Every now and then, in life and in wine, we are presented with unique opportunities to express ourselves and create something truly remarkable.
When rare opportunities arise, we need to capture, nurture and develop them so that their potential is fulfilled. So when Torbreck was given the opportunity to work with one of the most famous vineyards in the Barossa Valley, it became almost inevitable that the resulting wine would be truly remarkable.
In 2003, Torbreck growers and fourth generation descendants of the Seppelt family, Malcolm and Joylene Seppelt, asked our winemakers to create for them a small batch of Shiraz from their old Gnadenfrei vineyard in the sub-region of Marananga.
Planted in 1958, the five acre vineyard is traditionally dry grown and comes from an original Barossa clonal source. South facing, on the eastern side of a ridge separating the Seppeltsfield and Marananga appellations, these aged vines have been meticulously hand tended, traditionally farmed and pruned by a grower with a lifetime’s experience on Western Barossa soils of very dark, heavy clay loam over red friable clay. The resulting low yields of small, concentrated Shiraz berries make the vineyard the envy of all winemakers in the Barossa.
We looked longingly at the wine when it was returned to the Seppelts, knowing that it was the best we had ever made. In 2005 we convinced the Seppelts to sell Torbreck the fruit and The Laird was born. In 2013 Torbreck purchased the Gnadenfrei vineyard, securing The Laird’s reputation as one of the world’s great single vineyard Shiraz wines.
Torbreck is the name of a forest near Inverness, Scotland and you’ll find more than a passing nod to the Celts in our wine naming conventions. The Laird of the Estate in Scotland is the Lord of the Manor and master of all he surveys.
Review:
I poured the 2017 The Laird, set it aside and got about doing other jobs for 45 minutes or so, to give it some room to breathe. And it does breathe. It has its own pulse and beat and life, and it flexes and moves in the mouth. This is incredibly enveloping, with aromas reminiscent of campfire coals, charred eucalyptus, lamb fat, roasted beetroot, black tea and a prowling sort of countenance. In the mouth, the wine is bonded and cohesive and seamless, there are no gaps between anything, no space between fruit, oak and tannin; it all comes as one. While this is a singular wine, it is so big and concentrated that it needs no accompaniment other than some fresh air and a good mate. It's denser than osmium and is impenetrable at this stage.
This Pinot Grigio is grown at the foot of the remains of what was once the stunning villa of the della Scala family, one of the most influencial families in Verona from the early 1200's to the late 1300's. The much admired ruler of Verona, Cangrande I della Scala, summered at this villa. Cangrande I was a great warrior, diplomatic prince and an important patron of the arts. He championed the works of Dante, Patrarch and Giotto. He created beautiful architecture throughout the city in the ornate, gothic style of his time. This label is a reproduction of the design taken from a fragment of the ornate and intricate art that once covered the ceilings of the villa. In Italian, Ornato means ornate or adorned. This label celebrates the beautiful, complex taste of the Della Scala family and the Gothic art of that period.
Color: Brilliant straw colored wine with golden reflections.
Bouquet: Fresh and floral bouquet with a hint of pears, apricots and bananas blended with the intense aroma of acacia flowers.
Taste: Fresh and inviting with bright fruit and an easy drinking style with a pleasing hint of almonds in the aftertaste.
Vineyard: Rich in limestone the soil is of alluvial origin. The vineyards are located in the province of Verona. The agricultre is sustainable. No chemical fertilizers, herbicides or pesticides are used. The vineyards are South facing at 300 meters above sea level.
Harvest: September – by hand. The grapes are picked as they ripen to keep the acidity high. The grapes are brought to the cellar and refrigerated within a half hour of picking to keep oxidation to a minimum.
The grapes are soft pressed and the juice is placed in stainless steel along with the skins for a brief maceration of 12 hours at 8-10° C. The must is then racked and lightly filtered. Fermentation then takes place with selected indigenous yeast under controlled temperatures. Of 16-18°C. The fermentation is slow and cool to emhance the natural aromas of the grapes. The finished wine is placed in stainless steel holding tanks until bottled.
Aging: 3-4 months in stainless steel.
Alcohol: 12%
Acidity: 5.30
Seafood dishes, risottos with scampi, spaghetti with clams, sole in white wine.