Franz Prager, co-founder of the Vinea Wachau, had already earned a reputation for his wines when Toni Bodenstein married into the family. Bodenstein’s passion for biodiversity and old terraces, coupled with brilliant winemaking, places Prager in the highest echelon of Austrian producers.
Smaragd is a designation of ripeness for dry wines used exclusively by members of the Vinea Wachau. The wines must have minimum alcohol of 12.5%. The grapes are hand-harvested, typically in October and November, and are sent directly to press where they spontaneously ferment in stainless-steel tanks.
Zwerithaler is a sub-site of Buschenberg and sits to the east of Weißenkirchen. The name Zwerithaler, meaning "nestled between the valleys," is a near monopole of Weingut Prager. It has a complex soil of paragneiss with alternating layers of dark and calcareous rock. Zwerithaler Kammergut is a 0.34-hectare parcel planted before WWI. The wine from these ungrafted, 100-year-old vines was bottled separately by Prager for the first time in 2015.
Light greenish yellow, silver reflections. Fine savory, delicate nuances of anise, tobacco notes, delicate yellow fruit, a touch of mango and honey blossom. Full-bodied, juicy white apple fruit, well-integrated, silky acidity structure, finesse and long persistence, saline finish, lingers for minutes, Veltliner at its best.
-Falstaff 99 Points
"The aromas of this old-vine gruner veltliner leap out and shake you to the core. Full-bodied and full of weighty and balanced layers of papayas, mangoes, nectarines, chives, white tea and oranges. Fantastic concentration, giving so much pleasure already, but it will keep blossoming if you give it time. From vines planted in 1907. Sustainable. Drink or hold."
-James Suckling 98 Points
The sage, autumnal older sister to the spring verve of the Juvenile, Old Vines encompasses everything we stand for at Turley. Teeming with dark berries, currants, baking spices, earth, and a sprinkle of petrichor on the nose. The palate is brooding yet supple, serious yet satisfying. Inherently embodies the depth, complexity, and grace that can only come from old vines.
Review:
As with the Juvenile bottling, the 2022 Zinfandel Old Vines punches above its weight in this vintage. The nose is considerably deeper, fuller and more polished, opening with aromas of crushed plums, wild berry preserves, tobacco leaves and similar autumnal accents to its younger sibling. The palate is light- to medium-bodied, carrying through the polished quality of the nose and melds it with a subtly dusty tannin structure and bright acidity. The finish is straightforward and easy to drink, offering generous layers of fruit, spice and floral notes.
- Robert Parker's Wine Advocate 92 Points
A gutsy little red, with intense yet zesty flavors of raspberry, cranberry, savory anise and black pepper that finish with briary tannins.
Wine Spectator 92 Points