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Bastgen Kestener Paulinshofberg Riesling Grosses Gewachs 2023

Scents and flavors of peach and yellow plum, citrus and mineral notes. Extremely long, white peach finish.

 

This wine is a 100 case Cuvee produced from the steepest part of the Paulinschofberger vineyard, 65 % slope. Vine age is 105 years old. "Grosses Gewachs" Großes Gewächs: (great growth = Grand cru), a designation used by VDP members in all regions except Mosel and Rheingau to designate top-level dry wines from selected sites (the highest level of quality). Dry means dry on the palate. The maximum yield is 50 hl/ha, from a classified vineyard. The natural minimum density of must is around 90° Oechsle. The wines are produced using exclusively traditional production methods. The wines are tested and approved by a test body before and after bottling. Hand Harvest (no machine harvest). The wine must not be released before September the year after it was made.


Review:


"In spite of the abundant yellow fruit aromas (think Mirabelle plums more than peaches), this is a very cool and sleek style of Mosel GG with great herbal freshness. Although this has excellent concentration, it definitely needs time to give its best due to the bone-dry style. Quite a steely, tightly wound finish, but very long. Drinkable now, but best from 2026. - Stuart PIGOTT (Senior Editor)" - James Suckling (August 30th 2024), 95 pts

 95 Points
Bastgen Paulinshofberger Grosses Gewachs 2021

Scents and flavors of peach and yellow plum, citrus and mineral notes. Extremely long, white peach finish.

 

This wine is a 100 case Cuvee produced from the steepest part of the Paulinschofberger vineyard, 65 % slope. Vine age is 105 years old. "Grosses Gewachs" Großes Gewächs: (great growth = Grand cru), a designation used by VDP members in all regions except Mosel and Rheingau to designate top-level dry wines from selected sites (the highest level of quality). Dry means dry on the palate. The maximum yield is 50 hl/ha, from a classified vineyard. The natural minimum density of must is around 90° Oechsle. The wines are produced using exclusively traditional production methods. The wines are tested and approved by a test body before and after bottling. Hand Harvest (no machine harvest). The wine must not be released before September the year after it was made.


Review:


"Very smoky nose of sealing wax and candied citrus. This medium-bodied dry riesling is strikingly original and has good balance on the impressively structured palate, but it does lack a bit of charm. Long, firm finish. May well show better after further bottle age. From organically grown grapes. Drink or hold. - Stuart PIGOTT (Senior Editor)" - James Suckling (November 9th 2023), 91 pts

 91 Points
Bastgen Paulinshofberger Grosses Gewachs 2024

Scents and flavors of peach and yellow plum, citrus and mineral notes. Extremely long, white peach finish.

 

This wine is a 100 case Cuvee produced from the steepest part of the Paulinschofberger vineyard, 65 % slope. Vine age is 105 years old. "Grosses Gewachs" Großes Gewächs: (great growth = Grand cru), a designation used by VDP members in all regions except Mosel and Rheingau to designate top-level dry wines from selected sites (the highest level of quality). Dry means dry on the palate. The maximum yield is 50 hl/ha, from a classified vineyard. The natural minimum density of must is around 90° Oechsle. The wines are produced using exclusively traditional production methods. The wines are tested and approved by a test body before and after bottling. Hand Harvest (no machine harvest). The wine must not be released before September the year after it was made.

 

Donelan Knight's Valley Obsidian Vineyard Syrah 2023


Obsidian Vineyard Syrah is bathed in terroir. The vines experience severe stress, pushing the roots ever deeper through rock in search of water, producing miniature clusters of intense power. Given the wine’s natural propensity for tannin, we take extreme care in the cellar to chisel/whittle its rough edges and leave room for richness to flatter its distinctive scaffold. The mid-palate supports flavors of roasted coffee beans, sarsaparilla, and dark chocolate. The finish marches on long after most wines have tired.

Our estate vineyard — the six-acre Obsidian Vineyard in the Knights Valley AVA — has an incredibly complex soil structure. It takes its name from a layer of volcanic obsidian rock that was discovered when we drilled for water.

Chocolate ganache, black currants, fig, graphite, and an expansive mouthfeel.

Review:

"Joe Donelan believes his Obsidian Vineyard is one of the world’s greatest sites for Syrah. I’ve visited the site twice, and can say candidly it certainly sits among the most striking vineyards I've ever laid eyes on within the U.S. It sits like a rock on a promontory—two switchbacks to reach the top—and the stones under the top soil, quite literally, never stop emerging from the ground. The place has an ancient, almost sacred, temple-like feel. It is consistently swept by afternoon breezes. The vineyard was replanted in 2017 after fires ravaged it. Winemaker David Milner laid out the site at denser spacing than before, at 2,000 vines per acre to keep yields per vine low while still achieving sensible tonnage, averaging around three tonnes per acre. Viognier was planted for co-fermentations, alongside some Cabernet Sauvignon, for a single vineyard bottling of that grape. ‘God put on his viticultural hat when he designed this site,’ says Milner. The vineyard is planted with ENTA 174, 877, and Alban 1 clones, along with Donelan Heritage selections certified virus-free. The wine, the 2023 vintage release (the first from the new vines), was aged for 21 months in 36% new oak and co-fermented with 1.8% Viognier, using 32% whole clusters. And it is positively gorgeous: composed of nine different blocks, each fermented separately, then assembled through sequential blending, with no racking until bottling. From just five-year-old vines, this wine is utterly extraordinary—something oddly achievable from young vines on rare occasion. I tasted this wine from the same bottle over three days. While the high-toned espresso-bean and cedar accents are present at first pull of the cork, they mellow out a day later, and the fruit profile is so vibrant. This is the sign of an excellent wine. I first tasted wines from the Donelan’s Obsidian Vineyard years ago at Tasting Panel Magazine in the late, great Anthony Dias Blue’s office. Cushing Donelan showed the wines, and to this day, I recall the first moment I put my nose into a glass of Obsidian Syrah. In early January of 2026, as I nosed this brand new release of Obsidian Syrah, I was transported straight back to that tasting twelve years ago. What’s remarkable is that the aromatics are unmistakably the same, yet from these new, more densely planted vines, the aromas are more refined—precision-farmed wines from young vines delivering a level of detail and poise that feels beyond their years. So what’s in the glass? Pure red, black, and blue fruit nuances layered with tobacco, white truffle character, violet pastille, and an intoxicating perfume. White pepper notes emerge on the medium- to full-bodied palate, framed by velvety tannins. Iron-like and crushed slate minerality underpins dazzling black cherry and blackberry fruit, brown spices, and blood orange richness. There’s a velvety, iron-fist quality here that exudes polish, complexity, and undeniable quality. You want to drink it now—and you absolutely can—but it will also reward time in the cellar. Either way, you’ll be utterly wowed. And when you realise the price is under £100, the achievement becomes even more staggering. As these vines mature, what will become of them in subsequent vintages? I suspect that as the vines mature, they'll go in and out of phases, but so long as Mother Nature cooperates, I expect this wine to continue to dazzle each vintage. - Jonathan CRISTALDI"

Decanter (January 5th 2026), 100 points


This is the first vintage of the Obsidian Syrah after wildfires torched the vineyard in 2017, leading to significant redevelopment. Throughout all those years, the Donelans have exhibited remarkable patience and a clear sense of purpose. This is their reward: a truly magnificent, towering wine of the highest level.

Knights Valley is one of the most magical grape-growing districts in the United States, but it is not very well known because only a few estate wineries are located there.

The 2023 Syria Obsidian Estate is one of the most profound, moving wines I have tasted in Sonoma County. Blackberry, gravel, incense, chocolate, lavender, and dried herbs race out of the glass. Delicate yet powerful, the 2023 is spectacular. It is also very fairly priced in today’s market.

Vinous 100 Points

 Vinous Antonio Galloni: 100 100 Points
Dr. Loosen Graacher Himmelreich Alte Reben Riesling Grosses Gewachs 2020

A heavenly, full-bodied dry Riesling with forceful minerality from 100-year-old vines grown in the blue slate soil of Graach.

Graach is a small village in the Mosel valley. It’s steep slate slopes produce wines that combine elegance with rustic strength. Grosses Gewächs (GG) is the designation for an estate’s best dry wine from a Grosse Lage (grand cru) vineyard. This limited-production wine was fermented with indigenous yeasts and kept in the barrel, on the full lees, for a year before bottling. The extended maturation time allows the wine to develop greater texture and a deeper natural harmony. This is a fully ripe wine, with vibrant aromatics and a pronounced acidity that gives it a brilliant structural precision.

Review:

Convincing proof that 2020 is an excellent vintage for dry GG on the Mosel! Cool and stony with delicate white-peach and white-currant aromas. Really takes off at the intensely slatey and racy finish.
-James Suckling 95-96 Points

 96 Points
Rubus Special Edition Barossa Shiraz 2018

Rubus Special Edition Barossa Shiraz is made from 100 percent 

The Rubus Project was created by Fran Kysela as a way to source & sell incredible wines at value prices. All wines in this international project are hand-selected by Fran Kysela. Rubus wines are fruit driven, true-to-type values that over deliver - a true representation of quality for the consumer at an excellent price.

Deep red with a slight purple hue on release. The wine has a rich mix of dark chocolate infused with coffee bean and black liquorice, then scents of tar, aniseed, raw (pure) soy and black olive on the nose. The palate is expansive, and yet balanced and finessed. An amalgam of dark berried flavors and textural sensations. The 100% new oak is completely absorbed, meshed with ripe tannins, completing a palate of impressive length and youthfulness.

Sourced from Thorn-Clarke’s St Kitts vineyard (Block 7) in the far north of the Barossa, the Rubus Reserve demonstrates both the strengths of the region and the unique characters of the vineyard. 

A thin layer of topsoil over weathered marble, schist and shale mean the vines work hard to source water and nutrients. The result is naturally low yields concentrating the power and density of the fruit.  Diurnal temperature variation is another important aspect of St. Kitts.  Warm daytime temperatures are followed by cool nights with variations of up to 30°C (55°F) from the peak during the day into the cool night minimums.


Review:

“Earthy detail develops in this sleek and juicy shiraz, a tarry streak under fresh plum and bruised strawberry. The tannins have gravity and precision, their bracing intensity and concentration integrated into what panelist David Hawkins described as “a big, powerful wine with great liveliness.” While suited to aging, this is accessible now if you’re grilling meats to serve with it.”
- Wine & Spirits (February 2023), 94 pts

"Made by Thorn-Clarke for the US market, this has a rich and vivid nose with blueberry, violet, dark plum and subtle oak spice in play. The palate has a succulent feel with plenty of rich, open-knit blackberry and blueberry flavor. Smoothly delivered tannins carry long and even. Drink over the next decade."
- James Suckling (November 2021), 94 pts


 94 Points
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