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Prager Smaragd Klaus Riesling is made from 100 percent Riesling.
Franz Prager, co-founder of the Vinea Wachau, had already earned a reputation for his wines when Toni Bodenstein married into the family. Bodenstein’s passion for biodiversity and old terraces, coupled with brilliant winemaking, places Prager in the highest echelon of Austrian producers.
Smaragd is a designation of ripeness for dry wines used exclusively by members of the Vinea Wachau. The wines must have minimum alcohol of 12.5%. The grapes are hand-harvested, typically in October and November, and are sent directly to press where they spontaneously ferment in stainless-steel tanks.
Klaus sits adjacent to Achleiten and is one of the Wachau’s most famous vineyards for Riesling. The vineyard is incredibly steep with a gradient of 77% at its steepest point. The southeast-facing terraced vineyard of dark migmatite-amphibolite and paragneiss produces a tightly wound and powerful wine. The parcel belonging to Toni Bodenstein was planted in 1952.
Tasting Notes:
Austrian Riesling is often defined by elevated levels of dry extract thanks to a lengthy ripening period and freshness due to dramatic temperature swings between day and night. “Klaus is not a charming Riesling,” says Toni Bodenstein with a wink. Klaus is Prager’s most assertive and robust Riesling.
Food Pairing
Riesling’s high acidity makes it one of the most versatile wines at the table. Riesling can be used to cut the fattiness of foods such as pork or sausages and can tame some saltiness. Conversely, it can highlight foods such as fish or vegetables in the same way a squeeze of lemon or a vinaigrette might.
Review:
What a stunning example of cool climate riesling. It’s full-bodied and deep, but so cool and delicate, packing in sleek layers of honeysuckle, apricots, lemons and grapefruit married to thyme and crushed rock. So long and seamless, with tension and focus that just keeps going. Sustainable. Try from 2025.
-James Suckling 98 Points
Zenato Amarone is a blend of Corvina and Rondinella, with a touch of Croatina and Oseleta. Corvina is prized not only for its intense marasca cherry flavor, but also its ability to withstand the drying process. Used in small quantities Rondinella also fares well in drying, and contributes dark color and an alluring floral note. Oseleta provides tannic structure and minerality; while Croatina is introduced to add youthful fruitiness. All this attention to detail pays off in a wine that is immediately approachable yet unmistakably ageworthy.
Ruby red in color, intoxicating aromas of dried black cherries, cassis, truffles, and chocolate fudge leap out of the glass. The resulting wine is silky, luscious, and complex, with a lingering finish.
Pair this wine with osso bucco, Bordelaise sauces, wild boar ravioli, or grilled cowboy ribeyes.
Review:
Restrained fruitiness with aromas of raspberries and earth, alongside a complex spicy blend of freshly ground black pepper, milk, mint, bay leaf and cocoa powder. Very youthful. Full-bodied, dense and balanced, with savory flavors of chocolate and cherries, super-tasty style, tight, chalky yet ripe tannins and a fresh, cleansing acidity. Toasty finish. Drinkable now, but best in a year or two.
-James Suckling 96 Points
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