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Irresistible ripened plums and opulent dusty blackberries lift the senses, alluring the nose to tertiary notes of delicate florals and intriguing mineral edges. Balance is the defining quality of this wine; even in its youth, 2021 Black Label is resolutely complete from beginning to end. Every element is in place, as dimpled yet silky tannins unfold with grace and finesse, revealing a core of power and depth. Broad strokes of black mulberries, crème de cassis, and juniper accelerate through the mid-palate with captivating width and focus. This thrilling dance culminates in a stunning finish of opulent and elegant dark fruits that persist with each sip, leaving an indelible impression of the near-perfect growing season that shaped the Fortuna Vineyard—full of power and sinue—and Leopoldina Vineyard—full of poise and intention—in the 2021 vintage.
"Stunning stuff, the 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon Black Label offers a full-bodied, deep, majestic style as well as beautiful aromatics of cr me de cassis, violets, flowers, and nicely integrated background oak. It has ultra-fine tannins, flawless balance, and a regal, age-worthy style that has so much to love. It, however, is not going to be for the instant gratification crowd and this actually shut down pretty quickly with air. I would hide bottle for 4-6 years and it s going to cruise over the following two decades in cold cellars."
- 97 Points Jeb Dunnuck
Clos Saint-Jean is a 41-hectare estate in Châteauneuf-du-Pape run by brothers Vincent and Pascal Maurel. Considered by many critics and wine-writers as the preeminent estate espousing the modern style of winemaking in Châteauneuf, this cellar is one of the oldest in the region, having been founded in 1900 by the greatgreat-grandfather of Vincent and Pascal, Edmund Tacussel. A short time after its founding and well before the AOP of Chateauneuf-du-Pape was created in 1923, Edmund began bottling estate wines in 1910.
The farming at Clos Saint-Jean is fully sustainable due to the warm and dry climate, which prevents the need for chemical inputs. Instead, Vincent and Pascal employ organic methods for pest control, mainly pheromones, to prevent pests from taking up residence in their vines, a process called amusingly enough in French, confusion sexuelle. The vines tended manually, and harvest is conducted in several passes entirely by hand.
Combe des Fous literally means, the hill of the fool. The hill, in this case, is located in the far southern reach of Le Crau which was left barren for many centuries because the layer of galets was so exceedingly deep that everyone assumed vines could never survive there. The fool in this situation is Edmund Tacussel, the great-great-grandfather of Vincent and Pascal Maruel who planted a Grenache vineyard on this site in 1905. That old-vine Grenache form the heart of this cuvée with a small amount of Syrah, Cinsault and Vaccarèse. La Combe des Fous is only made in the best vintages.
Review:
This has good concentration and energy to the dense core of dark fruit and bitter cherry, with great poise and elegance despite its ripeness (an impressive feat for the vintage). Guided by finely crushed mineral accents and tannins, this reveals pretty high-toned floral notes and leafy tobacco. Grenache, Syrah, Mourvedre, Cinsault, Vaccarese and Muscardin. Drink now through 2032. 900 cases made.
-Wine Spectator 95 Points
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