Every now and then, in life and in wine, we are presented with unique opportunities to express ourselves and create something truly remarkable.
When rare opportunities arise, we need to capture, nurture and develop them so that their potential is fulfilled. So when Torbreck was given the opportunity to work with one of the most famous vineyards in the Barossa Valley, it became almost inevitable that the resulting wine would be truly remarkable.
In 2003, Torbreck growers and fourth generation descendants of the Seppelt family, Malcolm and Joylene Seppelt, asked our winemakers to create for them a small batch of Shiraz from their old Gnadenfrei vineyard in the sub-region of Marananga.
Planted in 1958, the five acre vineyard is traditionally dry grown and comes from an original Barossa clonal source. South facing, on the eastern side of a ridge separating the Seppeltsfield and Marananga appellations, these aged vines have been meticulously hand tended, traditionally farmed and pruned by a grower with a lifetime’s experience on Western Barossa soils of very dark, heavy clay loam over red friable clay. The resulting low yields of small, concentrated Shiraz berries make the vineyard the envy of all winemakers in the Barossa.
We looked longingly at the wine when it was returned to the Seppelts, knowing that it was the best we had ever made. In 2005 we convinced the Seppelts to sell Torbreck the fruit and The Laird was born. In 2013 Torbreck purchased the Gnadenfrei vineyard, securing The Laird’s reputation as one of the world’s great single vineyard Shiraz wines.
Torbreck is the name of a forest near Inverness, Scotland and you’ll find more than a passing nod to the Celts in our wine naming conventions. The Laird of the Estate in Scotland is the Lord of the Manor and master of all he surveys.
Review:
I poured the 2017 The Laird, set it aside and got about doing other jobs for 45 minutes or so, to give it some room to breathe. And it does breathe. It has its own pulse and beat and life, and it flexes and moves in the mouth. This is incredibly enveloping, with aromas reminiscent of campfire coals, charred eucalyptus, lamb fat, roasted beetroot, black tea and a prowling sort of countenance. In the mouth, the wine is bonded and cohesive and seamless, there are no gaps between anything, no space between fruit, oak and tannin; it all comes as one. While this is a singular wine, it is so big and concentrated that it needs no accompaniment other than some fresh air and a good mate. It's denser than osmium and is impenetrable at this stage.
Mas la Plana is graceful and balanced despite its firm and dominant tannin profile. Bright crunchy acidity ensures a wine that will develop in the cellar for years to come. This polished red displays hints of its Mediterranean heritage with herbaceous bramble while holding true to brooding currant and loamy earth, reminiscent of old-world Cabernet Sauvignon.
Review:
Inviting mint, floral, cassis, clove and cinnamon nose. Juicy, lively and fresh on entry, with densely-packed soft black fruits, blackcurrant jam and spice. Textural and long with fine silky tannins and tidily-integrated acidity. Superb overall length and finish.
Decanter 97 Points
Toso Fragolino Rosso Spago is an aromatized drink made of wine and strawberry with fine and fruity flavors. Serve cool at 8 C. Excellent as an aperitif, with desserts as well as for cocktails or simply on its own.
Tours de Laroque Saint Emilion is made from 96% Merlot and 4% Cabernet Franc.
Les Tours de Laroque Saint-Emilion Grand Cru is the second wine from Chateau Laroque, a selection of over 50 year-old vines that shows finesse, purity and authenticity of this great terroir.
The wine is particularly attractive and approachable when young with its bright, floral and spicy character. It is elegant and velvety, has a fresh salinity and a noble texture, and offers good acidity with firm tannins.
Review:
"Lots of dark chocolate on the nose with blueberries, ripe blackberries, plums, dried lavender, toast and mahogany. It’s medium-to full-bodied with firm, chewy tannins. Needs time to soften. Try in 2025."
- James Suckling (January 2022), 91 pts
Toza Crianza Jumilla is made from 100% Monastrell (Mourvedre). Toza Crianza is a classic example of the Monastrell variety from the Mediterranean region, made from hand harvested old vines and aged 12 months in oak barrels. This Spanish red is rich, toasty, round and velvety.
Review:
Review:
"Opaque ruby. Dark berries, coconut and a hint of spiciness on the powerfully scented nose. In a round and generous style, showing very good depth and appealing sweetness to the blackberry and cherry cola flavors. Soft, even tannins add gentle grip to a long, smooth finish that leaves hints of vanilla and dark fruits behind. Raised in a combination of French and American oak barrels. - Josh Raynolds"
- Antonio Galloni's Vinous (March 2021), 90 pts
Toza Crianza Jumilla is made from 100% Monastrell (Mourvedre). Toza Crianza is a classic example of the Monastrell variety from the Mediterranean region, made from hand harvested old vines and aged 12 months in oak barrels. This Spanish red is rich, toasty, round and velvety.
Pair with red meat and game casseroles and well-cured cheeses.
Dunn Vineyards Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon is made from 100 percent Cabernet.
This Napa Valley wine is a blend of their Howell Mountain fruit and a small quantity of valley floor fruit that they purchase. This valley floor fruit contributes to the wine’s earlier approachability and softer tannic structure.
Review:
I loved the 2019 Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley, which I think is a step up over the 2018, although both 2019s show a much more elegant profile. Ripe currants, plums, roasted herbs, violets, and incense notes all shine in this medium to full-bodied, ripe, supple, layered beauty, which has fine tannins and a gorgeous finish. Enjoy bottles any time over the coming 15 years.
-Jeb Dunnuck 94 Points
Bernardins Beaumes de Venise Rouge Cru Cotes du Rhone is made from 65% Grenache, 25% Syrah, 5% Mourvedre and 5% Grenache Blanc.
Bright ruby color with cherry tinges. Complex black fruit aromas on the nose enhanced by spicy notes. Rounded palate with good length.
The wine is drinking well right now and can be kept for another 10 years.
Situation
Spreads out over the south-east side of the Dentelles de Montmirail hills, in Beaumes de Venise in the southern part of the Rhone valley.
Terroir
On a poor sandy, hungry and arid soil consisting of tender limestone and gritty zones of sandy mollasse.
In the vineyard
The vineyards and their terroir are the essence of our wines. This is where everything starts and where we focus our efforts throughout the year. You can’t make great wine without great grapes.
The viticulture is essentially done by hand. Five people work full-time in the vineyards. They are supplemented by seasonal employees who work during bunch thinning and the harvest in order to bring out the very best in our vines. Working by hand and the attention each vine gets are fundamental. Pruning, de-budding, trellising, leaf removal and picking are thus carried out by hand with the utmost care.
We prepare the soil by using good old-fashioned ploughing. Organic compost is made from grape marc (the discarded stalks and skins).
As a way of protecting the plants, we only use phytosanitary products when necessary and within strict guidelines by staggering the treatments appropriately, to minimise the amount of chemicals used. We prefer to use as much as possible manual and organic techniques . Leaving natural grass cover, removing buds and leaves from the vines, preserving biodiversity around the vineyard: olive, almond and cypress trees, wild rosemary and capers.
Winemaking
We make two red wines at the estate. Terroir wines shaped by the two classic Côtes du Rhône varieties: Grenache and Syrah. We don’t follow any winemaking recipe but are constantly searching for the perfect expression of terroir and each vintage’s particular characteristics. We don’t go for overripe grapes and over-extraction, as we think the wine has to stay refreshing and balanced.
Leaving the wine for 15 days in concrete vats, we try to gently extract the tannins and anthocyanins essential for the wine’s structure and colour. The wine doesn’t come into any contact with wood during ageing. This way the characteristics of our terroir can fully express
Serve with a meal especially red meat, game and cheese.
Review:
"Smoky bacon, bay leaf and olive brine. This is very fine for a whole-bunch style, with lovely tannic finesse and texture. Powerful, tannic and cleansing, yet compact, with driving acidity, a dry, savoury finish and perfect balance. A good vintage, for what is a reliably good-value southern Rhône pick. Vineyards in conversion to organic; fruit is whole-bunch fermented.- Matt WALLS"
- Decanter (October 1st 2024), 94 pts