
The Gourt de Mautens Jerome Bressy Estate
Gourt de Mautens is a family owned winery located in Rasteau that started in 1996. In 1998, Jerome Bressy took over the 13 hectares of vineyard and for him it was a dream come true. Next the winery and the ageing cellar were built.
This is the insider’s wine of the Southern Rhone. Many winemakers in the Rhone Valley, Christophe Delorme (Domaine de la Mordoree) included, feel that Jerome Bressy will be making the best wines in the entire Southern Rhone Valley in the future.
Jerome chose the options of small yields (8-15 hectoliters/hectare) and organic farming (now controlled by Ecocert) along with the use of homeopathy, which he considers essential conditions for making a great wine. Since 1989 they have not used any chemical fertilizers or pesticides on the vines, so the soil can give what it has to give in the most natural way. The yields have always been lower than average because of his father’s concern about grape quality. The estate took another step forward in the organic farming by becoming biodynamic in 2007.
The Domaine produces an average of 2,000 cases each year, red and white wine, both of equal quality (not quantity), from small different plots in Rasteau. These are homogeneous wines as each plot is farmed with the same concern for perfection, regardless of any difference in quality among them. The goal being to be at nature’s service, stepping in the process only when necessary.
The name of the Estate, "Gourt de Mautens", is the name of the area where part of the vineyard and the family farm are located. This name dates back to 1635. In provencal dialect "Gourt" means a place where the water flows from and "mautens" means bad weather. Thus, it is an area where water flows from chalky clay marly soil when it rains.
"This is one of the sensational estates in Rasteau, with proprietor Jerome Bressy farming just over 20 acres of vines. Organic farming and the naturally low yields of his old vines (8-15 hectoliters per hectare) result in wines of extraordinary concentration and intensity."
- Wine Advocate (Issue 175, Feb. 08),
The Gourt de Mautens Jerome Bressy Vineyard
The vineyard measures 13 hectares (32 acres) and is made of several parcels planted on terraces, hillsides, banks and plateaux with a northwestern and southwestern sun exposure. The soils are made of clay and limestone marls.
Most of the vines are 45-90 years old, only 1/3rd of them is 5-30 years old. On some parcels different varieties can be found on the same row, just like it used to be in the ancient times.
Red : 70% Grenache ; 30% Carignan, Mourvèdre, Syrah, Counoise, Muscardin and Vaccarèse.
White : 45% Grenache blanc, 45% Bourboulenc, 10% various
Fortified wine (Vin doux naturel): 90% Grenache and 10% Carignan
Green harvest of the younger vines. A first selection is done in the parcels during the harvest (the grapes that are not selected are left on the ground).
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Vintners Dennis O’Neil and Steph Martin began development of Checkerboard Vineyards in 1999 and retained winemaker Martha McClellan to create a portfolio of wines reflecting the mountainside. The estate includes four vineyard sites of different elevation, exposure and soil composition, providing the foundation for a portfolio that includes Checkerboard Aurora Vineyard, Checkerboard Coyote Ridge Vineyard, Checkerboard Nash Creek Vineyard, Checkerboard Kings Row, Checkerboard Sauvignon Blanc, and Checkerboard Rose. Grapes are harvested at dawn in micro-lots and delivered steps away to the winery where clusters are sorted, discarding any blemished ones. Individual berries are hand-selected for vinification and transferred for fermentation, by hand, to Taransaud wooden tanks, stainless tanks, and individual wooden barrels.
Farming is based on long-term sustainability and includes water conservation and monitoring, permanent cover crops planted in alternating rows, and the use of entomology for pest control and the development of soils with good organic matter and microbiology. Checkerboard Vineyards is a member of Fish Friendly Farming which promotes environmentally-friendly land practices and water quality management. Aurora Vineyard is located in a small valley midway up Diamond Mountain and on a large knoll at an elevation of 1,200 feet. The knoll bulges outward, giving the vineyard full Southern exposure and open light from the East and West and protection from Napa Valley’s summer fog. Six acres are planted in the knoll’s rich, volcanic soils that are riddled with basalt cobble in a loamy red clay. The remaining six acres are planted in a deep gravely mix of volcanic ash and chips of decomposed Rhyolite that were washed down from the steep, rocky crags of Diamond Mountain above.
There's a fresh, sweet aroma to the 2016 Checkerboard Aurora Vineyard that builds excitement and anticipation for what's to come. On approach, the palate is juicy and expansive and explodes with flavors of blackberry, mulberry, dark cherry, caramel, leaf tobacco and green olive. The wine continues with a voluptuousness that's linear and constant yet lifted by natural acidity. The finish is showy, long and lingering with finely polished tannins. An exceptional vintage.
Ceretto Barbaresco DOCG is made from 100 percent Nebbiolo.
If we could sum this wine up in a single word, we wouldn’t hesitate to define it as “classic”. As tradition suggests, this Barbaresco is the fruit of the assembly of several parcels of land, coming from some of our most beautiful vineyards. The idea is that of naturally obtaining balance by harmonizing different expressions, often contrasting ones. The result is a liquid expression of a terroir, tempting and typical, a synopsis of one Langa, that of Barbaresco, which moves in the glass, alternating between structure and elegance.
Review:
This is a really solid, meaty and mouth-filling Barbaresco that offers vivid red fruit with floral and mineral nuances and hints of licorice and cedar. Medium- to full-bodied with compact, velvety tannins that form the backbone of the wine, showing impressive concentration and length. Drink from 2027.
- James Suckling 93 Points
Bright, brightening ruby garnet. Appealing and finely drawn nose with notes of strawberries, blood orange and sealing wax. Very juicy on the palate, fresh, precisely defined fruit, opens up with fine-meshed tannins, very tense, with a cherry finish.
-FalStaff 93 Points