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Prager Smaragd Klaus Riesling is made from 100 percent Riesling.
Franz Prager, co-founder of the Vinea Wachau, had already earned a reputation for his wines when Toni Bodenstein married into the family. Bodenstein’s passion for biodiversity and old terraces, coupled with brilliant winemaking, places Prager in the highest echelon of Austrian producers.
Smaragd is a designation of ripeness for dry wines used exclusively by members of the Vinea Wachau. The wines must have minimum alcohol of 12.5%. The grapes are hand-harvested, typically in October and November, and are sent directly to press where they spontaneously ferment in stainless-steel tanks.
Klaus sits adjacent to Achleiten and is one of the Wachau’s most famous vineyards for Riesling. The vineyard is incredibly steep with a gradient of 77% at its steepest point. The southeast-facing terraced vineyard of dark migmatite-amphibolite and paragneiss produces a tightly wound and powerful wine. The parcel belonging to Toni Bodenstein was planted in 1952.
Tasting Notes:
Austrian Riesling is often defined by elevated levels of dry extract thanks to a lengthy ripening period and freshness due to dramatic temperature swings between day and night. “Klaus is not a charming Riesling,” says Toni Bodenstein with a wink. Klaus is Prager’s most assertive and robust Riesling.
Food Pairing
Riesling’s high acidity makes it one of the most versatile wines at the table. Riesling can be used to cut the fattiness of foods such as pork or sausages and can tame some saltiness. Conversely, it can highlight foods such as fish or vegetables in the same way a squeeze of lemon or a vinaigrette might.
Review:
What a stunning example of cool climate riesling. It’s full-bodied and deep, but so cool and delicate, packing in sleek layers of honeysuckle, apricots, lemons and grapefruit married to thyme and crushed rock. So long and seamless, with tension and focus that just keeps going. Sustainable. Try from 2025.
-James Suckling 98 Points
Wine Production: 100% whole bunches undergo a natural yeast fermentation. The wine is then left on lees for a year, with just one handling into the blending tank before bottling. A small amount of Sulphur is added at this point. Wines are bottled without fining or filtration.
Tasting Notes: Spicy and stalky, it has the customary black and red berry notes of Cabernet with a perfumed freshness and medium body. Fine-grained tannins are tempered by the influence of some carbonic maceration in the ferment.
“Cabernet from a north-facing slope on Hans and Anna Orth's vineyard in Coldstream. 100% whole bunches, matured in hogsheads (10% new). A bit darker and denser than last year's wine but equally elegant and perfumed with its scents of blackcurrant, cherry, blackberry leaf and violets. Medium bodied with balanced, mouthcoating yet fine tannins. A lovely wine, more reminiscent of great cabernet franc than sauvignon.”
- James Halliday 96 Points
“Superbly delineated aromas of dried sage, cassis, bay leaves, green beans and mossy forest scents. 100% whole bunch without an ounce of edginess or astringency. This is gorgeous, medium-bodied, perfumed and succulent. There’s a gentle raft of tannins rather than a chunky heaviness. Not dissimilar to the levity and élan of top Loire cabernet franc. Delicious.”
-James Suckling 95 Points
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