Franz Prager, co-founder of the Vinea Wachau, had already earned a reputation for his wines when Toni Bodenstein married into the family. Bodenstein’s passion for biodiversity and old terraces, coupled with brilliant winemaking, places Prager in the highest echelon of Austrian producers.
Smaragd is a designation of ripeness for dry wines used exclusively by members of the Vinea Wachau. The wines must have minimum alcohol of 12.5%. The grapes are hand-harvested, typically in October and November, and are sent directly to press where they spontaneously ferment in stainless-steel tanks.
Zwerithaler is a sub-site of Buschenberg and sits to the east of Weißenkirchen. The name Zwerithaler, meaning "nestled between the valleys," is a near monopole of Weingut Prager. It has a complex soil of paragneiss with alternating layers of dark and calcareous rock. Zwerithaler Kammergut is a 0.34-hectare parcel planted before WWI. The wine from these ungrafted, 100-year-old vines was bottled separately by Prager for the first time in 2015.
Light greenish yellow, silver reflections. Fine savory, delicate nuances of anise, tobacco notes, delicate yellow fruit, a touch of mango and honey blossom. Full-bodied, juicy white apple fruit, well-integrated, silky acidity structure, finesse and long persistence, saline finish, lingers for minutes, Veltliner at its best.
-Falstaff 99 Points
"The aromas of this old-vine gruner veltliner leap out and shake you to the core. Full-bodied and full of weighty and balanced layers of papayas, mangoes, nectarines, chives, white tea and oranges. Fantastic concentration, giving so much pleasure already, but it will keep blossoming if you give it time. From vines planted in 1907. Sustainable. Drink or hold."
-James Suckling 98 Points
Zenato Amarone is a blend of Corvina and Rondinella, with a touch of Croatina and Oseleta. Corvina is prized not only for its intense marasca cherry flavor, but also its ability to withstand the drying process. Used in small quantities Rondinella also fares well in drying, and contributes dark color and an alluring floral note. Oseleta provides tannic structure and minerality; while Croatina is introduced to add youthful fruitiness. All this attention to detail pays off in a wine that is immediately approachable yet unmistakably ageworthy.
Ruby red in color, intoxicating aromas of dried black cherries, cassis, truffles, and chocolate fudge leap out of the glass. The resulting wine is silky, luscious, and complex, with a lingering finish.
Pair this wine with osso bucco, Bordelaise sauces, wild boar ravioli, or grilled cowboy ribeyes.
Review:
Restrained fruitiness with aromas of raspberries and earth, alongside a complex spicy blend of freshly ground black pepper, milk, mint, bay leaf and cocoa powder. Very youthful. Full-bodied, dense and balanced, with savory flavors of chocolate and cherries, super-tasty style, tight, chalky yet ripe tannins and a fresh, cleansing acidity. Toasty finish. Drinkable now, but best in a year or two.
-James Suckling 96 Points