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Franz Prager, co-founder of the Vinea Wachau, had already earned a reputation for his wines when Toni Bodenstein married into the family. Bodenstein’s passion for biodiversity and old terraces, coupled with brilliant winemaking, places Prager in the highest echelon of Austrian producers.
Smaragd is a designation of ripeness for dry wines used exclusively by members of the Vinea Wachau. The wines must have minimum alcohol of 12.5%. The grapes are hand-harvested, typically in October and November, and are sent directly to press where they spontaneously ferment in stainless-steel tanks.
Zwerithaler is a sub-site of Buschenberg and sits to the east of Weißenkirchen. The name Zwerithaler, meaning "nestled between the valleys," is a near monopole of Weingut Prager. It has a complex soil of paragneiss with alternating layers of dark and calcareous rock. Zwerithaler Kammergut is a 0.34-hectare parcel planted before WWI. The wine from these ungrafted, 100-year-old vines was bottled separately by Prager for the first time in 2015.
Light greenish yellow, silver reflections. Fine savory, delicate nuances of anise, tobacco notes, delicate yellow fruit, a touch of mango and honey blossom. Full-bodied, juicy white apple fruit, well-integrated, silky acidity structure, finesse and long persistence, saline finish, lingers for minutes, Veltliner at its best.
-Falstaff 99 Points
"The aromas of this old-vine gruner veltliner leap out and shake you to the core. Full-bodied and full of weighty and balanced layers of papayas, mangoes, nectarines, chives, white tea and oranges. Fantastic concentration, giving so much pleasure already, but it will keep blossoming if you give it time. From vines planted in 1907. Sustainable. Drink or hold."
-James Suckling 98 Points
When we set out to produce Pinot Noir at Donelan Family Wines, we wanted to make a wine that embraces our favorite aspects of great Pinot from Sonoma County. The journey has taken us to the Two Brothers Pinot Noir where we believe terroir and technique have met at a beautiful crossroads. The composition of the Two Brothers wine is rooted heavily in Bennett Valley and Russian River Valley lending spice and earth to the nose, while the Sonoma Coast fruit gives an aromatic lift to the wine and brings length to the palate.
Named after siblings Tripp and Cushing Donelan, the Two Brothers Pinot Noir has become a fan favorite of our customers. It’s an extremely versatile wine. For one, it’s ready to drink upon release, but will also age beautifully for years if you throw a few bottles in your cellar. Our preferred food pairing with the Two Bros is always a game bird. Turkey, wings, quail, dove, or duck recipes are all super complimentary with this Pinot Noir’s dark fruit, spice, and freshness. We tend to recommend this wine for Thanksgiving every year.
Aromas recall a bouquet of rose petals and gingersnaps. A full, fleshy mouth-feel on the mid-palate with a beautiful fruit composition of plum sauce, cranberries, and fresh flowers.
Review:
Always a super-expressive wine, and in 2023 it truly delivers, showing pure, vibrant red fruit laced with brown baking spices and smoky clove. The palate is beautifully deep and penetrating, carrying impressive flavour intensity through to a long, mineral-driven, medium-bodied finish. Apple-skin tannins and savoury brown spice notes linger effortlessly, giving the wine both grip and persistence. Two Brothers is sourced from prime vineyard sites across Sonoma County, including Mardikian, Devoto, Bucher and Klopp in the Russian River Valley, along with Henry David Vineyard in Bennett Valley. The wine undergoes native fermentation, with 39% new French oak, and is aged for 17 months, incorporating approximately 16% whole clusters. - Jonathan CRISTALDI"
Decanter (January 5th 2026), 95 points
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