Clos Saint-Jean is a 41-hectare estate in Châteauneuf-du-Pape run by brothers Vincent and Pascal Maurel. Considered by many critics and wine-writers as the preeminent estate espousing the modern style of winemaking in Châteauneuf, this cellar is one of the oldest in the region, having been founded in 1900 by the greatgreat-grandfather of Vincent and Pascal, Edmund Tacussel. A short time after its founding and well before the AOP of Chateauneuf-du-Pape was created in 1923, Edmund began bottling estate wines in 1910.
The farming at Clos Saint-Jean is fully sustainable due to the warm and dry climate, which prevents the need for chemical inputs. Instead, Vincent and Pascal employ organic methods for pest control, mainly pheromones, to prevent pests from taking up residence in their vines, a process called amusingly enough in French, confusion sexuelle. The vines tended manually, and harvest is conducted in several passes entirely by hand.
Deus ex Machina is a literary and dramatic term for a miraculous intervention that interrupts a logical course of events in a plot or play. A suitable name for a cuvée that had it’s start in the torrid vintage of 2003 when Philippe Cambie and Vincent Maurel made the decision to harvest at the end of September, weeks after their neighbors. Deus ex Machina is a blend of old vine Grenache from La Crau, aged in tank with equally ancient Mourvedre from the sandy soils of BoisDauphin aged in demi-muid. Deus ex Machina is only made in the best vintages.
Review:
Lastly, the 2022 Châteauneuf Du Pape Deus-Ex Machina shows a similar profile to the Combes des Fous, yet it brings another level of tannins and concentration. Kirsch liqueur, white flowers, sandalwood, cured meats, and graphite notes all shine here, and it's full-bodied, has a deep, layered, powerful, yet weightless profile, lots of ripe tannins, and a blockbuster of a finish. This ripe, sexy, seamless, incredibly impressive beauty will compete with anything in the vintage. As usual, this cuvée is 60% Grenache and 40% Mourvedre, which is brought up in roughly 40% new demi-muids.
Review: Jeb Dunnuck 97 Points
Ferren Chardonnay Volpert Vineyard is 100 percent Chardonnay.
At the end of Taylor Lane outside of the coastal village of Occidental lies Volpert Vineyard. With the Pacific Ocean in sight, this vineyard resides at the far western edge of the West Sonoma Coast AVA. As such, this may be the source of our most high-toned and mineral laden wines. Owned by the Volpert family and farmed organically by Greg Adams, these five acres of heritage clone Pinot noir and Chardonnay are at the absolute cutting edge of Sonoma Coast viticulture.
Review:
Aromatic and distinctive, with a hint of smoked sea salt up front. Offers flavors of pear, yellow apple and peach at the core, with lime zest and herbal accents of lemon verbena, lemon balm and honeysuckle, plus a touch of fresh ginger. All of the flavors reverberate with fresh acidity and cardamom details on the finish. Drink now through 2038.—M.W."
- Wine Spectator (May 2025), 95 pts