" We don't sell the wine without touching the vine "
Wine from Guido Porro
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Guido Porro:
Reviews and notes on Guido Porro regularly refer to him as “under the radar”: the wines he makes are worthy of a stellar reputation, but he is too easygoing and unassuming to worry about whether the general wine-drinking public recognizes his name. He rarely bothers to send samples to wine writers. Guido is the fourth generation at an estate that has always been passed from father to son, and although fifth-generation Fabio hasn’t reached middle school, he is already showing a keen curiosity in the family business. The Porros continue to work just as their predecessors did—the only major change over the last few decades has been the decision to bottle at the estate instead of selling the wine in demijohns or barrels—and they like to keep things simple and down to earth. The door is always open, and Guido’s wife Giovanna never looks quite as happy as when she’s serving enormous platters of classic local dishes to a full table of guests.
The limestone-heavy soils of Serralunga d’Alba are known for providing the most long-lived and full-bodied Barolos. Porro’s vineyards are located here in the Lazzarito cru, a gorgeous amphitheatre that faces south-southwest and offers the grapes full sun exposure and protection from the wind. The sub-zones of Lazzairascoand Santa Caterina are both monopoli and share the same soil; however, different exposition and altitude bring distinct traits to each wine. Lazzairasco, a very hot site home to Guido’s oldest Nebbiolo, gives a more powerful, masculine wine, while the cooler, breezier Santa Caterina brings out the delicacy and elegance of Nebbiolo. Even Porro’s Barbera, a grape that is usually planted in lesser vineyards, enjoys a privileged place inSanta Caterina. Guido sticks to traditional methods in the vineyards and cellar, and he never gets in the way of the grapes’ natural expression.
VITICULTURE / VINIFICATION
• Vines are sustainably farmed, the equivalent of lutte raisonnée in France.
• Only indigenous yeasts are used
• Almost all barrels used (barriques, tonneaux, and botti) are at least 5th passage; new barrels are introduced occasionally as needed
• The Lazzairasco, Santa Caterina, and l’Pari vineyards are all monopolies
Langhe Nebbiolo “Camilu”:
• Maceration in cement vats lasts 20-25 days; pumping over 3-4 times daily
• Six or seven months in 500-L tonneaux
• Vines are located in the Serralunga within the Barolo DOCG
Langhe Rosso “Paesan”:
• Nebbiolo and Barbera vinified and matured separately
• Maceration in cement vats lasts 20-25 days; pumping over 3-4 times daily
• Nebbiolo: 1 year in tonneaux
• Barbera: 1 year in barriques
Dolcetto, Barbera:
• Maceration in cement vats lasts 7-12 days; pumping over 3-4 times daily
• Dolcetto: 2 months in botti then 10-12 months in cement vats before bottling
• Barbera: 4-6 months in botti then about 6 months in stainless steel before bottling
Barolos:
• Maceration in cement vats lasts 20-25 days; pumping over 3-4 times daily
• Three years in 15- to 25-hl Slavonian oak botti
Lazzairasco and Santa Caterina:
• Both vineyards in the Lazzarito cru of Barolo
• Lazzairasco: 300-350 m altitude; S/SE exposure
• Santa Caterina: 340-390 m altitude; SW exposure
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Bernardins Beaumes de Venise Rouge Cru Cotes du Rhone is made from 65% Grenache, 25% Syrah, 5% Mourvedre and 5% Grenache Blanc.
Bright ruby color with cherry tinges. Complex black fruit aromas on the nose enhanced by spicy notes. Rounded palate with good length.
The wine is drinking well right now and can be kept for another 10 years.
Situation
Spreads out over the south-east side of the Dentelles de Montmirail hills, in Beaumes de Venise in the southern part of the Rhone valley.
Terroir
On a poor sandy, hungry and arid soil consisting of tender limestone and gritty zones of sandy mollasse.
In the vineyard
The vineyards and their terroir are the essence of our wines. This is where everything starts and where we focus our efforts throughout the year. You can’t make great wine without great grapes.
The viticulture is essentially done by hand. Five people work full-time in the vineyards. They are supplemented by seasonal employees who work during bunch thinning and the harvest in order to bring out the very best in our vines. Working by hand and the attention each vine gets are fundamental. Pruning, de-budding, trellising, leaf removal and picking are thus carried out by hand with the utmost care.
We prepare the soil by using good old-fashioned ploughing. Organic compost is made from grape marc (the discarded stalks and skins).
As a way of protecting the plants, we only use phytosanitary products when necessary and within strict guidelines by staggering the treatments appropriately, to minimise the amount of chemicals used. We prefer to use as much as possible manual and organic techniques . Leaving natural grass cover, removing buds and leaves from the vines, preserving biodiversity around the vineyard: olive, almond and cypress trees, wild rosemary and capers.
Winemaking
We make two red wines at the estate. Terroir wines shaped by the two classic Côtes du Rhône varieties: Grenache and Syrah. We don’t follow any winemaking recipe but are constantly searching for the perfect expression of terroir and each vintage’s particular characteristics. We don’t go for overripe grapes and over-extraction, as we think the wine has to stay refreshing and balanced.
Leaving the wine for 15 days in concrete vats, we try to gently extract the tannins and anthocyanins essential for the wine’s structure and colour. The wine doesn’t come into any contact with wood during ageing. This way the characteristics of our terroir can fully express
Serve with a meal especially red meat, game and cheese.
Review:
"Interesting blend, and it comes through on the nose - it's a fruity, floral style of Beaumes that's really appealing. Full-bodied, rounded, generous and fluid, with very fine tannins. This is a real success in 2021. Also contains 5% Mourvèdre and 4% Grenache Blanc. No destemming, aged 12 months in stainless steel."
- Decanter (September 2022), 93 pts
This is a single vineyard, from the parcel "El Nogal" located in the town of Mambrilla de Castrejon grown at 850 meters above sea level. (2750 feet).
A hillside of tinto fino vines red in the village of Mambrilla, a short distance from the winery. Uninterrupted views of the Duero, the wind stirring the airy branches of the large walnut tree that guards the vineyard. A place with a special gift. Its sandy, stony soils, a feeling of harmony and a special microclimate: everything seems to enhance the talent of its surroundings.
We have been vinifying the evocative grapes of this plot for the past few years to produce an endlessly charming wine. Overwhelming, powerful and exquisite. With a vitalising force.
Review:
Deep aromas of ripe blackberries, cherries, fine toasted spices, hazelnuts, chocolate and a peppery twist. Compact yet pretty energetic, with a full body and powerful yet chalky tannins. Bold but caressing, with an intense, lengthy finish. Drinkable now, but better in two more years.
- James Suckling 93 Points
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