Guido Porro:
Reviews and notes on Guido Porro regularly refer to him as “under the radar”: the wines he makes are worthy of a stellar reputation, but he is too easygoing and unassuming to worry about whether the general wine-drinking public recognizes his name. He rarely bothers to send samples to wine writers. Guido is the fourth generation at an estate that has always been passed from father to son, and although fifth-generation Fabio hasn’t reached middle school, he is already showing a keen curiosity in the family business. The Porros continue to work just as their predecessors did—the only major change over the last few decades has been the decision to bottle at the estate instead of selling the wine in demijohns or barrels—and they like to keep things simple and down to earth. The door is always open, and Guido’s wife Giovanna never looks quite as happy as when she’s serving enormous platters of classic local dishes to a full table of guests.
The limestone-heavy soils of Serralunga d’Alba are known for providing the most long-lived and full-bodied Barolos. Porro’s vineyards are located here in the Lazzarito cru, a gorgeous amphitheatre that faces south-southwest and offers the grapes full sun exposure and protection from the wind. The sub-zones of Lazzairascoand Santa Caterina are both monopoli and share the same soil; however, different exposition and altitude bring distinct traits to each wine. Lazzairasco, a very hot site home to Guido’s oldest Nebbiolo, gives a more powerful, masculine wine, while the cooler, breezier Santa Caterina brings out the delicacy and elegance of Nebbiolo. Even Porro’s Barbera, a grape that is usually planted in lesser vineyards, enjoys a privileged place inSanta Caterina. Guido sticks to traditional methods in the vineyards and cellar, and he never gets in the way of the grapes’ natural expression.
• Vines are sustainably farmed, the equivalent of lutte raisonnée in France.
• Only indigenous yeasts are used
• Almost all barrels used (barriques, tonneaux, and botti) are at least 5th passage; new barrels are introduced occasionally as needed
• The Lazzairasco, Santa Caterina, and l’Pari vineyards are all monopolies
Langhe Nebbiolo “Camilu”:
• Maceration in cement vats lasts 20-25 days; pumping over 3-4 times daily
• Six or seven months in 500-L tonneaux
• Vines are located in the Serralunga within the Barolo DOCG
Langhe Rosso “Paesan”:
• Nebbiolo and Barbera vinified and matured separately
• Maceration in cement vats lasts 20-25 days; pumping over 3-4 times daily
• Nebbiolo: 1 year in tonneaux
• Barbera: 1 year in barriques
Dolcetto, Barbera:
• Maceration in cement vats lasts 7-12 days; pumping over 3-4 times daily
• Dolcetto: 2 months in botti then 10-12 months in cement vats before bottling
• Barbera: 4-6 months in botti then about 6 months in stainless steel before bottling
Barolos:
• Maceration in cement vats lasts 20-25 days; pumping over 3-4 times daily
• Three years in 15- to 25-hl Slavonian oak botti
Lazzairasco and Santa Caterina:
• Both vineyards in the Lazzarito cru of Barolo
• Lazzairasco: 300-350 m altitude; S/SE exposure
• Santa Caterina: 340-390 m altitude; SW exposure
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Philippe Milan Bourgogne Blanc is made from 100% Chardonnay
The wine is produced from vines planted in the commune of Chassey le Camp at high elevation, which brings freshness to this Chardonnay. Ripe fruit is nicely balanced with delicate notes of oak and a hint of citrus on the finish. Full flavored and complex.
Pago de Carraovejas El Anejon is made from 93%, Cabernet Sauvignon 5% and Merlot 2%.
El Anejon vineyard is a terraced plot on a steep slope, oriented toward the sun and with great views of the Castle of Peñafiel. The soil of the narrow terraces has a compact, loamy limestone texture. The presence of the white-colored limestone calcium salts contributes to a distinctive minerality in this wine. Only made in exceptional vintages.
Review:
"A single-plot wine from the top terraces of the site from an excellent vintage, the 2021 El Anejon is powerful and truly outstanding. Tempranillo is blended with Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot to an exceptional end, aged 12 months in larger French oak barrels after a triple selection of the grapes. Sharp red fruit has an underbelly of herbal earthiness beneath the fruit, while tight, refreshing acidity accentuates the mineral-driven texture. Bottled in June 2023, this might be the producer’s best wine of the vintage, which is saying a lot, as they’re all of outstanding quality. This will hit a high point in 5-7 years and keep going another 20. - Virginie BOONE"
- Jeb DUNNUCK (August 2°25), 98 pts