Dewazakura Brewing Company
Many sake enthusiasts are surprised to learn that twenty-five years ago ginjo labels were hard to find in Japan. In those days, people were still drinking the cloyingly sweet sakes the breweries had been churning out since the ’50s; no one thought that customers would actually pay more for the quality ginjo and daiginjo sakes brewed in limited amounts for competitions.
In 1981, Dewazakura Brewing Company changed that with the release of "Oka," an affordably priced ginjo label with a polishing ratio of 50 percent and a lovely floral aroma. It was light, crisp and delightful. It was made to be drunk cold. Soon other breweries introduced their own ginjo labels. And so began one of the most creative periods in the history of sake, earning for Dewazakura the admiration and respect of even its most ardent competitors.
What made the brewery stand out was a drive for innovation. Dewazakura was not a wealthy brewery, or a long-established one, but they were open to change. When the opportunity arose in the years after the war to invite research technicians in from the National Research Institute of Brewing, they jumped at the chance. Drawing on the knowledge and skill of Hideo Abe, a former Institute research advisor, they put new ideas into practice without hesitation.
By 1991, Dewazakura had perfected its cold storage technique, aging freshly pressed sake at 28 degrees Fahrenheit to keep it as aromatic and flavorful as possible until bottling. In 1996 it introduced "Dewasansan," brewed from a new Yamagata rice strain of the same name, another hit which opened the way for other prefectures to introduce highly specific regional labels. This year, for the first time in history, Yamagata breweries received more gold medals than any other prefecture at the 2004 Japan National Sake Appraisal, an achievement due in no small measure to the pioneering efforts of the Dewazakura Brewing Company.
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There are afternoons with indigo skies when we approach one of the oldest plots of the estate. Our stroll from the winery follows a line of cypress trees to the corner of a path. This angle gives its name to our most exceptional vineyard.
El Picón is the great symbol and the most profound reality. The sum of enigmas in a beautiful, pure fruit. The wine of silence and intimate joy, an eternal taste in which generations, labours and nature’s favors culminate.
Grapes from the plot of El Picón, one of the oldest at the Pago de los Capellanes estate in Pedrosa de Duero.
22 months in 225-litre, extra-fine grain French oak barrels dried over 60 months.
Pago de los Capellanes Finca El Picón 2018 is a mature red wine with intense aromas of red and black fruit from the forest accompanied by deep balsamic notes and spicy touches provided by aging. In the mouth it is meaty, deep and very balanced. A medium to full-bodied wine with vibrant acidity and fine, velvety tannins. The finish is long and very persistent.
1.6 hectares of clay loam soil with surface gravel. Very poor fertility and very low vineyard yields.
This is a Grenache blend coming from Red Heaven Vineyard on Red Mountain. The name refers to the ramparts surround the City of Avignon in Southern France.
Hand harvested, sorted upon arrival, destemmed, concrete fermentation, combination of punch downs and pump overs, no racked often, 20 day maceration, 18 months in neutral French oak, no fining or filtering, free-run juice, no RS.
Pair with pork rillettes, smoked salmon, goat cheese.
Review:
"The Ramparts offers lots of up-front red and black fruits as well as spicy, peppery, underbrush nuances, medium to full body, fine tannins, and a soft, pure, layered, already hard-to-resist style."
92-94 points -Jeb Dunnuck