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Wine from Haut-Marbuzet
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Hervé Duboscq became the owner of a plot of seven hectares called Château HAUT-MARBUZET in 1952. He resurrected the vineyard and gave rise to a wine of its own style, which immediately charmed many experts. In 1962, his son Henri joined him in order to help him reach the only goal, which is precious to the Duboscqs, the “glory of Haut-Marbuzet”. After buying the neighbouring vineyards, as well as pockets, which were originally the result of the Mac-Carthy’s parcelling out, the vineyard attained an area of 66 hectares in 2005.
At the same time, the Duboscqs bought the chateaux Chambert-Marbuzet, Tour de Marbuzet and Mac-Carthy. All three are crus Bourgeois of Saint-Estephe.
The greater part of the vineyard of Haut-Marbuzet is made up of a gravelly topsoil and a clay-limestone subsoil that contains iron. The Graves wine owes its name to its soil, which contains gravel of various size. The gravel stores the sun’s heat during the day and at nightfall, it emits the heat back to the grapevines. The gravel is deposit from the Gironde river. It forms a series of slightly sloping terraces. The high density of plantation is immediately visible in the vineyards. On average, there are 9,000 vines per hectare. High-density planting ensures an equal yield with lesser grapes per vine, but better quality grapes. At Haut-Marbuzet, this high density also increases the competition between the grapevines and encourages a deep root system : « the typicality of the terroir lies at a depth of four meters ».
The deep rooting system of the grapevines as well as the banishment of chemical herbicides best reflect the characteristics of this terroir. The vineyard of Château Haut-Marbuzet is made up of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. The strong presence of Merlot gives the wine a smooth and mellow taste. It complements the austere notes of Cabernet Sauvignon with its opulence, charm and seduction.
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-150x300.jpg "Haut-Marbuzet Saint Estephe 2019")
Haut-Marbuzet Saint Estephe is made from 55% Merlot, 35% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Cabernet Franc and 5% Petit Verdot.
The characteristics of Haut-Marbuzet are mostly defined by its wine-producing methods.
The grapes are harvested once they are very ripe, then destalked. The maceration time is very long. Owner Henri Duboscq remains committed to using traditional materials, like concrete vats. They preserve the natural yeasts of past wines. Henri Duboscq says that he likes the idea that each year, the new yeasts revive the old ones, and the old influence the new.
The Duboscq were among the first to harvest overripe grapes. The wine is then matured in new oak barrels. Here, too, Haut-Marbuzet was among the first to use this production technique. All of these practices complete the characteristics of the terroir. They influence the color of the wine, its structure, its body, and finish.
Henri Duboscq often speaks of his love of unctuous wines, feminine wines that have fine, woody scents, with soft and ripe tannins. From this point of view, the wine of Haut-Marbuzet clearly stands apart from the classical wine of Saint Estèphe which is more virile, austere and astringent.
Tasting notes
Haut-Marbuzet shows a dark and intense color and a delicous bouquet of red and black fruit aromas, violet, pepper and coconut nuances. On the palate, the wine is rich and unctuous, with fine and peppery tannins that support the solid and fresh texture.
Review:
"Black and blue fruit, walnuts, gravy, vanilla, praline and cigar box on the nose. Full-bodied with fine tannins. Balanced, layered and polished with a fleshy texture. Harmonious, with elegance and intensity. Beautiful finish. Wow. Drink from 2025."
- James Suckling (January 2022), 96 pts
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Enemigo El Enemigo Gran Enemigo is made from 100% Cabernet Franc.
In the spectrum of people who pay attention to detail, winemakers are often incredibly detail-oriented. This can sometimes spill over to become an internal battled, and, as Alejandro Vigil and Adrianna Catena state, "We are our own worst enemy." El Enemigo pays homage to this internal struggle.
The nose presents sweet aromas of black ripen fruits with hints of vanilla and chocolate, which appear after the oak ageing. The mouthfeel is sweet with structured, persistent tannins due to the natural acidity of this wine, leading into an excellent long finish.
Review:
The nose of the 2018 Gran Enemigo El Cepillo Single Vineyard, from a low-yielding and drier year, is full of curry, a note that was a constant across the three vintages I tasted together, but it tends to be stronger in low-yielding and dry years like this. It's also floral and comes through as aromatic and a little exotic, in a good way, with elegance, persistence and very pure flavors. It has fine-grained tannins, great acidity and balance. 7,200 bottles. All these single-vineyard bottlings mature in ancient 4,000-liter oak foudres for some 15 months.
-Wine Advocate 97 Points"Pretty and inviting on the nose with gorgeous aromas of floral violet, cassis and completed with a lifted, delicate liquorice note. The palate is graced with deep herb, pepper, crunchy red fruit and graceful, silky tannins."
-Decanter 97 Points
Bastgen Kestener Paulinshofberg Riesling Kabinett is 100 percent Riesling.
Kesten is a small village right by the Mosel surrounded by steep vineyards called Paulinsberg (=hills of Saint Paul). The vines grow on bridle clay slate near the river - a classic terroir that has been cultivated with vines ever since Roman times. Riesling is the most typical grape of the Mosel region that produced a fruity Kabinett with beautiful peach aromas on the nose, rich and ripe fruits on the mouth with honeyed notes and a refreshing acidity. This is a very pleasing wine.
They meticulously tend 4.5 ha (11.11 acres) of which 80% is Riesling. The soil is made of slate. Their vineyards are located in Kesten and Brauneberg, on a steep terrace, and planted to 50-year old vines. Fortunately for Bastgen, they own part of the famous Brauneberger Juffer Sonnenuhr. The vines produce very small, ripe berries that are very tasty.
The grapes are strongly selected, only minimal amounts of botrytis are tolerated. At time of the harvest the grapes are fully ripened with a golden color and tart acidity. After a natural sedimentation process the fermentation occurs in stainless steel tanks under cool conditions. The wine remains on the lees until April, then is gently filtered once, and bottled.
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