France is the largest wine producing country in the world. The history of French wine traces back to Roman times. French wine is controlled by the AOC system, Appellation d'Origine Controlee. This system guides as to what grapes are allowed to be grown in each region. The system was created using hundreds of years of growing history and the use of terroir. Terrior is a French wine term that encapsulates all the variables that apply to a wine's tastes…such as soil, climate, and the area the grape is grown.
France is home to many grapes that have now been cloned throughout the world. Not only have France's grapes been replicated, but so have their wine making styles. Even though they are the strongest player in the wine producing world, they now have competition from the new world wine producing countries.
Clos Saint-Jean is a 41-hectare estate in Châteauneuf-du-Pape run by brothers Vincent and Pascal Maurel. Considered by many critics and wine-writers as the preeminent estate espousing the modern style of winemaking in Châteauneuf, this cellar is one of the oldest in the region, having been founded in 1900 by the greatgreat-grandfather of Vincent and Pascal, Edmund Tacussel. A short time after its founding and well before the AOP of Chateauneuf-du-Pape was created in 1923, Edmund began bottling estate wines in 1910.
The farming at Clos Saint-Jean is fully sustainable due to the warm and dry climate, which prevents the need for chemical inputs. Instead, Vincent and Pascal employ organic methods for pest control, mainly pheromones, to prevent pests from taking up residence in their vines, a process called amusingly enough in French, confusion sexuelle. The vines tended manually, and harvest is conducted in several passes entirely by hand.
Deus ex Machina is a literary and dramatic term for a miraculous intervention that interrupts a logical course of events in a plot or play. A suitable name for a cuvée that had it’s start in the torrid vintage of 2003 when Philippe Cambie and Vincent Maurel made the decision to harvest at the end of September, weeks after their neighbors. Deus ex Machina is a blend of old vine Grenache from La Crau, aged in tank with equally ancient Mourvedre from the sandy soils of BoisDauphin aged in demi-muid. Deus ex Machina is only made in the best vintages.
Review:
Lastly, the 2022 Châteauneuf Du Pape Deus-Ex Machina shows a similar profile to the Combes des Fous, yet it brings another level of tannins and concentration. Kirsch liqueur, white flowers, sandalwood, cured meats, and graphite notes all shine here, and it's full-bodied, has a deep, layered, powerful, yet weightless profile, lots of ripe tannins, and a blockbuster of a finish. This ripe, sexy, seamless, incredibly impressive beauty will compete with anything in the vintage. As usual, this cuvée is 60% Grenache and 40% Mourvedre, which is brought up in roughly 40% new demi-muids.
Review: Jeb Dunnuck 97 Points
Corinne Perchaud Chablis 1er Cru Fourchaume is made from 100 percent Chardonnay
Elegant citrus aromas. Concentrated and finessed, combining flavors of dried fruit with slight hints of woody notes. Perfect balance between body and acidity, long and persistent finish. This one is drinking great now, but as with all exceptional Chablis, it is possible to pay it down for years to come.
Made from 35 year old vines. The owners take great care to produce exceptional Chablis wine by keeping the lively Chardonnay fruit and the unique mineral quality imparted by the Kimmeridgian soil, the fruity acidity and bouquet in perfect balance. The grapes are harvested by hand and gently pressed in a horizontal pressoir to ensure the fullest extraction and range of flavors and aromas.
Pair with Scallops Jacques cream, roast veal with oyster mushrooms.
Corinne Perchaud Chablis is 100 percent Chardonnay.
A classic Chablis with aromas of ripe white fruits and a taste of rich minerals.
The Vineyards The plots are in Chablis located predominantly on the village of Fleys, but also on the common Chichée and Fontenay, their total area is 13 hectares. They are mostly north and north-west oriented. The ground floor is Kimmeridgian marl consisting clay and limestone. The oldest of of the vines is 35 years. Winemaking After a slight settling, the juice is put in stainless tanks to achieve its fermentation both alcoholic and malolactic. Ther is a long aging on lees to refine the flavors and develop complex flavors. If necessary, we make a collage of Bentonite to remove proteins and a passing cold which eliminates tartar crystals. Then we perform a tangential filtration method friendly to the wine. The wine is bottles between 14 and 21 months after the harvest.
Pairs well with Oysters or shellfish and Sole Meunière.
Corinne Perchaud Chablis (half-bottle) is 100 percent Chardonnay.
A classic Chablis with aromas of ripe white fruits and a taste of rich minerals.
The Vineyards The plots are in Chablis located predominantly on the village of Fleys, but also on the common Chichée and Fontenay, their total area is 13 hectares. They are mostly north and north-west oriented. The ground floor is Kimmeridgian marl consisting clay and limestone. The oldest of of the vines is 35 years. Winemaking After a slight settling, the juice is put in stainless tanks to achieve its fermentation both alcoholic and malolactic. There is a long aging on lees to refine the flavors and develop complex flavors. If necessary, we make a collage of Bentonite to remove proteins and a passing cold which eliminates tartar crystals. Then we perform a tangential filtration method friendly to the wine. The wine is bottles between 14 and 21 months after the harvest. 2011 Vintage The relatively high temperatures at the end of winter allowed an early bud vines in early March. With a hot, dry spring flower took place in good conditions. In July, a hailstorm located did some damage to our Fourchaume plot. July and early August, rainy and stormy brought the water needed vineyards. The dry and sunny weather of the second half of August brought the grape good maturity. The harvest began on September 2 under clement skies.
Corinne Perchaud Chablis 1er Cru Fourchaume is made from 100 percent Chardonnay
Elegant citrus aromas. Concentrated and finessed, combining flavors of dried fruit with slight hints of woody notes. Perfect balance between body and acidity, long and persistent finish. This one is drinking great now, but as with all exceptional Chablis, it is possible to pay it down for years to come.
Made from 35 year old vines. The owners take great care to produce exceptional Chablis wine by keeping the lively Chardonnay fruit and the unique mineral quality imparted by the Kimmeridgian soil, the fruity acidity and bouquet in perfect balance. The grapes are harvested by hand and gently pressed in a horizontal pressoir to ensure the fullest extraction and range of flavors and aromas.
Pair with Scallops Jacques cream, roast veal with oyster mushrooms.
Perchaud Chablis Premier Cru Fourneaux is made from 100 percent Chardonnay.
This is the south facing portion of the slope and very hot, heavy "Fourneaux" or "oven" effect.
The wine is expressive and vivacious with beautiful aromas.
Well-balanced, round and fruity wine with a fine minerality on the finish.
1er Cru Fourneaux is located on the Fleys village and faces the field. the plots are very steep and exposed full south on soil type Kimmeridgian consists of marl clay-limestone with shallow ground and a very stony ground. After a slight settling, the juice starts its fermentation in tank, then ¼ of juice is racked in barrels. Both wines perform their alcoholic fermentation and malolactic and their aging on the lees, separately. The two cuvées are blended six months after harvesting. The wine is then filtered and is bottled 15 months after harvesting. 2013 Conditions and Harvest The relatively high temperatures at the end of winter allowed an early bud vines in early March. With a hot, dry spring flower took place in good conditions. In July, a hailstorm located did some damage to our Fourchaume plot. July and early August, rainy and stormy brought the water needed by the vineyards. The dry and sunny weather of the second half of August brought the grapes to maturity. The harvest began on September 2 under cloudy skies.
Coquille St. Jacques (scallops) with leeks and cream.
Weingut Prager Stockkultur Achleiten Gruner Veltliner Smaragd is made from 100 percent Gruner Veltliner.
Franz Prager, co-founder of the Vinea Wachau, had already earned a reputation for his wines when Toni Bodenstein married into the family. Bodenstein’s passion for biodiversity and old terraces, coupled with brilliant winemaking, places Prager in the highest echelon of Austrian producers.
Smaragd is a designation of ripeness for dry wines used exclusively by members of the Vinea Wachau. The wines must have minimum alcohol of 12.5%. The grapes are hand-harvested, typically in October and November, and are sent directly to press where they spontaneously ferment in stainless-steel tanks.
Stockkultur is a 0.3-hectare plot at the top of Achleiten and was purchased by Toni Bodenstein in 2005. The name refers to the old style of training each vine to a single stake; the traditional method of vine cultivation in the Wachau before the 1950s. The vines planted in 1938 are among the oldest in the Wachau.
Tasting Notes:
Prager’s stylistic signature is that of aromatic complexity coupled with power and tension. High-density planting and long hang times ensure ripe fruit flavors and concentration, yet allowing leaves to shade the fruit lend vibrant aromatics of grasses, herbs, and wildflowers. Minerality is a constant feature of any Prager wine.
Food Pairing:
With minimum alcohol of 12.5%, Grüner Veltliner Smaragd is a concentrated and full-bodied dry white wine. Its intensity of flavor and ripeness of fruit make it ideal with high-integrity ingredients such as seared white fish or sautéed spring vegetables. Grüner Veltliner is a classic accompaniment to Wiener Schnitzel.
Review:
From vines planted in 1937 and picked as the first of the Smaragd wines, the 2020 Ried Achleiten Grüner Veltliner Smaragd Stockkultur (planted with 15,000 vines per hectare) opens with a spectacular deep and complex but refined, fresh and flinty bouquet with intense, ripe pear and biscuit aromas. On the palate, this is a dense and lush yet pure, elegant and complex, wide and powerful but also mineral Achleiten with a long, finely tannic and still sweet finish (due to more than 30 grams per liter of dry extract). Tasted at the domaine in June 2021.
At Prager, I could not determine that 2020 would be inferior to the 2019 vintage; on the contrary, the 2020 Smaragd wines fascinated me enormously in their clear, cool, terroir-tinged way. A 38% loss had occurred mainly because of the hail on August 22, although predominantly in the Federspiel or Riesling vineyards. There was no damage in the top vineyards such as Ried Klaus, Achleiten or Zwerithaler. "Interestingly, the vines are in agony for about two weeks after the hail. There was no more growth, no development of ripeness and sugar," reports Toni Bondenstein. The Veltliner then recovered earlier, while even picking a Riesling Federspiel in October was still a struggle. "Why Riesling reacted more intensively to the hail, I don't know myself either," says Bodenstein. Whole clusters were pressed to preserve acidity and to compensate for the lower extract, and compared to 2019, the 2020s were left on their lees longer. In June, however, the 20s in particular showed outstanding early shape.
-Wine Advocate 96 Points
SALE!
Morambro Creek Cabernet is 100 percent Cabernet
Deep purple in color. A rich elegant nose of cassis with overtones of vanilla and coffee. Lush, ripe palate dominated by black fruits, cherry and chocolate. Full bodied with savory, integrated fruit tannins and persistent finish.
Winemaking at Morambro Creek is very traditional and labour intensive. Oak maturation takes place using 35% new French barrels. This blend was put together using select barrels from our family estate that best demonstrate the intensity of our fruit balanced by integrated oak.
Total Acidity: 6.6 g/L
pH: 3.49