
Hertelendy wines represent our Old World family tradition over many centuries, from 18th-century Veltlínske zelené (Grüner Veltliner) and Rizling vlašský (Welschriesling) vineyards near Budatin Castle in Slovakia to Hungarian wines produced by our ancestral Great Uncle Gábor Hertelendy (below). He created two varietals in his basalt-mountain vineyards overlooking Lake Balaton: Szürkebarát (better known as Pinot Gris) and Kéknyelű (a rare Hungarian white wine grape only found in the Badacsony wine region). Unlike the majority of common grape varieties used in viticulture, Kéknyelű cannot self-pollinate. Kéknyelű is rare today because it requires both male and female specimens for pollination, so it occupies double the space to reap half the yield.
Great Uncle Gabor’s manor was half-way up an extinct volcano on the north shore of Lake Balaton where his wine profited from the rich soils resulting from the very hard (volcanic) basalt rock. Gabor sold all his white wine to the Badacsony cooperative, so bottles never adorned his Hertelendy name. He only allocated two acres to wine production, and family members from Budapest would all volunteer to assist with the harvest. Gabor et al continued producing wine even after the confiscation of his land by the Communists, who allowed him to stay and work on his former land as a hired hand.
Today, Hertelendy family traditions have been reborn in the New World with quality vintage selections from the Napa Valley to bridge both sides of the Atlantic. It is also unique that regardless of where Hertelendys make wine, volcanic soil within their respective terroir has always been a staple in Hertelendy winemaking throughout generations.
Hertelendy Vineyards sources its fruit, not just from our 4+ acre mountainside 1365 ft elevation “Rockwell Ridge” estate vineyard (35 ft below the Howell Mountain AVA demarcation line) planted in 1993, but also from ultra premium vineyards around the Napa Valley including areas like Oakville, Atlas Peak, Pritchard Hill, Silverado Bench, Coombsville, and the Russian River Valley for our Chardonnay. The majority of Hertelendy’s red vitis vinifera grapes come from tuffaceous rocky soil that is located on the steep, western facing Vaca Mountain slope (with Oakville being the exception). These slopes have volcanic ash, red clay, and granite-like sub soil, getting the best of both worlds: mountainside structure and rich flavors from the valley floor. These hillside locations, blessed with low fertility soil, consistently produce wines of unusual intensity and concentration. The rocky terrain provides excellent drainage and naturally stresses the vines, producing wines of character, complexity, and elegance.
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The 2020 Skycrest Vineyard Chardonnay offers fresh Meyer lemon, quince and pear fruit notes alongside subtle sea spray and white lily. A note of flint minerality runs through the palate balancing the wine along with a bright focused acidity that highlights the incredible texture and produces an exceptionally long finish.
Review:
A light hazy yellow hue, the 2020 Chardonnay Skycrest Vineyard is a bit reserved at the moment, with yellow apple, chamomile, and lemon pith notes. The palate is more expressive, offering medium to full body and a supple texture, with a soft floral expression coming through in its notes of vanilla spice, lemon pastry, and almond. A gorgeous wine, it will take some time to open in the glass. Drink 2024-2032.
Jeb Dunnuck 93 Points
Beautiful aromas immediately waft out of the glass, recalling coconut, white orchid, lily of the valley, sea salt salinity and white peach. The palate is driven by steely acidity softened by balanced alcohol. It incorporates additional notes of lime leaf, lemongrass and blanched almond. The challenge is to delight in each nuanced detail, since the wine is just too delicious to stop sipping.
Editors' Choice Wine Enthusiast 93 Points