Franz Prager, co-founder of the Vinea Wachau, had already earned a reputation for his wines when Toni Bodenstein married into the family. Bodenstein’s passion for biodiversity and old terraces, coupled with brilliant winemaking, places Prager in the highest echelon of Austrian producers.
Smaragd is a designation of ripeness for dry wines used exclusively by members of the Vinea Wachau. The wines must have minimum alcohol of 12.5%. The grapes are hand-harvested, typically in October and November, and are sent directly to press where they spontaneously ferment in stainless-steel tanks.
Zwerithaler is a sub-site of Buschenberg and sits to the east of Weißenkirchen. The name Zwerithaler, meaning "nestled between the valleys," is a near monopole of Weingut Prager. It has a complex soil of paragneiss with alternating layers of dark and calcareous rock. Zwerithaler Kammergut is a 0.34-hectare parcel planted before WWI. The wine from these ungrafted, 100-year-old vines was bottled separately by Prager for the first time in 2015.
Light greenish yellow, silver reflections. Fine savory, delicate nuances of anise, tobacco notes, delicate yellow fruit, a touch of mango and honey blossom. Full-bodied, juicy white apple fruit, well-integrated, silky acidity structure, finesse and long persistence, saline finish, lingers for minutes, Veltliner at its best.
-Falstaff 99 Points
"The aromas of this old-vine gruner veltliner leap out and shake you to the core. Full-bodied and full of weighty and balanced layers of papayas, mangoes, nectarines, chives, white tea and oranges. Fantastic concentration, giving so much pleasure already, but it will keep blossoming if you give it time. From vines planted in 1907. Sustainable. Drink or hold."
-James Suckling 98 Points
A balanced and memorable Chardonnay that starts with aromas of orangeblossom, Asian pear, crème fraiche, peaches and chamomile, complemented bynotes of toffee, honeysuckle, and graham cracker. On the palate, flavors of greenapple, Meyer lemon and stonefruit are finished with notes of tangerine and vanilla.This Chardonnay is smooth, creamy and balanced with a lingering acidity and a longfinish. This is the perfect wine to pair with a brie or gouda cheese plate drizzled withlocal honey and hazelnut.
Review:
Fruit is sourced primarily from the southern part of Napa Valley, and aged five months in French oak. With its billowy mouthfeel, the liquid seemingly floats above the palate. Lemon curd, daffodil, cinnamon toast, and creamy vanilla sandalwood are delicious and generous flavors. This is approachable luxury. - The Tasting Panel, July/August 2025
-Tasting Panel/Somm Journal 92 Points