Romain-Bertrand de Lur-Saluces, Françoise-Joséphine's grandson, took his role as manager of Yquem very much to heart, rather than simply taking possession of the family estate, which had become mythical by this time. In 1855, in posthumous recognition of the tremendous accomplishments of "the lady of Yquem", the estate was designated the one and only premier cru supérieur in the famous classification made at the request of Emperor Napoléon III.
Yquem went through a long period of prosperity in the latter half of the 19th century. People all over Europe went to great lengths to search out the wine. Great Duke Constantine, brother of the Tsar of Russia, made the headlines by paying 20,000 gold francs for a barrel of Château d’Yquem – an unheard of price at the time. Japan, which opened up to foreign trade during the Meiji dynasty, also discovered the pleasures of Yquem. After Romain-Bertrand's death, his son, Marquis Amédée de Lur-Saluces, took over, followed by his younger brother, Eugène. This phase of Yquem's history ended with two dramatic events: the phylloxéra crisis and the First World War. In 1914, Yquem played a role in the war. The château was transformed into a military hospital while Marquis Bertrand de Lur-Saluces, son of Eugène, became an officer in the trenches, in keeping with the family tradition. At the end of the war, at age 30, he took over managing the estate and continued in this capacity for a momentous half-century. Bertrand was a man of character and a staunch guardian of the Yquem philosophy. He was opposed to chaptalisation and courageously defended the family estates, even during the dire recession of the 1930s. President of the Union des Crus Classés de la Gironde for forty years, he was instrumental in determining many legal aspects of the Sauternes appellation. He was also one of the leading proponents of château bottling to guarantee authenticity. An enlisted officer in the Second World War, Bertrand de Lur-Saluces was captured and held prisoner for two years. However, he was fortunate enough to return to his beloved estate as soon as he was freed. He did much to develop Château d'Yquem, particularly as regards its international impact, until his death in 1968.
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Dark crimson in color, with deep garnet hues. A concentrated array of aromas of mulberry, blackberry and dark plum indicate the richness to come, while savory and complex notes of charcuterie, cedar, sage and five spice tease the senses. Plush and velvety on the palate, the wine has intense fruit concentration with plum, red currant, blackberry and anise flavors, yet an enchantingly elegant and refined structure. Layers of silky tannins reveal the impressive depth of the wine before giving way to an incredibly long finish.
Review:
This has a very complex nose, offering so many facets of spices and fragrance with florals and orange peel, as well as crushed stones, ripe black cherries, blackberries and dark cherries, earth, chocolate and more. The intensity and power here is very tightly held and it has a build of such precise tannins, which carry very intense and assertively ripe blackberries, dark cherries, ripe plums and blueberries. So much on offer here. This has a very bold, intense feel. Exceptional vintage. One of their finest. Try from 2028.
-James Suckling 100 Points
Bavencoff Montagny Blanc is made from 100 percent Chardonnay.
This Montagny presents a typical robe of a Burgundy Chardonnay: A pale yellow color with discreet green reflections. The color will change to golden yellow with age. On the nose, it develops delicate honey and vanilla aromas. On the palate, this wine is full-bodied, it offers a slightly oily texture typical of the great whites of Burgundy, rich and fresh flavors (vanilla, honey, golden apple, toast). The finish is long and mineral.
This wine goes perfectly with veal in sauce, scallops in butter and herbs, and most fish. Also to drink with hard mountain cheeses: Comté, Beaufort.