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Donelan Hillside Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2023


The nose of our the Cabernet Sauvignon shows remarkable purity, opening with juicy fruit-punch and layered notes of blue and red fruit dried with sweet herbs. The palate builds with blackberry pie filling, baker’s chocolate, and freshly ground coffee, underscored by an earthiness of loam and underbrush. Acidity is finely tuned, carrying structure through the middle and sides of the wine. For those who can wait, cellar this bottle for several years. For those who cannot, double decant 4–5 hours before serving and let the wine come fully alive.

Blackberry pie filling, baker’s chocolate, freshly ground coffee, earthy loam and underbrush, red and blue fruit dried with sweet herbs

Review:

"How do you do Cabernet the Donelan way—and do it in Sonoma? The answer began with archetyping older styles of Cabernet. The vineyard lies near Skipstone, encompassing sites such as T-T Vineyard, Obsidian, and Constant on Diamond Mountain. For Joe Donelan, the goal was to craft a Cabernet reminiscent of what Mondavi was producing in the 1970s and early 1980s—wines defined by freshness, clarity, and balance rather than sheer weight. The result is vivid, bright, and pure-fruited, with an immediate freshness factor. Red berry fruit, cherry, and cassis lead the way, framed by a medium-bodied structure with velvety-textured tannins and a creamy mid-palate that makes the wine deeply engaging and remarkably easy to drink. Sagebrush and black olive notes lend savoury complexity, joined by subtle hints of tobacco, all carrying through to a long, mineral-driven, fruit-focused finish. - Jonathan CRISTALDI"

Decanter (January 5th 2026), 97 points

 97 Points
Donelan Knight's Valley Obsidian Vineyard Syrah 2023


Obsidian Vineyard Syrah is bathed in terroir. The vines experience severe stress, pushing the roots ever deeper through rock in search of water, producing miniature clusters of intense power. Given the wine’s natural propensity for tannin, we take extreme care in the cellar to chisel/whittle its rough edges and leave room for richness to flatter its distinctive scaffold. The mid-palate supports flavors of roasted coffee beans, sarsaparilla, and dark chocolate. The finish marches on long after most wines have tired.

Our estate vineyard — the six-acre Obsidian Vineyard in the Knights Valley AVA — has an incredibly complex soil structure. It takes its name from a layer of volcanic obsidian rock that was discovered when we drilled for water.

Chocolate ganache, black currants, fig, graphite, and an expansive mouthfeel.

Review:

"Joe Donelan believes his Obsidian Vineyard is one of the world’s greatest sites for Syrah. I’ve visited the site twice, and can say candidly it certainly sits among the most striking vineyards I've ever laid eyes on within the U.S. It sits like a rock on a promontory—two switchbacks to reach the top—and the stones under the top soil, quite literally, never stop emerging from the ground. The place has an ancient, almost sacred, temple-like feel. It is consistently swept by afternoon breezes. The vineyard was replanted in 2017 after fires ravaged it. Winemaker David Milner laid out the site at denser spacing than before, at 2,000 vines per acre to keep yields per vine low while still achieving sensible tonnage, averaging around three tonnes per acre. Viognier was planted for co-fermentations, alongside some Cabernet Sauvignon, for a single vineyard bottling of that grape. ‘God put on his viticultural hat when he designed this site,’ says Milner. The vineyard is planted with ENTA 174, 877, and Alban 1 clones, along with Donelan Heritage selections certified virus-free. The wine, the 2023 vintage release (the first from the new vines), was aged for 21 months in 36% new oak and co-fermented with 1.8% Viognier, using 32% whole clusters. And it is positively gorgeous: composed of nine different blocks, each fermented separately, then assembled through sequential blending, with no racking until bottling. From just five-year-old vines, this wine is utterly extraordinary—something oddly achievable from young vines on rare occasion. I tasted this wine from the same bottle over three days. While the high-toned espresso-bean and cedar accents are present at first pull of the cork, they mellow out a day later, and the fruit profile is so vibrant. This is the sign of an excellent wine. I first tasted wines from the Donelan’s Obsidian Vineyard years ago at Tasting Panel Magazine in the late, great Anthony Dias Blue’s office. Cushing Donelan showed the wines, and to this day, I recall the first moment I put my nose into a glass of Obsidian Syrah. In early January of 2026, as I nosed this brand new release of Obsidian Syrah, I was transported straight back to that tasting twelve years ago. What’s remarkable is that the aromatics are unmistakably the same, yet from these new, more densely planted vines, the aromas are more refined—precision-farmed wines from young vines delivering a level of detail and poise that feels beyond their years. So what’s in the glass? Pure red, black, and blue fruit nuances layered with tobacco, white truffle character, violet pastille, and an intoxicating perfume. White pepper notes emerge on the medium- to full-bodied palate, framed by velvety tannins. Iron-like and crushed slate minerality underpins dazzling black cherry and blackberry fruit, brown spices, and blood orange richness. There’s a velvety, iron-fist quality here that exudes polish, complexity, and undeniable quality. You want to drink it now—and you absolutely can—but it will also reward time in the cellar. Either way, you’ll be utterly wowed. And when you realise the price is under £100, the achievement becomes even more staggering. As these vines mature, what will become of them in subsequent vintages? I suspect that as the vines mature, they'll go in and out of phases, but so long as Mother Nature cooperates, I expect this wine to continue to dazzle each vintage. - Jonathan CRISTALDI"

Decanter (January 5th 2026), 100 points


This is the first vintage of the Obsidian Syrah after wildfires torched the vineyard in 2017, leading to significant redevelopment. Throughout all those years, the Donelans have exhibited remarkable patience and a clear sense of purpose. This is their reward: a truly magnificent, towering wine of the highest level.

Knights Valley is one of the most magical grape-growing districts in the United States, but it is not very well known because only a few estate wineries are located there.

The 2023 Syria Obsidian Estate is one of the most profound, moving wines I have tasted in Sonoma County. Blackberry, gravel, incense, chocolate, lavender, and dried herbs race out of the glass. Delicate yet powerful, the 2023 is spectacular. It is also very fairly priced in today’s market.

Vinous 100 Points

 Vinous Antonio Galloni: 100 100 Points
Dr. Leimbrock Mulheimer Sonnenlay Riesling Spatlese 2019

Dr. Leimbrock Mulheimer Sonnenlay Riesling Spatlese is made from 100 percent Riesling. 

A classic in the residual sweet range that impresses with filigree fruit and mineral spiciness.
The circulating mountain "Mülheimer Sonnenlay" represents a geographical feature of the Moselle. Due to the strong meandering of the Moselle, the mountain was surrounded by the course of the river in geological development in such a way that a so-called circulating mountain arose from it. Located in the northeast-southwest direction, vines are cultivated on both sides of the mountain. The site name "Sonne" and "Lay" (Mosel Franconian for slate) combines the most important prerequisites for the cultivation of Riesling vines. Soils are skeletal-rich, weathered clay-ish shale enriched with sand, stones, and clay. At the beginning of the 1930s, the Mülheim winegrowers proudly pointed out that the local wine was served in the elegant restaurant of the airship "Graf Zeppelin" on its world trips and was obviously very popular.

Pair with spicy dishes, soft cheese, cakes.

DuMol Estate Vineyard Sonoma Coast Chardonnay 2022


Winemaker’s Notes


Our organically farmed high-density Estate parcel sits at the top of the ridge amongst the diverse coastal forest. Although the soil is sandy, there’s a vein of clay in the subsoil that holds winter rain and allows us to dry-farm the vines. The tight spacing keeps the clusters and soil shaded during the summer heat, which allows the fruit to retain all the nuance of the site. The wine produced here has a character - a signature - all to itself and cannot be replicated elsewhere; it's the antithesis of fruity, forward, easy-to-understand Californian Chardonnay. The grapes are small with thick skins, producing a high level of fruit extract, which translates to deep texture and structure in the wine itself. Concentration allied to freshness is the essence of this wine, and it ages beautifully in bottle for ten to twelve years. 

The wine’s aromas and flavors are incredibly complex and diverse, akin to citrus oil, preserved lemon, sage, fennel and caraway. The wine is deep, powerful, and layered with oyster shell freshness cutting through the natural density. Lemongrass, spearmint, and grapefruit power the finish, which pulsates with intensity. You could decant this for an hour before serving to hasten its development. Drink between 2025 and 2030. Serve no cooler than 55º F. 

Review:

From a site surrounded by dense forest on two sides, the 2022 Chardonnay DuMOL Estate Vineyard is a bright straw hue and has a more vibrant aromatic nose of fresh mint, bright lime, flint, crushed stones, and white peach. Medium to full-bodied, it boasts a remarkably firm structure with a bit of tannin, a chalky texture, and a savory slanting profile, and it’s long and persistent on the finish. It has an assertive but crystalline feel and a crunchy brightness. It demands a bit of time. Drink 2025-2035.

-Jeb Dunnuck 96 Points

 96 Points
Es Lo Que Hay Garnacha 2019

Es Lo Que Hay Garnacha is made from 95% Garnacha, 5% Moristel, Miguel de Arco and Provechón (Bobal). 75 to 100 year old vines. 

“ES LO QUE HAY -  it is what it is. A common Spanish expression, but one I like to reserve for the few old high altitude Garnacha vineyards that survive in Aragon . What you taste in the bottle is a true expression of what there is in the vineyard. It´s as simple as that.”

High altitude ancient vineyards (75-100 years) at 1,000 to 1,100 meters above sea level with Pizarra slate and quartzite soils. Completely dry grown and unirrigated, this is an inhospitable continental climate with extreme changes of temperature where mountain herbs, almonds, cherry trees and Garnacha form a breathtaking patchwork. Low annual rainfall of 200-300mm and the remarkable soils produce fine and elegant Garnacha which is punctuated by intense black fruit flavors with complex mineral, smoke and garrigue notes.

Review:

"The red 2019 Es Lo Que Hay is mostly old-vine Garnacha with 5% other grapes, mostly Moristel with a little Miguel de Arco and some Provechón (Bobal), from very stony old vineyards in the village of Villarroya de la Sierra. The grapes fermented together with 20% full clusters in concrete and were destemmed after a five-day cold soak with the natural yeasts; then the wine matured mostly in concrete with some leftovers in Flextank egg for 15 months. It's ripe without excess (14.26% real alcohol), balanced by low pH and good acidity and has a powerful Mediterranean profile, round and full-bodied, with hints of dry hay and straw and a touch of dark chocolate. The 2019s are evolving nicely and should have a positive development in bottle, and this is a good example. 8,270 bottles produced. It was bottled in December 2020. - Luis Gutiérrez"

- Robert Parker's Wine Advocate (November 2021), 93 pts

"The 2019 Garnacha Vinas Viejas is just about all Grenache (there are small amounts of Moristel, Miguel de Arco, and Bobal) from ancient vines that saw a touch of stems and aging in concrete tanks. This plump, medium to full-bodied, round, downright sexy beauty gives up lots of ripe red and black fruits as well as peppery spice, herbes de Provence, and sandalwood. It's balanced, has supple, incredibly polished tannins, no hard edges, and is just a beautiful Garnacha that has so much to love. It will keep for 5-7 years, if not longer."

- Jeb Dunnuck (August 2022), 93 pts


 Vinous Antonio Galloni: 93
Ferren Chardonnay Sonoma Coast 2022

Ferren Chardonnay Sonoma Coast is made from 100 percent Chardonnay.

 The Sonoma Coast bottling is a blend of barrels from Ferren's single vineyard offerings; Lancel Creek, Silver Eagle, Volpert, and Frei Road Vineyards. The wine is always somewhat more approachable early in its life as less new oak is used in the blend. Pure and translucent fruit is the hallmark of this cuvée. Citrus, quince, sea spray, and minerals are buoyed by refreshing acidity and a seamless finish.


Review:

A nuanced, tangy, mouthwatering and approachable wine that is both complex and very drinkable. The aromas are delicate, lifted and fresh, with oyster shells, lime zest, white flowers and chamomile. The palate is super fresh, layering salinity, richness and a long finish. Medium- to full-bodied. Drink or hold

-James Suckling 98 Points

 98 Points
Finca La Pared Graciano 2019

Finca La Pared Graciano is made from 100 percent Graciano. 

Finca La Pared Graciano is a powerful graciano that is perfectly integrated with the oak. It shows remarkable notes of fresh spices and dark fruit. Reserved, serene, deep black. Restrained feel.

Review:

"The creamy, cedary oak has seeped into the minty blackberry and blue fruit, with deep notes of cocoa powder and tar. Restrainedly plush and flavorful, with a concentrated and full-bodied palate. Dense and silky with a little warmth in the finish. Drink or hold."

- James Suckling (June 2022), 93 pts




 93 Points
Flaunt Pinot Noir Santa Rita Hills 2021

Flaunt Pinot Noir Santa Rita Hills is made from 100 percent Pinot Noir. 

A lively pinot noir which is forward on the nose. Medium bodied with red fruits - berries currant raspberry. Savory, very slightly herbal with a medium tannins on the finish. Gains on the palate as it opens up. Good acidity, focused fruit, integrated tannins.


There is no measurable residual sugar.
Total Acidity is 6.4
pH is 3.42.


Flaunt Russian River Valley Sparkling Brut 2019

Flaunt Russian River Valley Sparkling Brut is made from 52% Chardonnay and 48% Pinot Noir.

This Brut is absolutely lovely. It is drier than the previous versions with only 1.5 grams of residual sugar. It is powerful and brisk with well integrated bubbles. There is an immediate hit of lemon zest with touches of nectarine and plum. Mid palate you notice the warm notes of brioche and a slight kick of white pepper on the finish.

This Russian River Valley Brut is a blend of wine from two vineyards in the Russian River Valley. It is approximately equal parts Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. These two grapes work wonderfully in Sonoma County’s maritime climate where the long, cool growing season allows for adequate ripeness of both Pinot Noir and Chardonnay while maintaining superb levels of natural acidity. Dianna Novy always loved the Russian River Valley for Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, first as still wines, and now as Sparkling Wine.

Review:

"This crisp Brut offers fresh aromas and flavors of ripe pear and apple with a leesy fresh bread note. It is mouth filling with fresh acidity and has a sense of refinement, finishing long and chalky. Try it with oysters. A blend of 52% Chardonnay and 48% Pinot Noir with 3 years en tirage."

- I-winereview.com (December 2022), 92 pts


 International Wine Review: 92
Gaudrelle Cremant de Loire Sparkling Brut NV

Made from 50% chenin blanc and 50% chardonnay

It is an interesting experience as a sparkling wine for people who want to have a fine and elegant wine comparable to Champagne for a very good price.

This methode traditionnelle sparkling wine is aged for minimum 18-24 months in cave before disgorging. The dosage is 12 g/l residual sugar and the wine is aged for minimum 3 months after disgorging .

Review:


"The two sparkling wines should not be missed. They're both terrific examples of how good sparkling Vouvray can be. Both are 100% Chenin Blanc cuvees. Even better is the slightly richer, more honey and lemon-scented and flavored non-vintage Cremant de Loire. A blend of equal parts Chenin Blanc and Chardonnay aged for a minimum of 18 to 24 months in their cellars before disgorgement, this is a real beauty and a superb wine. Unfortunately, just under 100 cases are imported to the United States." -Wine Advocate 92 pts


 Wine Advocate: 92
Gessinger Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Beerenauslese 2020 (half-bottle)

Gessinger Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Beerenauslese is made from 100 percent Riesling. 

This deep yellow-colored wine offers a quite aromatic nose made of mirabelle, ripe apple, almond cream, date, ether oil, and earthy spices. It proves nicely complex and delicately oily on the otherwise focused and delicately racy palate, and leaves a subtly unctuous and still quite sweet feel of honeyed dried fruits, starfruit, kumquat, and almond cream in the precise and persistent finish. Some fresher elements of citrusy fruits and grapefruit already lighten up the aftertaste and hint at the greatness to come. This beautiful dessert wine is still really in its infancy but will develop into quite a beauty at maturity, once the candy floss driven sweetness will have receded into the background.

The Riesling Beerenauslese remains on the lees for several months to add a creamy texture to the mineral notes and to enhance the mouth-feel and drinkability.Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Beerenauslese Alte Reben was made from botrytized fruit hand-picked at a whopping 150° Oechsle from old ungrafted vines, spontaneously fermented and vegan. Fermentation with preferably wild yeasts gives this wine a unique and authentic taste, reflecting the extreme vineyard sites of the Mosel Valley. A cool temperature allows a slow fermentation which can continue for as long as the wine and the vintage requires.

Perfect match to sweet-and-sour dishes as well as spicy food.




Gessinger Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Spatlese St. Josef 2022

Gessinger Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Spatlese St. Josef is made from 100 percent Riesling. 

The Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese St. Josef - formerly know as Josefsberg- was produced from fruit harvested from 120-year-old vines in a prime Rothlay part of the vineyard known locally as Josefsberg, next to the cross of St. Josef - the patron of vineyard growers. Here grow old, ungrafted Riesling vines whose particular small and loose grapes develop a lot of aroma.


It was made from fruit picked at the end of the harvest and was fermented down to sweet levels of residual sugar. It offers a backward nose made of white peach, melon, smoke, herbs, and minerals. On the pleasant racy palate and the wine leaves a beautiful feel of ripe fruits packed into zesty minerals in the finish. The featherlight side of this Spätlese paired with its flavor intensity are simply a thing of beauty. However, during the years this wine will reveal all its facets.


Perfect match to Asian cuisine as well as spicy food.

Graham's Stone Terraces Vintage Port 2021

The Stone Terraces 2021 Vintage Port has incredibly fresh and lifted aromas with the hallmark tropical fruit character. The wine is concentrated whilst being supremely refined with polished tannins and taut acidity combining to deliver sublime elegance and balance.


An extraordinary edition of The Stone Terraces Vintage Port – only the fifth ever produced – which delights the senses now and will age beautifully for decades.


The Year 
The 2021 growth cycle and harvest were one of the coolest in recent years, with moderate conditions encouraging slower, gradual maturations with balanced ripening. The remarkably cool nights through the harvest contributed to wines with excellent acidity and very good colour.
 
Tasting 
The Stone Terraces 2021 Vintage Port has incredibly fresh and lifted aromas with the hallmark tropical fruit character. The wine is concentrated whilst being supremely refined with polished tannins and taut acidity combining to deliver sublime elegance and balance.
 
Storage & Serving 
Store the bottle lying down. Decant to filter the natural sediment before serving. Enjoy within 2-3 days of opening.

 Review:

What a polished and beautifully structured vintage port with ultra-fine tannins that run the length of the wine. It’s medium-bodied with a terrific intensity and brightness. Seems slightly drier than normal for a Graham’s vintage. Fantastically fine tannins. Black berries and tangerines with other tropical fruits. Hints of nuts at the end. Racy and muscular.

-James Suckling 95 Points

 95 Points
Grand Veneur Chateauneuf du Pape Rouge Les Origines 2020 (magnums)

Grand Veneur Chateauneuf-du-Pape Rouge Les Origines is made from 50% Grenache, 30% Mourvedre and 20% Syrah

Matured in vats (grenache) and in oak casks (syrah and mourvèdre).

Deep and brilliant, purple-red colour. An exciting nose with aromas of black fruit (blackcurrant, cherry) spices and vanilla. This great aromatic complexity is found on the palate : the spices and ripe fruit appear with an elegant woodiness and harmonious tannins. The finish has good aromatic length and introduces a touch of liquorice and pepper.

A terrific Châteauneuf du Pape with great concentration and finesse.

Best between 2 and 20 years. Best to decant if young (less than 5 years old).

Soil type Extreme north of Châteauneuf du Pape. This plateau is made with a high quantity of red clay mixed with rocks. This area is considerated to be one of the best to produce rich and powerful red wines. By definition, LES ORIGINES will always deliver a great complexity and ageing potential. Winemaking & ageing Harvest is sorted by hand, destemmed and crushed. Fermentation temperature is controlled at 30°C. Vatting period of 18 to 20 days. Matured in vats (grenache) and in oak casks (syrah and mourvèdre).

Review:

"The huge nose of violet pastilles, mulberries, smoked bacon and a touch of hot asphalt pulls you into this expansive but beautifully balanced Chateauneuf that’s packed with fine, powdery tannin. So much bitter-chocolate character, but this exactly matches the deep fruit and, at the long crescendo finish, there are fascinating balsamic and hot dry-earth touches. Drinkable now, but best from 2025."

- James Suckling (March 2022), 94 pts






 94 Points
Grand Veneur Chateauneuf-du-Pape Rouge Les Origines 2021

Grand Veneur Chateauneuf-du-Pape Rouge Les Origines is made from 50% Grenache, 30% Mourvedre and 20% Syrah

Matured in vats (grenache) and in oak casks (syrah and mourvèdre).

Deep and brilliant, purple-red colour. An exciting nose with aromas of black fruit (blackcurrant, cherry) spices and vanilla. This great aromatic complexity is found on the palate : the spices and ripe fruit appear with an elegant woodiness and harmonious tannins. The finish has good aromatic length and introduces a touch of liquorice and pepper.

A terrific Châteauneuf du Pape with great concentration and finesse.

Best between 2 and 20 years. Best to decant if young (less than 5 years old).

Soil type Extreme north of Châteauneuf du Pape. This plateau is made with a high quantity of red clay mixed with rocks. This area is considerated to be one of the best to produce rich and powerful red wines. By definition, LES ORIGINES will always deliver a great complexity and ageing potential. Winemaking & ageing Harvest is sorted by hand, destemmed and crushed. Fermentation temperature is controlled at 30°C. Vatting period of 18 to 20 days. Matured in vats (grenache) and in oak casks (syrah and mourvèdre).

Review:


"The full dry tannins shape the personality of this bold and crisp Chateauneuf. Aromas of dry earth, savory and black pepper. Seriously structured finish where the tannins need some time to resolve. A cuvee of 50% grenache, 30% mourvedre and 20% syrah. From organically grown grapes. Drinkable now, but best from 2025."

- James Suckling (April 2023), 92 pts






 92 Points
Hartford Court Three Jacks Chardonnay 2019

Hartford Court Three Jacks Chardonnay is made from 100 percent Chardonnay. 

The Three Jacks Vineyard Chardonnay exhibits aromas of lemon curd, orange marmalade, and brioche, with juicy flavors of pear, candied citrus peel, chamomile, and a rich, mineral-driven texture. The wine is full-bodied, weighty, and rich yet remarkably agile on its feet because of firm underlying acidity.


Review:

The 2019 Chardonnay Three Jacks Vineyard, from vines planted in 1995, was barrel fermented and matured in 31% new French oak for 14 months. It's one of the best iterations I've tasted, combining expansive flavor and texture with precise, laser-like acidity. It offers delicate, pure scents of apricot, dried tarragon, white pepper and citrus blossoms with a stony undercurrent. The medium-bodied palate has dynamic energy from its oily texture and shimmery acidity, and it finishes with tense, mineral-driven flavors. It has much more to give as it unfurls in bottle and will be long lived in the cellar.

- Robert Parker's Wine Advocate 95 Points

 Wine Advocate: 95
Holocene The Black Square Cabernet Sauvignon 2022

Holocene The Black Square Cabernet Sauvignon is made from 100 percent Cabernet Sauvignon. 

There is something ethereal about Cabernet Sauvignon grown in the cobblestone soils of the Walla Walla Valley.  This region offers aromatic exuberance, elegance, finesse, a polished texture, layered complexity, and remarkable length. It is a place where one can craft a singular, stand-alone example of this varietal—unique not only in the United States but worldwide—while still echoing some of our favorite wines from Bordeaux.

In 2022, Winemaker Todd Alexander embarked on a new (yet familiar) journey that he had been patiently awaiting the perfect moment to explore. The Black Square is in its inaugural vintage, and this 2022 is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon grown in the Rocks District of Milton-Freewater, Oregon, which is part of the Walla Walla Valley.

The Black Square embodies elegance and grace framed by great structure, supple texture, and acidity to ensure longevity. It shows ample fruit with complex savory notes. This is not a heavy wine that is monolithic and dull—there are already plenty of those available. This wine offers a unique expression of Cabernet; it may be the most delicious wine Todd Alexander has ever crafted, venturing into new territory for Rocks District Cabernet Sauvignon.

Review:

As black as squid ink, The Black Square is balance personified. A concentrated blackberry aroma seems as dark as the wine's name, with equally dark espresso, olive and charred steak notes joining it in the abyss. A dark plum and ripe boysenberry flavor combo is accompanied by traces of salty Mission olives, wet slate and silky smooth tannins. The one bright feature illuminating the way is the wine's amped-up acidity. None so black

-Wine Enthusiast 98 Points Number 5 in the Top 100

 Wine Enthusiast: 98
Johann Michel Cornas Cuvee Mere Michel 2018

Johann Michel Cornas Cuvee Mere Michel is made from 100 percent Syrah.

Cuvee Mère Michel was first introduced in 2016 and is not produced every year. This wine is a tribute to Johann Michel' wife, Emmanuelle, and a nod to the French song, La Mere Michel. This wines comes from Selection Massale (replanting new vineyards with cuttings from exceptional old vines from the same property) cuttings of Serine off the 1947 Yves Cuilleron vineyard at Chavanay. The vineyards are located in the lieu-dit "Les Cotes" at an altitude of 230 meters and benefiting from a southern sun exposure.


Review:


"Only made in top vintages, the 2018 Cornas Mère Michel is a tribute to Johann's wife and a play on the French song "La Mere Michelle." Brought up in a new demi-muid, it's a richer, broader wine compared to the Cuvée Jana yet still has incredible Cornas style in its red, black, and blue fruits as well as notes of toasted spice, roasted meat, chocolate, and wild herbs. Rich, full-bodied, and opulent, it has a touch more upfront appeal and should be drinkable in just 4-5 years yet also evolve for two decades." -

Jeb Dunnuck (Northern Rhône: The 2018s and 2019s, November 19th 2020), 98 pts


 98 Points
Kershaw Chardonnay Deconstructed Groenland Shale CY548 2017

Kershaw Chardonnay Deconstructed Groenland Shale CY548 is made from 100 percent Chardonnay.

The inspiration for this Chardonnay stems from my belief that the Elgin region has both a signature grape as well as particular terroirs within its demarcated boundary that reflect regional credentials. This Chardonnay was selected from a sub-region of Elgin from a specific vineyard and an individual clone (CY548).

Tasting Notes:

Sourced from the foothills of the Groenland Mountain in Northern Elgin this clone has been taken from Corton Charlemagne cuttings. It produces wines that have aromatics oscillating between lemon blossom, white flowers, petrichor and struck stone. Full in body they exude concentration with white stone fruit yet reinforced with an austere texture and robustness that makes for excellent aging potential. The Bokkeveld Shales adds structure and concentration to the flavor.

Vineyards: 

Sourced from the foothills of the Groenland Mountain in Northern Elgin this clone has been taken from Corton Charlemagne cuttings.

Winemaking: 

Grapes were hand-picked in the early autumnal mornings, placed into small lug baskets and tipped directly into a press before being gently whole-bunch pressed up to a maximum of 0.6 bar or until a low juice recovery of 580 liters per ton was obtained. The juice gravity-flowed directly to barrel (no pumps were used at all) without settling. The unclarified juice had no enzymes or yeast added to it and therefore underwent spontaneous fermentation until dry, with malolactic discouraged. The wine rested in barrel for 4 months prior to judicious sulfuring and a further 7 months’ maturation in barrel before racking and bottling.

Barrel: Selection: A small number of artisanal coopers are selected from mostly Burgundy, with only French oak was chosen. Up to 40% of the oak is new with the remainder split into 2nd and 3rd fill barrels of predominantly 228 litres.

Look at pairing this with textured fish, straightforward chicken dishes, pan-fried or grilled pork dishes, soft-rind cheeses, cream or creamy dishes be it with pasta or the aforementioned fish, chicken or pork, to allow the complexity of the wine to shine through. If using mustard, preferably use Dijon mustard as it uses verjus (soured grape juice) and not vinegar. Also look to delicate herbs (tarragon, dill, basil, parsley) rather than hard stalked herbs (rosemary, thyme, oregano, etc). Avoid smoked meats or fish as well as highly spiced dishes as this can overwhelm the wine and clash with the oak. I would try oysters; Lobster grilled or boiled but not thermidor as it is too rich; turbot, dover sole, sea bass, yellowtail with a shellfish sauce; fish pie; roasted free-range chicken with tarragon; roast loin of pork with garlic and ginger; truffle risotto; pasta in a clam sauce; slice of brie de meaux.

Review:

"Perfume of flowers, minerals and citrus zest. The palate is dense and focused, almost chewy with an opulent mandarin mid palate and long, savory finish. Matured in 50% new oak that is seamlessly integrated with the wine."

- International Wine Review (Richard Kershaw Lifts Elgin To New Heights, February 2019), 94 pts



 94 Points
Kershaw Syrah Deconstructed Lake District Cartref SH22 2017

Kershaw Syrah Deconstructed Lake District Cartref SH22 is made from 100 percent Syrah.

The inspiration for this Syrah stems from my belief that the Elgin region has both a signature grape as well as particular terroirs within its demarcated boundary that reflect regional credentials. This Syrah was selected from a sub-region of Elgin from a specific vineyard and an individual clone.

Sourced from a single parcel in the Western part of Elgin, the 22 clone produces fuller, well-colored yet finely structured wines. They tend to be more concentrated as yields are low with more black fruit, black pepper and meaty notes. The Cartref soils, a mixture of decomposed sandstone, pebbles and quartz, add gracefulness and heighten the fruit intensity.

The grapes were handpicked under autumnal skies into small lug baskets and then manually sorted on a conveyor before the stems were removed. The destemmed berries fell onto a vibrating table in order to remove jacks and substandard berries before dropping uncrushed into a small 500kg conical hopper and forklifted into open-topped fermenters. The grapes underwent a 3-day maceration before spontaneous fermentation began. A gentle pigeage (punch-down of the cap) program was charted and the grapes remained on skins for 26 days. The wine was then racked to barrel under gravity and the remaining pomace basket-pressed. Malolactic then proceeded in barrel followed by a light sulfuring and 17-month maturation. No finings were necessary and the wine was simply racked and bottled unfiltered.

Review:

"The 2017 Kershaw Deconstructed Lake District Cartref SH22, matured 50% in new oak for 17 months, is a little more open on the nose compared to the SH9c and delivers a touch more red berry fruit, quite candied in style and suggesting strawberry pastilles. The palate is medium-bodied with a saline entry, fine definition and a mélange of red and black fruit laced with licorice toward the poised finish. Excellent.- Neal Martin"

- Antonio Galloni's Vinous (April 2021), 93 pts



 Vinous Antonio Galloni: 93
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