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Franz Prager, co-founder of the Vinea Wachau, had already earned a reputation for his wines when Toni Bodenstein married into the family. Bodenstein’s passion for biodiversity and old terraces, coupled with brilliant winemaking, places Prager in the highest echelon of Austrian producers.
Smaragd is a designation of ripeness for dry wines used exclusively by members of the Vinea Wachau. The wines must have minimum alcohol of 12.5%. The grapes are hand-harvested, typically in October and November, and are sent directly to press where they spontaneously ferment in stainless-steel tanks.
Klaus sits adjacent to Achleiten and is one of the Wachau’s most famous vineyards for Riesling. The vineyard is incredibly steep with a gradient of 77% at its steepest point. The southeast-facing terraced vineyard of dark migmatite-amphibolite and paragneiss produces a tightly wound and powerful wine. The parcel belonging to Toni Bodenstein was planted in 1952.
Tasting Notes:
Austrian Riesling is often defined by elevated levels of dry extract thanks to a lengthy ripening period and freshness due to dramatic temperature swings between day and night. “Klaus is not a charming Riesling,” says Toni Bodenstein with a wink. Klaus is Prager’s most assertive and robust Riesling.
Food Pairing
Riesling’s high acidity makes it one of the most versatile wines at the table. Riesling can be used to cut the fattiness of foods such as pork or sausages and can tame some saltiness. Conversely, it can highlight foods such as fish or vegetables in the same way a squeeze of lemon or a vinaigrette might.
Review:
Superbly cool, restrained and refined, this austere, beautiful dry riesling is a slow-burn masterpiece that's only just beginning to reveal its complex white-peach, white-tea, wild-herb and dark-berry character. Super-long and mineral finish. Drink or hold.
-James Suckling 97 Points
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Inama Bradisismo is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Carmenere.
Our Classic Riserva. 1997 was the first vintage of the wine that we called Bradisismo, just like the geological phenomenon that created the territory of the Colli Berici. Since the beginning, this wine revealed itself as having a strong character due to the presence of the Carmenere, which makes it unique and inimitable.
Bradisismo expresses a synthesis between the intense aroma of ripen and concentrated cherry of the Cabernet Sauvignon, together with the vividness of the Carmenere: pepper, cocoa and wild berries.
For Cabernet Sauvignon lovers, this wine is a perfect alternative to a Super Tuscan or a top Bordeaux wine: Excellent quality/price ratio.
The current label was designed at the end of the 1990s when the vineyards were purchased. It offers a view that is rather more linked to the Colli Berici territory.
The drawing by the architect Nicholas Wood, shows the house that exists in the heart of the Lonigo property, surrounded by vineyards, where the Inama family lives.
The dwelling was built between 1600 and 1700, probably on a pre-existing medieval site, and renovated in the nineteenth century.
The house initially belonged to the Venier family from Venice who, in the 1700s, used to cultivate tobacco on the flat areas of the territory. Traces of this activity can be deduced from the “barchesse” that still stand next to the house and that were used for drying out the tobacco leaves.
In those days, all the province of Vicenza was part of the Venetian Serenissima Republic and many Venetian families had property in the Colli Berici area.
Tasting Notes:
The nose displays an intense bouquet of red and black fruit, spices, pepper, ripe cherries and chocolate.
Tannins are balanced and help the wine to age longer.
Review:
A poised and vivid blend of cabernet sauvignon and carmenere. Plums, blueberries, dark cherries, undergrowth, leaves, sweet tobacco and a touch of black olives. Medium- to full-bodied with fine, firm tannins. Structured and textured with dark berries and some chocolate character on the palate. Earthy with hints of spices towards the long finish. Best from 2025.
-James Suckling 94 Points
Leindl Riesling Zobinger Heiligenstein Kamptal is made from 100 percent Riesling.
Medium yellow green. Fine nuances of ripe apricot, a hint of yellow apple, delicate herbs and spices, mineral Touch, hints of candied orange zest. Juicy, elegant, fine stone fruit, touch of finesse acidity, salty minerality in the finish, remains long, already well to drink.
Cold Fermentation.
Aged on the lees for 12 months in Stainless Steel tank. No Oak.
No ML
Review:
"Anything but dramatic, this is a concentrated and beautifully crafted Heiligenstein dry riesling with the racy acidity and stony minerality we expect from this site. Very sleek and straight finish that some may find a bit tart, but we find very exciting. Sustainable. Drink or hold. - Stuart PIGOTT"
- James Suckling (Top 100 wines of Austria 2023, December 5th 2023), 94 pts
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