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Pinot Noir is clearly the dedication of the Hartl Winery.
Strong garnet red, tending a little more towards brick-colored at the edge. On the nose, a complex abundance of herbs and dark berries, raspberry jam, thyme blossoms, dill, sage, violets and marzipan. Juicy on the palate, aromas of ripe raspberries, blueberries, rosehip tea and Mediterranean herbs, as well as hints of Assam tea. The elegant acidity gives a firm framework for the powerful body and highlights the fine-grained tannins. In addition to its classic ripe, typical Pinot fruit, the wine shows subtle notes of toast and smoked bacon in the long finish.
Pair with veal roast, leg of lamb with thyme and lemon, grilled Mediterranean vegetables, wild fowl like pheasant wrapped in bacon or duck with orange zest, prunes, roasted pumpkin and root vegetables.
Review:
"Deep crimson red with a purple hue, brightening on the rim. Ripe red fruit, floral nuances, a hint of cranberries, raspberry pulp and candied mandarin zest. Juicy, good complexity, red berry fruit, an attractive sweetness, well-integrated tannins, lingers, delicate notes of nougat in the aftertaste, full-bodied, versatile. - Peter MOSER"
- Falstaff (June 24th 2024), 93 pts
Hartl Rotgipfler Gumpoldskirchen Thermenregion DAC is made from 100% Rotgipfler.
The ancient Rotgipfler grape is packed with subtle fruit aromas of ripe peaches, juicy apricot and fresh pineapple. The inviting fruit aromas on the nose are complemented on the palate by orange zest, tangerine, vanilla and white pepper. Salty minerality supports a delicate structure with refined acidity.
The Rotgipfler grape has its name from the young shoots and veins of its leaves, which show a reddish (rot=red) color. It is indigenous to the Thermenregion and has become a rare variety, planted on about 120 ha only.
Acidity: 5.2 g/l
RS: 2.0 g/l
Excellent with intense spice (curry, chili, ginger, lemongrass) which can be found in Asian, Mexican and Italian cuisine.
Also counters its creamy texture with hollandaise and bechamel sauces, white meats, firm fish, poultry, Waldorff Salad or Eggs Benedict. A compliment also for mature cheeses, fig mustard and roasted nuts. Try Baked Camembert with honey, garlic and rosemary with a fresh baguette and salted butter.
Review:
"Pale golden yellow colour with silver reflections. Fresh yellow pears, delicate notes of meadow herbs and mango with fresh zest in the background. Medium body, fine nuances of white stone fruits, some melon, fine acidity, a lively food wine. - Peter MOSER"
- Falstaff (June 24th 2024), 92 pts
-150x300.jpg "Haut-Marbuzet Saint Estephe 2019")
Haut-Marbuzet Saint Estephe is made from 55% Merlot, 35% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Cabernet Franc and 5% Petit Verdot.
The characteristics of Haut-Marbuzet are mostly defined by its wine-producing methods.
The grapes are harvested once they are very ripe, then destalked. The maceration time is very long. Owner Henri Duboscq remains committed to using traditional materials, like concrete vats. They preserve the natural yeasts of past wines. Henri Duboscq says that he likes the idea that each year, the new yeasts revive the old ones, and the old influence the new.
The Duboscq were among the first to harvest overripe grapes. The wine is then matured in new oak barrels. Here, too, Haut-Marbuzet was among the first to use this production technique. All of these practices complete the characteristics of the terroir. They influence the color of the wine, its structure, its body, and finish.
Henri Duboscq often speaks of his love of unctuous wines, feminine wines that have fine, woody scents, with soft and ripe tannins. From this point of view, the wine of Haut-Marbuzet clearly stands apart from the classical wine of Saint Estèphe which is more virile, austere and astringent.
Tasting notes
Haut-Marbuzet shows a dark and intense color and a delicous bouquet of red and black fruit aromas, violet, pepper and coconut nuances. On the palate, the wine is rich and unctuous, with fine and peppery tannins that support the solid and fresh texture.
Review:
"Black and blue fruit, walnuts, gravy, vanilla, praline and cigar box on the nose. Full-bodied with fine tannins. Balanced, layered and polished with a fleshy texture. Harmonious, with elegance and intensity. Beautiful finish. Wow. Drink from 2025."
- James Suckling (January 2022), 96 pts
Dark crimson in color, with deep garnet hues. A concentrated array of aromas of mulberry, blackberry and dark plum indicate the richness to come, while savory and complex notes of charcuterie, cedar, sage and five spice tease the senses. Plush and velvety on the palate, the wine has intense fruit concentration with plum, red currant, blackberry and anise flavors, yet an enchantingly elegant and refined structure. Layers of silky tannins reveal the impressive depth of the wine before giving way to an incredibly long finish.
Review:
This has a very complex nose, offering so many facets of spices and fragrance with florals and orange peel, as well as crushed stones, ripe black cherries, blackberries and dark cherries, earth, chocolate and more. The intensity and power here is very tightly held and it has a build of such precise tannins, which carry very intense and assertively ripe blackberries, dark cherries, ripe plums and blueberries. So much on offer here. This has a very bold, intense feel. Exceptional vintage. One of their finest. Try from 2028.
-James Suckling 100 Points
Johann Michel Cornas is 100% Syrah
This Cornas is a blend from 2 different vineyard sites:
- 60% of the final blend is from vineyards located on a hillside (20 year old vines on the "coteau"), planted on sandy soils, decomposed granite and some rocks, giving the structure, spiciness and licorice flavors to the blend.
- the other 40% of the final blend comes from the bottom of the slope (45 years old vines on the "pied de coteau"), planted on sandy soils, bringing acidity and balance to the wine.
Expressive, deep, rich, silky and juicy. Well structured and round, it displays red fruit, leather, black cherry, liquorice and black berry aromas.
Review:
"Ripe black and blue fruits, violets, sappy herbs, and iron notes all emerge from the 2022 Cornas, a pretty, pure, medium to full-bodied Cornas offering fine, ripe tannins, a balanced, layered mouthfeel, and a great finish. The 2022 was completely destemmed and spent 12 months in oak."
- Jeb Dunnuck (Importer Highlight: Fran Kysela ; July 2024), 93 pts
Johann Michel Cornas Cuvee Mere Michel is made from 100 percent Syrah.
Cuvee Mère Michel was first introduced in 2016 and is not produced every year. This wine is a tribute to Johann Michel' wife, Emmanuelle, and a nod to the French song, La Mere Michel. This wines comes from Selection Massale (replanting new vineyards with cuttings from exceptional old vines from the same property) cuttings of Serine off the 1947 Yves Cuilleron vineyard at Chavanay. The vineyards are located in the lieu-dit "Les Cotes" at an altitude of 230 meters and benefiting from a southern sun exposure.
Review:
"Only made in top vintages, the 2018 Cornas Mère Michel is a tribute to Johann's wife and a play on the French song "La Mere Michelle." Brought up in a new demi-muid, it's a richer, broader wine compared to the Cuvée Jana yet still has incredible Cornas style in its red, black, and blue fruits as well as notes of toasted spice, roasted meat, chocolate, and wild herbs. Rich, full-bodied, and opulent, it has a touch more upfront appeal and should be drinkable in just 4-5 years yet also evolve for two decades." -
Jeb Dunnuck (Northern Rhône: The 2018s and 2019s, November 19th 2020), 98 pts
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Dr. Loosen Riesling Eiswein is made from 100 percent Riesling.
This vibrant, racy dessert wine conjures flavors of densely packed pear, apple and guava, with an intense, nervy edge in the aroma. It is luscious, silky and juicy on the palate, with bright acidity giving it a crisp, dynamic finish.
Review:
Obsidian Vineyard Syrah is bathed in terroir. The vines experience severe stress, pushing the roots ever deeper through rock in search of water, producing miniature clusters of intense power. Given the wine’s natural propensity for tannin, we take extreme care in the cellar to chisel/whittle its rough edges and leave room for richness to flatter its distinctive scaffold. The mid-palate supports flavors of roasted coffee beans, sarsaparilla, and dark chocolate. The finish marches on long after most wines have tired.
Our estate vineyard — the six-acre Obsidian Vineyard in the Knights Valley AVA — has an incredibly complex soil structure. It takes its name from a layer of volcanic obsidian rock that was discovered when we drilled for water.
Chocolate ganache, black currants, fig, graphite, and an expansive mouthfeel.
Review:
"Joe Donelan believes his Obsidian Vineyard is one of the world’s greatest sites for Syrah. I’ve visited the site twice, and can say candidly it certainly sits among the most striking vineyards I've ever laid eyes on within the U.S. It sits like a rock on a promontory—two switchbacks to reach the top—and the stones under the top soil, quite literally, never stop emerging from the ground. The place has an ancient, almost sacred, temple-like feel. It is consistently swept by afternoon breezes. The vineyard was replanted in 2017 after fires ravaged it. Winemaker David Milner laid out the site at denser spacing than before, at 2,000 vines per acre to keep yields per vine low while still achieving sensible tonnage, averaging around three tonnes per acre. Viognier was planted for co-fermentations, alongside some Cabernet Sauvignon, for a single vineyard bottling of that grape. ‘God put on his viticultural hat when he designed this site,’ says Milner. The vineyard is planted with ENTA 174, 877, and Alban 1 clones, along with Donelan Heritage selections certified virus-free. The wine, the 2023 vintage release (the first from the new vines), was aged for 21 months in 36% new oak and co-fermented with 1.8% Viognier, using 32% whole clusters. And it is positively gorgeous: composed of nine different blocks, each fermented separately, then assembled through sequential blending, with no racking until bottling. From just five-year-old vines, this wine is utterly extraordinary—something oddly achievable from young vines on rare occasion. I tasted this wine from the same bottle over three days. While the high-toned espresso-bean and cedar accents are present at first pull of the cork, they mellow out a day later, and the fruit profile is so vibrant. This is the sign of an excellent wine. I first tasted wines from the Donelan’s Obsidian Vineyard years ago at Tasting Panel Magazine in the late, great Anthony Dias Blue’s office. Cushing Donelan showed the wines, and to this day, I recall the first moment I put my nose into a glass of Obsidian Syrah. In early January of 2026, as I nosed this brand new release of Obsidian Syrah, I was transported straight back to that tasting twelve years ago. What’s remarkable is that the aromatics are unmistakably the same, yet from these new, more densely planted vines, the aromas are more refined—precision-farmed wines from young vines delivering a level of detail and poise that feels beyond their years. So what’s in the glass? Pure red, black, and blue fruit nuances layered with tobacco, white truffle character, violet pastille, and an intoxicating perfume. White pepper notes emerge on the medium- to full-bodied palate, framed by velvety tannins. Iron-like and crushed slate minerality underpins dazzling black cherry and blackberry fruit, brown spices, and blood orange richness. There’s a velvety, iron-fist quality here that exudes polish, complexity, and undeniable quality. You want to drink it now—and you absolutely can—but it will also reward time in the cellar. Either way, you’ll be utterly wowed. And when you realise the price is under £100, the achievement becomes even more staggering. As these vines mature, what will become of them in subsequent vintages? I suspect that as the vines mature, they'll go in and out of phases, but so long as Mother Nature cooperates, I expect this wine to continue to dazzle each vintage. - Jonathan CRISTALDI"
Decanter (January 5th 2026), 100 points
This is the first vintage of the Obsidian Syrah after wildfires torched the vineyard in 2017, leading to significant redevelopment. Throughout all those years, the Donelans have exhibited remarkable patience and a clear sense of purpose. This is their reward: a truly magnificent, towering wine of the highest level.
Knights Valley is one of the most magical grape-growing districts in the United States, but it is not very well known because only a few estate wineries are located there.
The 2023 Syria Obsidian Estate is one of the most profound, moving wines I have tasted in Sonoma County. Blackberry, gravel, incense, chocolate, lavender, and dried herbs race out of the glass. Delicate yet powerful, the 2023 is spectacular. It is also very fairly priced in today’s market.
Vinous 100 Points
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