The aging is as Mounir ages his Burgundies: extremely long, never racked, no fining, no filtration. It would be easy to say that we expected the experience running one of Burgundy’s leading producers, Lucien Le Moine, would show in Mounir’s wines. But the actual results need to be tasted to be believed and understood: a wine with beguiling fruit and savory richness, yet extraordinary finesse and detail.
Mounir Saouma likes to describe Châteauneuf-du-Pape as a mosaic, with all the wild traditions and differences together making for very different interpretations. Omnia, Latin for “all,” is his attempt to encompass the entire region’s terroir and winemaking history (and perhaps future) in one glass. The fruit comes from 9 vineyard parcels across all 5 of the Châteauneuf communes, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Courthezon, Sorgues, Bedarrides and Orange (in early vintages, when the Saoumas did not have all the vineyards they have today, they would purchase fruit; today, Rotem & Mounir Saouma is 100% Estate). The wine is then vinified and aged in foudres, cement and 500 liter barrels – a little bit of everything.
2019 was another warm and dry vintage in the southern Rhône, marked by insistent drought and repeated heat waves during the season. With little disease pressure or frost, the crop was close to normal size, but bunch and berry-size was reduced during the growing season by the lack of water. The grapes were thus concentrated and rich in sugar and acidity, although potential alcohol levels were often quite high. Vineyards at higher elevations – Châteauneuf du Pape and Gigondas in particular — handled the heat better, and the wines from those AOPs are rich yet also remarkably fresh and energetic. Despite the initial concerns about the growing season, 2019 looks to be a watershed vintage in the Southern Rhône, producing rich wines with exceptional concentration and aging potential
Inviting aromas of sliced strawberries, red cherries and rose. Full-bodied with vibrant acidity and succulent fruit. Fine, structured tannins are vertically aligned with the fruit. More dark-fruited than the nose lets on and entirely delicious. I love the subtle spice here.
-James Suckling 94 Points
Very refined, with silky and fine-grained structure carrying alluring bergamot, rooibos tea, incense, dried cherry and lightly mulled raspberry notes along. A long sanguine thread weaves through the finish. Hard to resist now with so much charm, but this will benefit from cellaring. Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre.
-Wine Spectator 94 Points
Holocene The Black Square Cabernet Sauvignon is made from 100 percent Cabernet Sauvignon.
There is something ethereal about Cabernet Sauvignon grown in the cobblestone soils of the Walla Walla Valley. This region offers aromatic exuberance, elegance, finesse, a polished texture, layered complexity, and remarkable length. It is a place where one can craft a singular, stand-alone example of this varietal—unique not only in the United States but worldwide—while still echoing some of our favorite wines from Bordeaux.
In 2022, Winemaker Todd Alexander embarked on a new (yet familiar) journey that he had been patiently awaiting the perfect moment to explore. The Black Square is in its inaugural vintage, and this 2022 is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon grown in the Rocks District of Milton-Freewater, Oregon, which is part of the Walla Walla Valley.
The Black Square embodies elegance and grace framed by great structure, supple texture, and acidity to ensure longevity. It shows ample fruit with complex savory notes. This is not a heavy wine that is monolithic and dull—there are already plenty of those available. This wine offers a unique expression of Cabernet; it may be the most delicious wine Todd Alexander has ever crafted, venturing into new territory for Rocks District Cabernet Sauvignon.
Review:
As black as squid ink, The Black Square is balance personified. A concentrated blackberry aroma seems as dark as the wine's name, with equally dark espresso, olive and charred steak notes joining it in the abyss. A dark plum and ripe boysenberry flavor combo is accompanied by traces of salty Mission olives, wet slate and silky smooth tannins. The one bright feature illuminating the way is the wine's amped-up acidity. None so black
-Wine Enthusiast 98 Points Number 5 in the Top 100