" We don't sell the wine without touching the vine "
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Franz Prager, co-founder of the Vinea Wachau, had already earned a reputation for his wines when Toni Bodenstein married into the family. Bodenstein’s passion for biodiversity and old terraces, coupled with brilliant winemaking, places Prager in the highest echelon of Austrian producers.
Smaragd is a designation of ripeness for dry wines used exclusively by members of the Vinea Wachau. The wines must have minimum alcohol of 12.5%. The grapes are hand-harvested, typically in October and November, and are sent directly to press where they spontaneously ferment in stainless-steel tanks.
Zwerithaler is a sub-site of Buschenberg and sits to the east of Weißenkirchen. The name Zwerithaler, meaning "nestled between the valleys," is a near monopole of Weingut Prager. It has a complex soil of paragneiss with alternating layers of dark and calcareous rock. Zwerithaler Kammergut is a 0.34-hectare parcel planted before WWI. The wine from these ungrafted, 100-year-old vines was bottled separately by Prager for the first time in 2015.
Light greenish yellow, silver reflections. Fine savory, delicate nuances of anise, tobacco notes, delicate yellow fruit, a touch of mango and honey blossom. Full-bodied, juicy white apple fruit, well-integrated, silky acidity structure, finesse and long persistence, saline finish, lingers for minutes, Veltliner at its best.
-Falstaff 99 Points
"The aromas of this old-vine gruner veltliner leap out and shake you to the core. Full-bodied and full of weighty and balanced layers of papayas, mangoes, nectarines, chives, white tea and oranges. Fantastic concentration, giving so much pleasure already, but it will keep blossoming if you give it time. From vines planted in 1907. Sustainable. Drink or hold."
-James Suckling 98 Points
Single vineyard Pinot Noir with a dark red brick color. Lots of ripe raspberries, wild strawberries, forest floor, cedar and a salty whiff of pine on the nose. The palate adds both herbal and peppery components as well as roasted coffee notes with a bit of caraway seed. Recommended to serve it slightly chilled in a round glass.
Braised beef with dumplings, lamb crown and brussels sprouts, roasted veal liver with pumpkin squash or tagliatelle with blue cheese.
Review:
"Deep crimson red with a purple hue, a subtle brightening on the rim. Candied violets, a hint of cassis, raspberries, black cherries, subtle notes of vanilla, a floral touch. Juicy, elegant, red cherries, a fresh acidity, a mineral-salty finish, red berry notes in the aftertaste, fresh and mineral, already drinking well, wonderful length, with ageing potential. - Peter MOSER"
- Falstaff (June 24th 2024), 95 pts
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