The Akitabare Brewery
"Koshiki Junzukuri" (The Old Way) read the characters on Akitabare Sake Brewing Company's junmai label, and a glimpse inside the brewery shows why. Many of the tools from a hundred years ago–the huge wooden basin for soaking the rice, the giant kama for steaming it–are still in use
today.
Considerable technical innovation has occurred in the sake world over the last hundred years and many of the new tools and techniques have elevated the level of sake quality. But when change is just for the sake of modernization, or to increase productivity, or to maximize earnings, there is always a trade-off in quality. And this is a trade-off that Akitabare has never been willing to make.
What this commitment means in practice is delicacy, precision and care at every step of the brewing process. Akitabare sakes possess perfect balance, a mild aroma and a subtlely expressed but very distinct taste profile. They tend to appeal to experienced connoisseurs not overly impressed with flowery aromas and ornate flavors and for whom balance, clarity and finesse are the mark of a superior label.
"People's taste may change over time, and our sakes will change as well, but they will always have a satisfying taste and a distinct personality," says Kazuo Kawaguchi, the brewery's president. "If we had a motto, it would be 'fierce adherence to tradition, skillful adaptation to change.' If we were a flower, we would be a peony."
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The Factor is predominantly from the Gomersal and Marananga sub-regions of the Barossa, providing dense texture and richness to the palate with subtle notes of olive tapenade, saddle leather and minerals. Ripe aromas of plum and wild blackberries, olive, pepper and spice are all supported by a dark core of espresso roast, ripe blackberries and saltbush. Brooding and densely packed, this lavish wine has ample generosity to cellar for many years, where it will slowly unravel.
Review:
This is quintessential Barossa. The red dirt in the ground rises up in the glass and transports me right back there: middle summer, hot, spicy air blowing across the tops of old vines. It's evocative. This 2019 The Factor is Port-y, concentrated and savory as all hell, with charred barrels, lamb fat, black pepper, salted licorice, pomegranate molasses and aniseed. This is about as big as I can cope with and still enjoy it; it takes density and intensity to a whole new level—no surprise for the vintage, the region and the producer. A perfect storm of thunderous strength. Like staring into the abyss . . . a little bit scary, but transfixing nonetheless.
-Wine Advocate 96 Points
Turley Cedarman Zinfandel is made from 100 percent Zinfandel.
Review:
Keenly structured and appealingly briary, this Zin is loaded with jammy blackberry, roasted anise and licorice flavors that build toward broad-shouldered tannins.
-Wine Spectator 93 Points