Franz Prager, co-founder of the Vinea Wachau, had already earned a reputation for his wines when Toni Bodenstein married into the family. Bodenstein’s passion for biodiversity and old terraces, coupled with brilliant winemaking, places Prager in the highest echelon of Austrian producers.
Smaragd is a designation of ripeness for dry wines used exclusively by members of the Vinea Wachau. The wines must have minimum alcohol of 12.5%. The grapes are hand-harvested, typically in October and November, and are sent directly to press where they spontaneously ferment in stainless-steel tanks.
Zwerithaler is a sub-site of Buschenberg and sits to the east of Weißenkirchen. The name Zwerithaler, meaning "nestled between the valleys," is a near monopole of Weingut Prager. It has a complex soil of paragneiss with alternating layers of dark and calcareous rock. Zwerithaler Kammergut is a 0.34-hectare parcel planted before WWI. The wine from these ungrafted, 100-year-old vines was bottled separately by Prager for the first time in 2015.
Light greenish yellow, silver reflections. Fine savory, delicate nuances of anise, tobacco notes, delicate yellow fruit, a touch of mango and honey blossom. Full-bodied, juicy white apple fruit, well-integrated, silky acidity structure, finesse and long persistence, saline finish, lingers for minutes, Veltliner at its best.
-Falstaff 99 Points
"The aromas of this old-vine gruner veltliner leap out and shake you to the core. Full-bodied and full of weighty and balanced layers of papayas, mangoes, nectarines, chives, white tea and oranges. Fantastic concentration, giving so much pleasure already, but it will keep blossoming if you give it time. From vines planted in 1907. Sustainable. Drink or hold."
-James Suckling 98 Points
The 2022 Jayson Chardonnay achieves a beautiful equilibrium of richness, buoyancy, and intricacy. Aromas of sweet Meyer lemon, crushedalmond, and grilled pineapple lead to a concentrated palate of bright lemon curd and orange blossom honey underscored by fresh pear andtoasted nuttiness with a hint of baking spice. The texture is classic Pahlmeyer, plush and detailed, while the presence of bright Carneros fruitbrings energy and litheness. Flavors are lifted and extended on a spine of bright acidity, the lingering finish striking an ideal balance betweenopulence and mouthwatering freshness.
Review:
This generous, buttery and spicy wine is sourced from several parts of Napa Valley and brings gorgeous richness to the nose, palate and finish. Elements of brown butter, marzipan, toasted almonds and poached pears flood the flavors, with vanilla bean and a touch of sweet coconut. Barrel fermented in 36% new French oak, it’s full-bodied and nicely viscous in texture.
James Suckling 93 Points