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The term "Pais" refers to a grape variety that holds a significant place in the wine history of the Americas, particularly in Chile and Argentina, where it is known as "Criolla Chica." Its roots can be traced back to the Spanish conquistadors, who brought Vitis vinifera (the common grape vine) to the New World. Over centuries, Pais adapted to its new environment, flourishing especially in Chile's rural, traditional settings.
In Chile, Pais grapes were the dominant variety for wine production until the late 19th and early 20th centuries when they were gradually replaced by more internationally recognized varieties like Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Carmenere. However, Pais has experienced a renaissance in recent years, as winemakers and consumers alike have started to appreciate its historical significance and unique characteristics.
Wines made from Pais grapes are typically light to medium-bodied, with fresh red fruit flavors (such as strawberry, raspberry, and cherry), herbal notes, and a distinctive bright acidity. They are often produced in a style that emphasizes drinkability and fruit expression, sometimes using carbonic maceration (a fermentation method that enhances fruity flavors and softens tannins) to create a more approachable, youthful wine.
In Argentina, where it's called Criolla Chica, the grape plays a similar role, contributing to the country's viticultural diversity. Although not as prominent as Malbec, Argentina's flagship variety, Criolla Chica is gaining attention for its role in traditional and historical wines.
Pais is part of a broader interest in reviving heritage grape varieties and traditional winemaking practices. This interest supports more sustainable viticulture, as these old vines are often dry-farmed (grown without irrigation) and adapted to local conditions, reducing the need for chemical inputs. Winemakers focusing on Pais are often passionate about expressing terroir—a wine's sense of place—believing that these vines can uniquely reflect the landscapes and climates of their regions.
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La Despensa Boutique Pais is made from 90% Pais and 10% Cinsault.
La Despensa Boutique Pais is made from 90% Pais (also known as Criolla Chica) and 10% Cinsault.
Aged 10 months in Flextank and used oaked barrels.
This is one of the oldest vineyard of Pais in Colchagua Valley, as it is 120-150 years old, all dry farmed.
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Enemigo El Enemigo Gran Enemigo is made from 100% Cabernet Franc.
In the spectrum of people who pay attention to detail, winemakers are often incredibly detail-oriented. This can sometimes spill over to become an internal battled, and, as Alejandro Vigil and Adrianna Catena state, "We are our own worst enemy." El Enemigo pays homage to this internal struggle.
The nose presents sweet aromas of black ripen fruits with hints of vanilla and chocolate, which appear after the oak ageing. The mouthfeel is sweet with structured, persistent tannins due to the natural acidity of this wine, leading into an excellent long finish.
Review:
The nose of the 2018 Gran Enemigo El Cepillo Single Vineyard, from a low-yielding and drier year, is full of curry, a note that was a constant across the three vintages I tasted together, but it tends to be stronger in low-yielding and dry years like this. It's also floral and comes through as aromatic and a little exotic, in a good way, with elegance, persistence and very pure flavors. It has fine-grained tannins, great acidity and balance. 7,200 bottles. All these single-vineyard bottlings mature in ancient 4,000-liter oak foudres for some 15 months.
-Wine Advocate 97 Points"Pretty and inviting on the nose with gorgeous aromas of floral violet, cassis and completed with a lifted, delicate liquorice note. The palate is graced with deep herb, pepper, crunchy red fruit and graceful, silky tannins."
-Decanter 97 Points
Just south of the winery, Bacigalupi Vineyard straddles Westside Road in the upper reach of Russian River Valley. The 125 acre vineyard encompasses a range of terroir, from heavier valley floor soil along the Russian River to alluvial clay loam on the rolling hillsides. The fruit is sourced from a superb block of 25 year-old Wente Clone vines located on the western slope of the site. Bacigalupi was the source of the Chateau Montelena Chardonnay that, famously, beat the French wines at the "Judgement of Paris" in 1976.
Bacigalupi Chardonnay has a nose of lemon zest and vanilla bean. The palate opens with red pear and Meyer lemon, and brioche toast and honey comb notes on the finish. Like well-made Chardonnay from great vineyards around the world this wine benefits from getting some air, will age for years, and is best when served chilled around 50 degrees. This wine will evolve in the bottle for many years to come. A terrific wine from one of Sonoma County's top sites for Chardonnay.
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