The Giacomo Fenocchio Estate
The Fenocchio estate was founded in 1864. For over five generations, with its twelve hectares (thirty acres) of vineyards in the heart of the Barolo production zone, it produces and ages important wines, following in the footsteps of traditions handed down from father to son. In the post-war period, new energy was given to the estate’s work by Giacomo Fenocchio, who began to acquire new vineyard land.
Before the Second World War, the wine was sold principally in local markets: either in bulk or in demijohns, Larger ambitions began only in the early 1960’s, with an eye to foreign markets as well.
Today the sons of Giacomo Fenocchio – Claudio, Albino, and Alberto – export close to eighty per cent of their production, thereby creating a name and reputation for the family and a territory as well as for their wines.
The Giacomo Fenocchio Vineyard
All of the Fenocchio wines are made from the grapes of the estate’s proprietary vineyards located in three different townships: the Bussia in Monforte d’Alba; Villero sub-zone of Castiglione Falletto; and Cannubi in Barolo. All are “grand cru” vineyards and have always been recognized as such for the special microclimates which give them the potential to produce wines of exceptional character and personality and an aristocratic structure. The different characteristics of the soil and, in particular, of the sub-soils of these three subzones give wines which are notably different from one another. The microclimates and the excellent exposures (southeast and southwest) create highly favorable conditions for the ripening of the grapes and create as well special bio-chemical characteristics which produce the outstanding aromas and flavors of the wines made from these grapes.
BUSSIA IN MONFORTE D’ALBA
The soils are of Helvetian origin: compact clay and limestone marls along with tuff in Bussia di Monforte.
CASTIGLIONE FALLETTO – THE VILLERO VINEYARD
Approximately twelve kilometers (seven miles) from Alba, the town of Castiglione Falletto dominates the hillside ridge which runs through the central part of the Barolo appellation. Soils are of Helvetian origin with clay and limestone deposits rich in iron.
THE CANNUBI SUB-ZONE OF BAROLO
Historically eminent among the vineyards and sub-zones with the highest potential for fine Barolo: the oldest bottle of the Langhe district is conserved in the city of Bra and bears the inscription “Cannubi 1752”: the Cannubi name has always been a seal of honor and a true, universally recognized guarantee. Soils are of Tortonian origin, marls and tuff together with a significant presence of sand in the Cannubi vineyard in the township of Barolo, which maintains a soft and dry texture in the soil.
Fenocchio DOC Barbera d'Alba Superiore Bussia is made from 100 percent Barbera.
The color is a deep ruby red with garnet reflections. It has a rather intense bouquet, with scents typical of the vine and a full bodied and dry flavor, with a distinct and pleasing acidity. It becomes mature with aging, acquiring a full and balanced flavor.
Parcel is 2.5 hectares (6.2 acres) planted at 300 meters above sea level.
It pairs well with red and white meats, tagliatelle pasta and cheeses.
Fenocchio DOC Nebbiolo Langhe Bussia is made from 100 percent Nebbiolo.
The color is a deep ruby red with garnet reflections and an intense and fruity bouquet of plum and cherry. The flavor is dry with good body, well balanced tannins and harmonious with hints of licorice and rose.
Parcel is 2 hectares (5 acres) planted at 300 meters above sea level.
Pairing well with all types of food, from appetizers to cheeses with red and white meat.
Fenocchio DOCG Bussia Barolo is made from 100 percent Nebbiolo
The color is deep garnet red and the bouquet is fine and pleasing, with intense scents of spiced rose and licorice. The flavor is dry, warm, full bodied and balanced with pronounced tannins and a persistent aftertaste. A wine particularly adapted for aging.
Traditional method of long maceration: natural fermentation without added yeasts for 30 days in stainless steel tanks.
The Barolo Bussia, with its structure and body characteristics, pairs well with dishes of meat, game and aged cheeses, typical dishes of the local cuisine, as well as with many rich international dishes.
Review:
" Pleasant dried-cherry aromas, colored with nutty spice and dried leaves. Full-to medium-bodied with fine, firm and velvety tannins and a long finish of candied-cherry and chocolate. Give it a few years to meld together better. Best from 2025."
- James Suckling (January 2022), 93 pts
Weingut Prager Achleiten Riesling Smaragd is made from 100 percent Riesling.
Franz Prager, co-founder of the Vinea Wachau, had already earned a reputation for his wines when Toni Bodenstein married into the family. Bodenstein’s passion for biodiversity and old terraces, coupled with brilliant winemaking, places Prager in the highest echelon of Austrian producers.
Smaragd is a designation of ripeness for dry wines used exclusively by members of the Vinea Wachau. The wines must have a minimum alcohol of 12.5%. The grapes are hand-harvested, typically in October and November, and are sent directly to press where they spontaneously ferment in stainless-steel tanks.
Achleiten sits east of Weißenkirchen and is one of the most famous vineyards in the Wachau. The steeply-terraced vineyard existed in Roman times. Some sections have just 40 cm of topsoil over the bedrock of Gföler Gneiss, amphibolitic stone, and slate. “Destroyed soil,” as Toni Bodenstein likes to say.
Tasting Notes:
Austrian Riesling is often defined by elevated levels of dry extract thanks to a lengthy ripening period and freshness due to dramatic temperature swings between day and night. Wines from Achleiten’s highly complex soils are famously marked by a mineral note of flint or gun smoke, are intensely flavored, and reliably long-lived.
Food Pairing:
Riesling’s high acidity makes it one of the most versatile wines at the table. Riesling can be used to cut the fattiness of foods such as pork or sausages and can tame some saltiness. Conversely, it can highlight foods such as fish or vegetables in the same way a squeeze of lemon or a vinaigrette might.
Review:
The 2020 Ried Achleiten Riesling Smaragd offers a well-concentrated, fleshy and spicy stone fruit aroma with crunchy and flinty notes. It needs some time to get rid of the stewed fruit flavors, though. Full-bodied, fresh and crystalline, this is an elegant, complex and finely tannic Riesling that needs some years rather than a carafe to polymerize the tannins and gain some finesse. Tasted at the domain in June 2021.
At Prager, I could not determine that 2020 would be inferior to the 2019 vintage; on the contrary, the 2020 Smaragd wines fascinated me enormously in their clear, cool, terroir-tinged way. A 38% loss had occurred mainly because of the hail on August 22, although predominantly in the Federspiel or Riesling vineyards. There was no damage in the top vineyards such as Ried Klaus, Achleiten or Zwerithaler. "Interestingly, the vines are in agony for about two weeks after the hail. There was no more growth, no development of ripeness and sugar," reports Toni Bondenstein. The Veltliner then recovered earlier, while even picking a Riesling Federspiel in October was still a struggle. "Why Riesling reacted more intensively to the hail, I don't know myself either," says Bodenstein. Whole clusters were pressed to preserve acidity and to compensate for the lower extract, and compared to 2019, the 2020s were left on their lees longer. In June, however, the 20s in particular showed outstanding early shape.
-Wine Advocate 94 Points
Light yellow-green, silver reflections. Yellow stone fruit nuances with a mineral underlay, notes of peach and mango, a hint of tangerine zest, mineral touch. Juicy, elegant, white fruit, acidity structure rich in finesse, lemony-salty finish, sure aging potential.
-Falstaff 95 Points
Finca La Pared Syrah is made from 100 percent Syrah.
Finca La Pared Syrah shows an expressive nose of dark fruit aromas and a mineral character.
Intense, direct, playful. Balance of forces.
Machine harvested at night. Grapes with great concentration. Prefermentation cold maceration (cold soak) for three days. Fermentation and maceration are carried out in small stainless steel tanks, combining pumpovers and délestages The process is prolonged for approximately 20 days with gentle extractions. We gently press the grapes and the wine carries out its malolactic fermentation in even smaller stainless steel tanks. When the wine has naturally lost the thickest suspended solids, we transfer it to oak barrels. We chose American oak barrels that enhance the freshness of the wine and its refinement. The wine is aged for 12 months in the same barrels without racking. It isbottled after light filtration without fining.
Review:
"Blackberries, ground pepper, violets, and some gamey, bouquet garni-like notes all emerge from the 2021 Syrah, a medium to full-bodied, deep, rich, wonderfully layered Syrah that seems to be a hypothetical blend of a California Syrah with an Hermitage. Drink bottles through 2031."
- Jeb Dunnuck (Importer Highlight: Fran Kysela ; July 2024), 95 pts