The aging is as Mounir ages his Burgundies: extremely long, never racked, no fining, no filtration. It would be easy to say that we expected the experience running one of Burgundy’s leading producers, Lucien Le Moine, would show in Mounir’s wines. But the actual results need to be tasted to be believed and understood: a wine with beguiling fruit and savory richness, yet extraordinary finesse and detail.
Mounir Saouma likes to describe Châteauneuf-du-Pape as a mosaic, with all the wild traditions and differences together making for very different interpretations. Omnia, Latin for “all,” is his attempt to encompass the entire region’s terroir and winemaking history (and perhaps future) in one glass. The fruit comes from 9 vineyard parcels across all 5 of the Châteauneuf communes, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Courthezon, Sorgues, Bedarrides and Orange (in early vintages, when the Saoumas did not have all the vineyards they have today, they would purchase fruit; today, Rotem & Mounir Saouma is 100% Estate). The wine is then vinified and aged in foudres, cement and 500 liter barrels – a little bit of everything.
2019 was another warm and dry vintage in the southern Rhône, marked by insistent drought and repeated heat waves during the season. With little disease pressure or frost, the crop was close to normal size, but bunch and berry-size was reduced during the growing season by the lack of water. The grapes were thus concentrated and rich in sugar and acidity, although potential alcohol levels were often quite high. Vineyards at higher elevations – Châteauneuf du Pape and Gigondas in particular — handled the heat better, and the wines from those AOPs are rich yet also remarkably fresh and energetic. Despite the initial concerns about the growing season, 2019 looks to be a watershed vintage in the Southern Rhône, producing rich wines with exceptional concentration and aging potential
Inviting aromas of sliced strawberries, red cherries and rose. Full-bodied with vibrant acidity and succulent fruit. Fine, structured tannins are vertically aligned with the fruit. More dark-fruited than the nose lets on and entirely delicious. I love the subtle spice here.
-James Suckling 94 Points
Very refined, with silky and fine-grained structure carrying alluring bergamot, rooibos tea, incense, dried cherry and lightly mulled raspberry notes along. A long sanguine thread weaves through the finish. Hard to resist now with so much charm, but this will benefit from cellaring. Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre.
-Wine Spectator 94 Points
Proelio Puerto Rubio Rioja Tempranillo 2019 is 100% Tempranillo.
Sourced from a vineyard at 505 metres above sea level in San Vicente de la Sonsierra, the wine takes its name from the site it is located on. The soils are primarily composed of depleted limestone in the subsoil and pebbles on the topsoil. These types of soils offer long-ageing capacity, freshness, volume and structured wines.
Fresh, structured and complex, this wine is very aromatic, with intense aromas of wild black fruits, accompanied by deep balsamic aromas and licorice. A silky texture and mineral notes, it is round, powerful and polished on the palate with flavors of black fruits, prunes, balsamic and spice. A long and persistent finish.
Meat and game, either grilled, baked or stewed, pastes, creams and soups, all kind of meat recipes, roast lamb.
Review:
This is a spicy Rioja with aromas of mulberries, spiced cherries, cinnamon stick, licorice and dill. Turns to walnuts and roasted chestnuts. Chewy and full-bodied, with firm yet polished tannins. Well structured, deep and persistent. Drink from 2024.
-James Suckling 94 Points