It has been a number of years since the very last “Vin de Glacière,” a wine that was enormously successful for Bonny Doon Vineyard in the day. After Randall Grahm sold off the large brands, he had resolved to commit Bonny Doon to wines made in a far less interventionist or “inflected” manner. So much for quixotic aspiration. (They’re still getting calls to bring back the Vin de Glacière.) Perhaps someday they will enjoy naturally occurring botrytis in the Popelouchum vineyard and be capable of making “natural” dessert wines. But, the opportunity to make a dessert wine from the Viognier they were offered this year in this instance was quite compelling, and while the methodology for its production is not historically accurate, the sweet style of Viognier does have an historical precedent.
Tasting Notes
On the nose, you will find the subtle suggestion of white flower, Mirabelle plum, as well as the honeyed character of apricot and an unnamed highly exotic tropical fruit. These flavors carry through to the palate, coupled with further elements of citrus peel and clove. While reasonably sweet (165 g. of residual sugar), the wine is not at all cloying in virtue of its impeccable acidity. The wine will of course work exceptionally well as a dessert wine, especially paired with fruit desserts, but for sublime elegance, consider it as an apéritif with foie gras, or if you’re averse to that concept, perhaps a rich trout mousse.
Vineyard Notes
We were somewhat overdoon for a dessert wine in our line-up, and the Viognier grapes from Camp Four Vineyard in the Santa Ynez Valley were an excellent choice for this style.
Production Notes
Naturally high in sugar as well naturally high in acid, we subjected the juice to cryoextraction, i.e. froze the grape must and separated the sweeter juice from the remaining ice, a slightly different methodology than what we deployed when making our “wines of the ice-box", lo so many years ago.
Varietal Blend:
Appellation: Santa Ynez Valley
Alcohol by Volume: 11.4%
Sugar Post-Freezing: 34° brix
TA: 8.5 g/L
pH: 3.39
Production: 679 cases
Apricot clafoutis with almonds. Creme brulee. Peach cobbler. Mirabelle plum tart. Pineapple upside down cake. Blue cheese, such as Pt. Reyes or Rogue River Blue (with stone fruit preserves wouldn’t hurt).