" We don't sell the wine without touching the vine "
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Franz Prager, co-founder of the Vinea Wachau, had already earned a reputation for his wines when Toni Bodenstein married into the family. Bodenstein’s passion for biodiversity and old terraces, coupled with brilliant winemaking, places Prager in the highest echelon of Austrian producers.
Smaragd is a designation of ripeness for dry wines used exclusively by members of the Vinea Wachau. The wines must have minimum alcohol of 12.5%. The grapes are hand-harvested, typically in October and November, and are sent directly to press where they spontaneously ferment in stainless-steel tanks.
Zwerithaler is a sub-site of Buschenberg and sits to the east of Weißenkirchen. The name Zwerithaler, meaning "nestled between the valleys," is a near monopole of Weingut Prager. It has a complex soil of paragneiss with alternating layers of dark and calcareous rock. Zwerithaler Kammergut is a 0.34-hectare parcel planted before WWI. The wine from these ungrafted, 100-year-old vines was bottled separately by Prager for the first time in 2015.
Light greenish yellow, silver reflections. Fine savory, delicate nuances of anise, tobacco notes, delicate yellow fruit, a touch of mango and honey blossom. Full-bodied, juicy white apple fruit, well-integrated, silky acidity structure, finesse and long persistence, saline finish, lingers for minutes, Veltliner at its best.
-Falstaff 99 Points
"The aromas of this old-vine gruner veltliner leap out and shake you to the core. Full-bodied and full of weighty and balanced layers of papayas, mangoes, nectarines, chives, white tea and oranges. Fantastic concentration, giving so much pleasure already, but it will keep blossoming if you give it time. From vines planted in 1907. Sustainable. Drink or hold."
-James Suckling 98 Points
Ferren Chardonnay Volpert Vineyard is 100 percent Chardonnay.
At the end of Taylor Lane outside of the coastal village of Occidental lies Volpert Vineyard. With the Pacific Ocean in sight, this vineyard resides at the far western edge of the West Sonoma Coast AVA. As such, this may be the source of our most high-toned and mineral laden wines. Owned by the Volpert family and farmed organically by Greg Adams, these five acres of heritage clone Pinot noir and Chardonnay are at the absolute cutting edge of Sonoma Coast viticulture.
Review:
Aromatic and distinctive, with a hint of smoked sea salt up front. Offers flavors of pear, yellow apple and peach at the core, with lime zest and herbal accents of lemon verbena, lemon balm and honeysuckle, plus a touch of fresh ginger. All of the flavors reverberate with fresh acidity and cardamom details on the finish. Drink now through 2038.—M.W."
- Wine Spectator (May 2025), 95 pts
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