out was a drive for innovation. Dewazakura was not a wealthy brewery, or a long-established one, but they were open to change. When the opportunity arose in the years after the war to invite research technicians in from the National Research Institute of Brewing, they jumped at the chance. Drawing on the knowledge and skill of Hideo Abe, a former Institute research advisor, they put new ideas into practice without hesitation.
By 1991, Dewazakura had perfected its cold storage technique, aging freshly pressed sake at 28 degrees Fahrenheit to keep it as aromatic and flavorful as possible until bottling. In 1996 it introduced "Dewasansan," brewed from a new Yamagata rice strain of the same name, another hit which opened the way for other prefectures to introduce highly specific regional labels. This year, for the first time in history, Yamagata breweries received more gold medals than any other prefecture at the 2004 Japan National Sake Appraisal, an achievement due in no small measure to the pioneering efforts of the Dewazakura Brewing Company.
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Domaine Jean Grivot Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru is made from 100 percent Pinot Noir.
Domaine Jean Grivot is among the great names in Burgundian wine. Étienne Grivot and his wife Marielle took over from Étienne’s father Jean Grivot in 1987. The vineyards are densely planted and farmed organically “sans certification” while the aim in the cellar is for balance and clear expression of terroir.
Jean Grivot’s 38.3 acres spread across 22 appellations with vineyards in the communes of Vosne-Romanée, Vougeot, Chambolle-Musigny, and Nuits-Saint-Georges. Besides the three grand crus, there are 8 premier crus including the much lauded Les Beaux Monts and Suchots in Vosne-Romanée. The grapes are completely de-stemmed and fermentation is spontaneous.
About the Vineyard:
Clos de Vougeot grand cru was acquired by Étienne’s grandfather, Gaston Grivot, in 1919. The total holding is 4.6 acres from the middle of the vineyard to the lower wall and the average vine age is 40 years old. A good Clos de Vougeot should be a complete wine without any one feature standing out. It is a perfect balance of power, aroma, and flavor.
Wine Production:
The grapes are destemmed and maceration à froid usually lasts just a day or two. The alcoholic fermentation is spontaneous and malolactic fermentation occurs in barrel. Depending on the vintage, the proportion of new oak is around 40-70% percent for the grands crus.
Tasting Notes:
The wine shows aromas and flavors of red berries, herbs, and purple flowers. The palate is rich with ripe fruit and medium weight with bright acidity and fine tannins. Aging in 40-70% new Burgundian pièce brings notes of vanilla, toast, and baking spices.
Food Pairing:
Red Burgundy might be the world’s most flexible food wine. The wine’s high acidity, medium body, medium alcohol, and low tannins make it very food-friendly. Red Burgundy, with its earthy and sometimes gamey character, is a classic partner to roasted game birds, grilled duck breast, and dishes that feature mushrooms, black truffles, or are rich in umami.
Review:
This round version is packed with ripe black cherry, violet, graphite and tobacco flavors. The silky texture and vibrant acidity work in tandem, while refined tannins provide support without getting in the way. There are a few edges to be worked out, yet this is long and concentrated.
-Wine Spectator 95 Points
Bastgen Berncastel-Cueser Weisenstein Riesling Spatlese Trocken is made from 100 percent Riesling.
Bright, clean, fresh and zesty. Grapefruit like flavors. Fruity aromas and a nice minerality, typical of the Riesling grape grown on blue slate soil. Round, rich and a very long finish. The grapes for this wine are vigorously selected. Botrytis is not tolerated. At harvest the grapes are fully ripened, have a golden color, and a soft tartness. After a long spontaneous fermentation in a traditional 1000L barrel, the wine just reaches the dry stage. This gives the wine a creamy structure that interplays with ripe yellow and exotic fruit aromas.
They meticulously tend 4.5 ha (11.11 acres) of which 80% is Riesling. The soil is made of slate. Their vineyards are located in Kesten and Brauneberg, on a steep terrace, and planted to 50-year old vines. Fortunately for Bastgen, they own part of the famous Brauneberger Juffer Sonnenuhr. The vines produce very small, ripe berries that are very tasty.
Review:
"This dry Mosel riesling is GG in all but name! Complex nose of white peach and red-fleshed vineyard peach with herb garden notes. Very elegant and polished this glides over your palate, the precision of flavor on the medium-bodied palate is very impressive. Then comes the wet stone and red berry finish that doesn’t want to stop. From organically grown grapes. Drink or hold."
- James Suckling (November 2023), 95 pts