Franz Prager, co-founder of the Vinea Wachau, had already earned a reputation for his wines when Toni Bodenstein married into the family. Bodenstein’s passion for biodiversity and old terraces, coupled with brilliant winemaking, places Prager in the highest echelon of Austrian producers.
Smaragd is a designation of ripeness for dry wines used exclusively by members of the Vinea Wachau. The wines must have minimum alcohol of 12.5%. The grapes are hand-harvested, typically in October and November, and are sent directly to press where they spontaneously ferment in stainless-steel tanks.
Klaus sits adjacent to Achleiten and is one of the Wachau’s most famous vineyards for Riesling. The vineyard is incredibly steep with a gradient of 77% at its steepest point. The southeast-facing terraced vineyard of dark migmatite-amphibolite and paragneiss produces a tightly wound and powerful wine. The parcel belonging to Toni Bodenstein was planted in 1952.
Tasting Notes:
Austrian Riesling is often defined by elevated levels of dry extract thanks to a lengthy ripening period and freshness due to dramatic temperature swings between day and night. “Klaus is not a charming Riesling,” says Toni Bodenstein with a wink. Klaus is Prager’s most assertive and robust Riesling.
Food Pairing
Riesling’s high acidity makes it one of the most versatile wines at the table. Riesling can be used to cut the fattiness of foods such as pork or sausages and can tame some saltiness. Conversely, it can highlight foods such as fish or vegetables in the same way a squeeze of lemon or a vinaigrette might.
Review:
Superbly cool, restrained and refined, this austere, beautiful dry riesling is a slow-burn masterpiece that's only just beginning to reveal its complex white-peach, white-tea, wild-herb and dark-berry character. Super-long and mineral finish. Drink or hold.
-James Suckling 97 Points
Weingut Prager Stockkultur Achleiten Gruner Veltliner Smaragd is made from 100 percent Gruner Veltliner.
Franz Prager, co-founder of the Vinea Wachau, had already earned a reputation for his wines when Toni Bodenstein married into the family. Bodenstein’s passion for biodiversity and old terraces, coupled with brilliant winemaking, places Prager in the highest echelon of Austrian producers.
Smaragd is a designation of ripeness for dry wines used exclusively by members of the Vinea Wachau. The wines must have minimum alcohol of 12.5%. The grapes are hand-harvested, typically in October and November, and are sent directly to press where they spontaneously ferment in stainless-steel tanks.
Stockkultur is a 0.3-hectare plot at the top of Achleiten and was purchased by Toni Bodenstein in 2005. The name refers to the old style of training each vine to a single stake; the traditional method of vine cultivation in the Wachau before the 1950s. The vines planted in 1938 are among the oldest in the Wachau.
Tasting Notes:
Prager’s stylistic signature is that of aromatic complexity coupled with power and tension. High-density planting and long hang times ensure ripe fruit flavors and concentration, yet allowing leaves to shade the fruit lend vibrant aromatics of grasses, herbs, and wildflowers. Minerality is a constant feature of any Prager wine.
Food Pairing:
With minimum alcohol of 12.5%, Grüner Veltliner Smaragd is a concentrated and full-bodied dry white wine. Its intensity of flavor and ripeness of fruit make it ideal with high-integrity ingredients such as seared white fish or sautéed spring vegetables. Grüner Veltliner is a classic accompaniment to Wiener Schnitzel.
Review:
From vines planted in 1937 and picked as the first of the Smaragd wines, the 2020 Ried Achleiten Grüner Veltliner Smaragd Stockkultur (planted with 15,000 vines per hectare) opens with a spectacular deep and complex but refined, fresh and flinty bouquet with intense, ripe pear and biscuit aromas. On the palate, this is a dense and lush yet pure, elegant and complex, wide and powerful but also mineral Achleiten with a long, finely tannic and still sweet finish (due to more than 30 grams per liter of dry extract). Tasted at the domaine in June 2021.
At Prager, I could not determine that 2020 would be inferior to the 2019 vintage; on the contrary, the 2020 Smaragd wines fascinated me enormously in their clear, cool, terroir-tinged way. A 38% loss had occurred mainly because of the hail on August 22, although predominantly in the Federspiel or Riesling vineyards. There was no damage in the top vineyards such as Ried Klaus, Achleiten or Zwerithaler. "Interestingly, the vines are in agony for about two weeks after the hail. There was no more growth, no development of ripeness and sugar," reports Toni Bondenstein. The Veltliner then recovered earlier, while even picking a Riesling Federspiel in October was still a struggle. "Why Riesling reacted more intensively to the hail, I don't know myself either," says Bodenstein. Whole clusters were pressed to preserve acidity and to compensate for the lower extract, and compared to 2019, the 2020s were left on their lees longer. In June, however, the 20s in particular showed outstanding early shape.
-Wine Advocate 96 Points
Wolfberger Cremant d'Alsace Chardonnay NV is made with 100 percent Chardonnay.
The production of sparkling wine was already known in Alsace in the early 1900's. The Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée (A.O.C.) Crémant d’Alsace began with an official decree in August 1976.
Adorned with a beautiful dress of a brilliant golden yellow with green tints characteristic of the Chardonnay grape, this creamy reveals a fine and elegant cord of foam. The nose is expressive with light notes of toasted brioche. After a frank attack, the mouth is fresh thanks to a good balance sugar-acid. The feeling of fullness is supported by elegant flavors of almond and vanilla.
Xavier Vignon Arcane Etoile Beaumes de Venise Rouge is made from 70% Grenache, 20% Syrah and 10% Mourvèdre.
All the wines from the Arcane range are limited edition. They are the reflection of something extraordinary that happened in the vineyard. The Arcane Etoile is a multi vintage blend from 2015-2016-2017 that reveals the complexity and remarkable freshness of these high altitude Beaumes de Venise terroirs. Maceration with viognier skins.
The Beaumes de Venise terroir neighbours Gigondas and Vacqueyras. These Triassic soils (sand, limestone, clay) at the foothills of the Dentelles Sarrasines and the Grand Montmirail were specifically chosen for their high altitude (up to 600 metres above sea level) in order to impart freshness and elegance to the wine. The objective here was freshness and counterbalancing the impact of global warming.
It has something profound in its texture and balance. Notes of black raspberries, currants, dried flowers, lavender, and pepper are followed by a beautiful, full-bodied, elegant wine.
Pairs with porcini mushrooms in red wine - Foie gras - Piglet and prune stew - Honey glazed duck breast - Grilled swordfish - Dauphinois potatoes - Creamy garlic lentil and kale bake - Brie with walnuts
Review:
"Coming from the higher elevation sites, the NV Beaumes de Venise Arcane Etoile is another elegant, finesse-oriented wine from Xavier that has both richness and freshness. A blend of Grenache, Syrah, and Mourvèdre as well as a small amount of Viognier from 2015, 2016, and 2017, it has something profound in its texture and balance. Notes of black raspberries, currants, dried flowers, lavender, and pepper are followed by a beautiful, full-bodied, elegant wine that might just be one of the greatest red wines to come from Beaumes de Venise.” - Jeb Dunnuck (August 16th 2019), 95 pts
Xavier Vignon Beaumes de Venise Rouge is made from 60% Grenache Noir, 15% Syrah , 15% Mourvèdre and 10% Cinsault.
Thanks to the altitude all the grape varieties have been vinified together. The altitude vines have brought enough acidity to proceed with a burgundy style ageing with 50% in barrels of 3 to 5 years and 50% in stainless steel tanks.
It's full-bodied and lush, with waves of black cherries, hints of stone fruit and nuances of allspice, pepper and licorice on the long finish.
Pairs with roasted pigeon with wild basil - Rack of lamb with thyme - Pork ribs with a barbecue sauce - Peking duck - Wild boar braised in beer
Xavier Vignon Chateauneuf du Pape Rouge is made from 65% Grenache, 20% Mourvèdre and 15% Syrah.
A clear and very expressive nose with notes of black fruits, spices and licorice. The mouth reveals tanins that are already supple with a great balance.
The finish is long, on black fruits, licorice and a slight salinity.
Xavier Vignon Chateauneuf du Pape Rouge is made from grilled rib of beef, roasted duck with figs, boar stew.
Review:
"The ample nose of dried cherry, candied orange and fresh rosemary leads you into this rich, yet fresh Chateauneuf with fine tannins and enough acidity to keep it clean. Lively and moderately dry finish. A cuvee of 75% grenache, 10% syrah, 10% mourvedre and 5% clairette. Drink or hold."
- James Suckling (April 2023), 92 pts
Xavier Vignon Chateauneuf du Pape XV Rouge is made from 50% Grenache, 45% Mourvèdre and 5% Syrah. From 100 year old vines.
It shows a bit of toasty oak up front but balances that with ample black cherry fruit and soft, dusty tannins. Long and harmonious on the finish, it should drink well on release in 2019 and for a decade or more after that.
Pairs with beef with mustard sauce - Pork tenderloin with winter vegetables - Roasted duck - Malaysian pork chop and spice tea.
Review:
"A lovely example of what one of the Rhone Valley's top appellations is capable of producing. A bright saturated purple in the glass, the nose and palate are highlighted by berry and cherry fruit, with hints of spice. The palate reflects the nose, with warmth and spice, in addition to the exquisite red fruit."
- Beverage Dynamics (Spring 2024), 95 pts
Xavier Vignon Cotes du Rhone Rouge Cuvee Vieilles Vignes Organic is made from 50% Grenache, 40% Mourvèdre, 5% Syrah and 5% Cinsault.
The diversity of terroirs used in this blend allows this wine to combine freshness and balance.
We used Clay and limestone plots located on the hillside where old Grenache naturally express roasted hints. We could obtain in this wine empyreumatical hints without the use of barrels. These plots particular soils and orientation allowed grapes to reach an optimal level of ripeness while conserving a good acidity level.
We also integrated grapes coming from plots located on red rocky clay soils also named “garrigues”. These big red stone are restituting heat coming from the sun at night and bring power and structure to the wine.
Also the blend features vines coming from sandy clays, which are light and rather fresh soils: this allowed the wine to maintain a freshness and vivacity.
Bouquet of cassis, blueberries, lavender, cured meats, and graphite. It's deep, rich, medium to full-bodied, and has a great finish. The Mourvèdre keeps this tight and fresh.
Pairs with grilled beef rib - Veal Columbo - Pork ribs slightly spiced
Review:
"The spicy nose with a slew of red-fruit aromas pulls you into this full-bodied but lively and very well-balanced Cote-du-Rhone. Lovely, creamy texture that’s neatly supported by fine tannins. Long, supple finish. From organically grown grapes. Drink or hold."
- James Suckling (March 2022), 92 pts
Arzuaga Ladera del Norte Ribera del Duero is made from 100% Tempranillo.
The grapes come from organic crops and are harvested from the "Valdesardon" farm, owned by the Arzuaga Navarro family, which is the westernmost vineyard of the Ribera del Duero DO, located at an altitude of 800 meters in the village of Olivares de Duero. Clay-limestone soil on a hillside that will mark the characteristics of the wine.
The wine is of medium high intensity in color, a clear and bright cherry with purple flashes. An array of red fruits such as raspberry and cherry predominates with a high aromatic intensity, combining with balsamic tones, coffee and roasted notes coming from the aging in oak barrels without being overwhelming. This is a fresh and elegant wine, with an easy and balanced entry into the mouth followed by juicy and chewy sensations. Slightly sweet and toasted notes, and a pleasant and balanced aftertaste that is reminiscent of the fruity aromas on the nose.
Ideal companion for red meat, white meat, game and game, roasted or in sauce. Blue fish and soft cheeses.
Review:
"Intense cherry color. Aromas of dried herbs, creamy oak, black fruits and lactic notes. In the mouth, ripe fruits, spices, fine tannins, full-bodied."
- Penin 2022, 92 pts
Cabrieres Chateauneuf du Pape Rouge Les Silex is made from 80% Grenache and 20% Syrah .
The vineyard is situated on the high tablelands, which are characteristic of the northern area of Châteauneuf-du-Pape. The terrain consists mainly of alpine diluvium and chalky Miocenian soil, with large flint pebbles covering the surface. These pebbles conserve the heat of the day during the night, thus avoiding too much evaporation.
This 2020 has opened up and is drinking great right now. A blend of 80% Grenache and 20% Syrah. Elegant cherry red color, with expressive notes of red fruits (strawberry and raspberry). Mellow tannins, well-balanced on the palate. I feel I need to point out the freshness, it is bright and lively on the palate, something we don’t see a lot of in this region. This also makes it extremely food friendly as it can hold up to fatty proteins.
Very good with white meat, red meat, charcuterie and cheese.