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Franz Prager, co-founder of the Vinea Wachau, had already earned a reputation for his wines when Toni Bodenstein married into the family. Bodenstein’s passion for biodiversity and old terraces, coupled with brilliant winemaking, places Prager in the highest echelon of Austrian producers.
Smaragd is a designation of ripeness for dry wines used exclusively by members of the Vinea Wachau. The wines must have minimum alcohol of 12.5%. The grapes are hand-harvested, typically in October and November, and are sent directly to press where they spontaneously ferment in stainless-steel tanks.
Klaus sits adjacent to Achleiten and is one of the Wachau’s most famous vineyards for Riesling. The vineyard is incredibly steep with a gradient of 77% at its steepest point. The southeast-facing terraced vineyard of dark migmatite-amphibolite and paragneiss produces a tightly wound and powerful wine. The parcel belonging to Toni Bodenstein was planted in 1952.
Tasting Notes:
Austrian Riesling is often defined by elevated levels of dry extract thanks to a lengthy ripening period and freshness due to dramatic temperature swings between day and night. “Klaus is not a charming Riesling,” says Toni Bodenstein with a wink. Klaus is Prager’s most assertive and robust Riesling.
Food Pairing
Riesling’s high acidity makes it one of the most versatile wines at the table. Riesling can be used to cut the fattiness of foods such as pork or sausages and can tame some saltiness. Conversely, it can highlight foods such as fish or vegetables in the same way a squeeze of lemon or a vinaigrette might.
Review:
Superbly cool, restrained and refined, this austere, beautiful dry riesling is a slow-burn masterpiece that's only just beginning to reveal its complex white-peach, white-tea, wild-herb and dark-berry character. Super-long and mineral finish. Drink or hold.
-James Suckling 97 Points
This beautiful wine opens with aromas of cassis, blackberry, and earthy plum on the nose, with a touch of cedar that elegantly underlies the rich dark fruits on the nose. The wine is rich and full bodied on the palate, the acidity is supple, supporting the layers of plum, dark cherry and dusty minerality. Alongside these you have a touch of espresso bean and slight vanilla. The smooth tannins follow through to drive the finish, giving longevity to the palate.
Review: Aromas of black cherries, cassis, spice box, walnut and graphite. Firm and lengthy with a full body and compact tannin structure. Dense and wide with a chocolaty finish. - James Suckling 93 Points |
A classic balance between generous red and black fruits and firm tannins shows in this full-bodied wine as it unfolds black cherries, blackberries, oak char and black pepper. It's grippy in texture—perfect for a steak or lamb chop.
- Wine Enthusiast 93 Points