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Franz Prager, co-founder of the Vinea Wachau, had already earned a reputation for his wines when Toni Bodenstein married into the family. Bodenstein’s passion for biodiversity and old terraces, coupled with brilliant winemaking, places Prager in the highest echelon of Austrian producers.
Smaragd is a designation of ripeness for dry wines used exclusively by members of the Vinea Wachau. The wines must have minimum alcohol of 12.5%. The grapes are hand-harvested, typically in October and November, and are sent directly to press where they spontaneously ferment in stainless-steel tanks.
Zwerithaler is a sub-site of Buschenberg and sits to the east of Weißenkirchen. The name Zwerithaler, meaning "nestled between the valleys," is a near monopole of Weingut Prager. It has a complex soil of paragneiss with alternating layers of dark and calcareous rock. Zwerithaler Kammergut is a 0.34-hectare parcel planted before WWI. The wine from these ungrafted, 100-year-old vines was bottled separately by Prager for the first time in 2015.
Light greenish yellow, silver reflections. Fine savory, delicate nuances of anise, tobacco notes, delicate yellow fruit, a touch of mango and honey blossom. Full-bodied, juicy white apple fruit, well-integrated, silky acidity structure, finesse and long persistence, saline finish, lingers for minutes, Veltliner at its best.
-Falstaff 99 Points
"The aromas of this old-vine gruner veltliner leap out and shake you to the core. Full-bodied and full of weighty and balanced layers of papayas, mangoes, nectarines, chives, white tea and oranges. Fantastic concentration, giving so much pleasure already, but it will keep blossoming if you give it time. From vines planted in 1907. Sustainable. Drink or hold."
-James Suckling 98 Points
Laurent-Perrier Grand Siecle No. 27 is a blend of 60% Chardonnay, 40% Pinot Noir.
Grand Siècle was born from the vision of Bernard de Nonancourt: to recreate the perfect year, one that nature alone could never deliver. Iteration N°27 embodies this idea, crafted from a masterful blend of three outstanding years – 2015, 2013, and 2012 – with a predominance of Chardonnay complemented by Pinot Noir, sourced from eight Grand Cru vineyards.
After at least 10 years of aging on the lees, the result is a wine of rare aromatic complexity, combining freshness, energy, and timeless elegance. Grand Siècle is never tied to a single vintage but represents a higher concept: the pursuit of absolute balance between intensity, finesse and harmony. Since 1959, it has been revealed only 27 times in bottle and 24 times in magnum, affirming its place among the most exclusive and refined champagnes.
- 3 exceptional years chosen for their complementarity among the rare Laurent‑Perrier vintages.
- A majority of Chardonnay complemented by Pinot Noir from a maximum of 11 Grands Crus out of the 319 Crus in the Champagne region.
- Aged for 10 years on the lees for the bottle format and a few more years for the magnum format.
Vintage in Champagne is usually synonymous with excellence for Prestige Cuvées. Contrarily, Laurent‑Perrier believes that only the art of assemblage can offer what nature can never provide, that is, the perfect year.
The expression of the perfect year is that of a great champagne wine that has long ageing potential and over time develops depth, intensity and aromatic complexity yet retains its freshness and vibrancy.
Since 1959, Grand Siècle has been revealed only 26 times in bottle format and 23 times in magnum.
The « Grand Siècle » (Great Century) is the name given to one of the most prosperous periods (17th century) in the history of France known for the capacity of man, through his works, to create what nature cannot. Louis XIVth, known as the « Sun King », by creating the « Château de Versailles » and its gardens, was the architect of this model of harmony, balance and perfection.
The symmetry and perspective of the « Jardins à la française », the capacity to grow Mediterranean fruits (especially Oranges inside the « Orangerie ») in such a Northern climate, creating the Grand Canal, the fountains and ponds with no nearby rivers are many illustrations of this ability of man to sublimate natural elements. The name of Grand Siècle was chosen for Laurent‑Perrier’s Prestige Cuvée based on this common vision to reach a perfection that Nature, on its own, cannot provide.
Review:
Impressively aromatic, showing honeysuckle, violets and lavender with bread dough and just a hint of light caramel as well as dried apples, cooked pears and tarte tatin. Reductive with graphite, stone and iodine. Some chalk too. Full-bodied but not at all heavy, turning almost weightless. Nine years on the lees and 7 g/L dosage give energy, length and form. Goes on for minutes. This will age beautifully but is already fascinating, evolving in the glass. Drink or hold.
James Suckling 99 Points
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