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The term "Pais" refers to a grape variety that holds a significant place in the wine history of the Americas, particularly in Chile and Argentina, where it is known as "Criolla Chica." Its roots can be traced back to the Spanish conquistadors, who brought Vitis vinifera (the common grape vine) to the New World. Over centuries, Pais adapted to its new environment, flourishing especially in Chile's rural, traditional settings.
In Chile, Pais grapes were the dominant variety for wine production until the late 19th and early 20th centuries when they were gradually replaced by more internationally recognized varieties like Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Carmenere. However, Pais has experienced a renaissance in recent years, as winemakers and consumers alike have started to appreciate its historical significance and unique characteristics.
Wines made from Pais grapes are typically light to medium-bodied, with fresh red fruit flavors (such as strawberry, raspberry, and cherry), herbal notes, and a distinctive bright acidity. They are often produced in a style that emphasizes drinkability and fruit expression, sometimes using carbonic maceration (a fermentation method that enhances fruity flavors and softens tannins) to create a more approachable, youthful wine.
In Argentina, where it's called Criolla Chica, the grape plays a similar role, contributing to the country's viticultural diversity. Although not as prominent as Malbec, Argentina's flagship variety, Criolla Chica is gaining attention for its role in traditional and historical wines.
Pais is part of a broader interest in reviving heritage grape varieties and traditional winemaking practices. This interest supports more sustainable viticulture, as these old vines are often dry-farmed (grown without irrigation) and adapted to local conditions, reducing the need for chemical inputs. Winemakers focusing on Pais are often passionate about expressing terroir—a wine's sense of place—believing that these vines can uniquely reflect the landscapes and climates of their regions.
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La Despensa Boutique Pais is made from 90% Pais and 10% Cinsault.
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Podere Grattamacco Bolgheri Superiore is made from 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, 15% Sangiovese.
#12 Wine Spectator Top 100 of 2022
The olfactory impact is of considerable aromatic intensity: it expands with notes of small, fully ripe red fruits, accompanied by clear balsamic and Mediterranean hints. In progression, typical mineral notes develop. The gustatory impact is austere, of remarkable freshness and of large volume. It develops in a balanced fusion between the broad minerality and the fine and enveloping tannins. Everything is found in the long final persistence that foreshadows a long life ahead.
Goes well with game, as e.g. local preparations of wild boar, roast, braised and stewed red meats, and medium aged cheese.
Review:
Dense and smooth, featuring black cherry, blackberry, plum, iron, licorice and menthol aromas and flavors. Fresh and featuring a spine of tannins, this finishes on the compact side for now. Shows balance, so be patient. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Sangiovese. Best from 2025.
-Wine Spectator 97 Points
The 2019 Bolgheri Superiore Grattamacco (a blend of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot and 15% Sangiovese) is a real beauty and shows very nicely today based on advancing vine age alone. Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah vines show great results after seven years, whereas Merlot and Sangiovese vines need a few more years before they start to show that extra degree of complexity, the winemaking team tells me. This is a complete and beautifully balanced wine that shows soft extraction and especially sweet tannins. It fermented in truncated conical oak vats and finished in barrique for 18 months.
-Wine Advocate 97 Points
-75x150.jpg "Bernardins Muscat Beaumes Venise VDN 2023")
Bernardins Muscat Beaumes Venise VDN 100% Muscat petits grains (75% Blanc, 25% Red)
Copper/rose hue and ripe soft aromas of orange, spice and flowers. The wine is full bodied with the texture of silk and flavors of orange custard, white peach, pear, apricot, toffee and orange peel.
The vineyards and their terroir are the essence of our wines. This is where everything starts and where we focus our efforts throughout the year. You can’t make great wine without great grapes.
The viticulture is essentially done by hand. Five people work full-time in the vineyards. They are supplemented by seasonal employees who work during bunch thinning and the harvest in order to bring out the very best in our vines. Working by hand and the attention each vine gets are fundamental. Pruning, de-budding, trellising, leaf removal and picking are thus carried out by hand with the utmost care.
We prepare the soil by using good old-fashioned ploughing. Organic compost is made from grape marc (the discarded stalks and skins).
As a way of protecting the plants, we only use phytosanitary products when necessary and within strict guidelines by staggering the treatments appropriately, to minimise the amount of chemicals used. We prefer to use as much as possible manual and organic techniques . Leaving natural grass cover, removing buds and leaves from the vines, preserving biodiversity around the vineyard: olive, almond and cypress trees, wild rosemary and capers.
In the spirit of respecting traditional techniques and the best elements of modern technology, cellar manager Andrew Hall and his winemaker son Romain Hall take family traditions very seriously.
When making our wines, the Muscat de Beaumes de Venise plays a central role and requires great care. After picking the grapes by hand, we press them straightaway to ferment the juice without skins. We don’t add any yeasts and keep the alcoholic fermentation in check by temperature control. Vin Doux Naturel winemaking involves stopping fermentation to preserve the grapes’ natural sweetness. During vinification, we watch the vats day and night and add the fortifying spirit just at the right moment. At this stage, the wine’s final balance is at stake. The wine is then aged in stainless steel tanks for 6 months before bottling.
Review:
"Butterscotch and apricot jam aromas. A lighter vintage of this cuvée, but very fresh and drinkable, and the best Muscat of the vintage by far. 110g/L residual sugar. In conversion to organic. - Matt WALLS"
- Decanter (November 2024), 91 pts
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