Every now and then, in life and in wine, we are presented with unique opportunities to express ourselves and create something truly remarkable.
When rare opportunities arise, we need to capture, nurture and develop them so that their potential is fulfilled. So when Torbreck was given the opportunity to work with one of the most famous vineyards in the Barossa Valley, it became almost inevitable that the resulting wine would be truly remarkable.
In 2003, Torbreck growers and fourth generation descendants of the Seppelt family, Malcolm and Joylene Seppelt, asked our winemakers to create for them a small batch of Shiraz from their old Gnadenfrei vineyard in the sub-region of Marananga.
Planted in 1958, the five acre vineyard is traditionally dry grown and comes from an original Barossa clonal source. South facing, on the eastern side of a ridge separating the Seppeltsfield and Marananga appellations, these aged vines have been meticulously hand tended, traditionally farmed and pruned by a grower with a lifetime’s experience on Western Barossa soils of very dark, heavy clay loam over red friable clay. The resulting low yields of small, concentrated Shiraz berries make the vineyard the envy of all winemakers in the Barossa.
We looked longingly at the wine when it was returned to the Seppelts, knowing that it was the best we had ever made. In 2005 we convinced the Seppelts to sell Torbreck the fruit and The Laird was born. In 2013 Torbreck purchased the Gnadenfrei vineyard, securing The Laird’s reputation as one of the world’s great single vineyard Shiraz wines.
Torbreck is the name of a forest near Inverness, Scotland and you’ll find more than a passing nod to the Celts in our wine naming conventions. The Laird of the Estate in Scotland is the Lord of the Manor and master of all he surveys.
Review:
I poured the 2017 The Laird, set it aside and got about doing other jobs for 45 minutes or so, to give it some room to breathe. And it does breathe. It has its own pulse and beat and life, and it flexes and moves in the mouth. This is incredibly enveloping, with aromas reminiscent of campfire coals, charred eucalyptus, lamb fat, roasted beetroot, black tea and a prowling sort of countenance. In the mouth, the wine is bonded and cohesive and seamless, there are no gaps between anything, no space between fruit, oak and tannin; it all comes as one. While this is a singular wine, it is so big and concentrated that it needs no accompaniment other than some fresh air and a good mate. It's denser than osmium and is impenetrable at this stage.
We are delighted to offer our first Beckstoffer Georges III bottling in many years. The spectacular vineyard site with its back to the Silverado Trail is the historic site of the grand old BV masterpieces produced for most of the last century. It is as pure an expression of Napa Valley terroir as is available anywhere, from anyone. Ripe and round black fruits, spice, blueberry, and cedar, and cigar box aromas are echoed on the palate and balanced by a preternatural lift from natural acidity and a swell of earth notes. A stunning achievement.
Review:
Thick in sage brush, dried herb and earth, this wine is powerfully built and unabashedly ripe. Dark black fruit, mocha and graphite notes arise along the thick, intense palate, leading to finishing touches of slate and iron. Cellaring will help to tame the tannins; enjoy from 2028–2035.
-Cellar Selection Wine Enthusiast 94 Points
Weingut Prager Achleiten Riesling Smaragd is made from 100 percent Riesling.
Franz Prager, co-founder of the Vinea Wachau, had already earned a reputation for his wines when Toni Bodenstein married into the family. Bodenstein’s passion for biodiversity and old terraces, coupled with brilliant winemaking, places Prager in the highest echelon of Austrian producers.
Smaragd is a designation of ripeness for dry wines used exclusively by members of the Vinea Wachau. The wines must have a minimum alcohol of 12.5%. The grapes are hand-harvested, typically in October and November, and are sent directly to press where they spontaneously ferment in stainless-steel tanks.
Achleiten sits east of Weißenkirchen and is one of the most famous vineyards in the Wachau. The steeply-terraced vineyard existed in Roman times. Some sections have just 40 cm of topsoil over the bedrock of Gföler Gneiss, amphibolitic stone, and slate. “Destroyed soil,” as Toni Bodenstein likes to say.
Tasting Notes:
Austrian Riesling is often defined by elevated levels of dry extract thanks to a lengthy ripening period and freshness due to dramatic temperature swings between day and night. Wines from Achleiten’s highly complex soils are famously marked by a mineral note of flint or gun smoke, are intensely flavored, and reliably long-lived.
Food Pairing:
Riesling’s high acidity makes it one of the most versatile wines at the table. Riesling can be used to cut the fattiness of foods such as pork or sausages and can tame some saltiness. Conversely, it can highlight foods such as fish or vegetables in the same way a squeeze of lemon or a vinaigrette might.
Review:
The 2020 Ried Achleiten Riesling Smaragd offers a well-concentrated, fleshy and spicy stone fruit aroma with crunchy and flinty notes. It needs some time to get rid of the stewed fruit flavors, though. Full-bodied, fresh and crystalline, this is an elegant, complex and finely tannic Riesling that needs some years rather than a carafe to polymerize the tannins and gain some finesse. Tasted at the domain in June 2021.
At Prager, I could not determine that 2020 would be inferior to the 2019 vintage; on the contrary, the 2020 Smaragd wines fascinated me enormously in their clear, cool, terroir-tinged way. A 38% loss had occurred mainly because of the hail on August 22, although predominantly in the Federspiel or Riesling vineyards. There was no damage in the top vineyards such as Ried Klaus, Achleiten or Zwerithaler. "Interestingly, the vines are in agony for about two weeks after the hail. There was no more growth, no development of ripeness and sugar," reports Toni Bondenstein. The Veltliner then recovered earlier, while even picking a Riesling Federspiel in October was still a struggle. "Why Riesling reacted more intensively to the hail, I don't know myself either," says Bodenstein. Whole clusters were pressed to preserve acidity and to compensate for the lower extract, and compared to 2019, the 2020s were left on their lees longer. In June, however, the 20s in particular showed outstanding early shape.
-Wine Advocate 94 Points
Light yellow-green, silver reflections. Yellow stone fruit nuances with a mineral underlay, notes of peach and mango, a hint of tangerine zest, mineral touch. Juicy, elegant, white fruit, acidity structure rich in finesse, lemony-salty finish, sure aging potential.
-Falstaff 95 Points
Wolfberger Alsace Grand Cru Hengst Gewurztraminer is made from 100 percent Grand Cru Gewurztraminer.
Hengst means stallion in alsatian.
Floral nose, yellow fruits, sweet spices. The mouth is ample with the same aromatic.
Tangential filtration before bottling.Vinification in stainless steel tanks at 16°C then aging on fine lees until spring of the following year.
Full-bodied cheese (munster, époisses), curry, dessert with fresh fruit
Wolfberger Cremant d Alsace Rose Brut is 100 % Pinot Noir.
The wines from Alsace date back to 589 A.D., but Cremant d’Alsace has more recent beginnings, starting in 1900. Dopff au Moulin (founded in 1574) was the first to produce Cremant d’Alsace in the Method Champenoise style. Cremant d’Alsace received AOC status for sparkling wine in 1976. Two types of Cremant are produced today, resulting in about 2.5 million+ cases of Cremant d’Alsace production annually:
Wolfberger's Cremant d'Alsace Rose Brut displays a lovely delicate salmon color with active, small bubbles. Round and full-bodied, this Cremant Rose displays beautiful watermelon and strawberry aromas cascading in a smooth finish. A minimum of 15 months bottle aging before disgorging ensures ripeness.
Ziata Meteor Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon is made from 100 percent Cabernet Sauvignon.
Bold and intense, this Cabernet Sauvignon from the Meteor Vineyard in Coombsville is full-bodied and berry-driven, with rich spice undertones and a firm structure.
After 20 years of marketing Napa Valley and its wines, Karen Cakebread launched her own project in 2008 with two major goals in mind: to create beautifully structured wines that reflect the vineyards from which they come, and to be involved in every aspect of making the wines.Karen started ZIATA, named in honor of her mother, Mary Annunziata, in 2008 with three varietals: Cabernet Franc, Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir, which she chose for their food-friendly qualities. She hired Anne Vawter, a protégée of Heidi Barrett, as winemaker and sourced grapes from sustainable sources, working closely with the grape growers through the growing season, knowing that efforts made in the vineyard would create better wine than those manipulated in the cellar. Jennifer Williams : I find winemaking to be both an art and a trade—you learn by doing and working the vineyards, ensuring the fruit is the best it can be long before it’s picked is at least half the work of the winemaker.
Varietal-100% Bonarda
Vineyard- El Mirador Vineyard in Rivadavia, 2,132 ft. Elevation. Soil composed of mostly sand.
Ageing & Vinification- Wild Yeasts with 25 days maceration , 12 Months ageing in 100-year-old foudre.
Tech Data- 13.5% ABV, Acidity 6.1, pH-3.7
Review:
Sour cherries, blueberries and spice box on the nose. Medium-to full-bodied with firm tannins. Savory and fleshy on the palate with some structure, leading to a flavorful and fruity finish. One of the best bonardas out there. Try after 2023.
-James Suckling 94 Points
Gambellara Lessini Durello Spumante Brute is 100% Durella.
Color: Soft and bright straw yellow
Bouquet: A citrus fresh fruit bouquet
Taste: Slightly acid, fresh, with green apple hints
Perlage: A fine and persistent perlage
The grapes are collected and transported to the winery in small trailers to prevent the grapes from being squashed, then follows immediate separation of the skins from the stalks purifying of the must and long fermentation at 18 °C.
This is a Charmat method (The secondary fermentation didn't take place in the bottle, but in a vat, which makes it slightly different than the Champenoise method used in Champagne).
To serve with seafood starters, soups, egg dishes, shellfish, seafood and white meat. Very good as aperitif. The perfect match is with the "Baccalà alla Vicentina", the traditional dish of our land.