Every now and then, in life and in wine, we are presented with unique opportunities to express ourselves and create something truly remarkable.
When rare opportunities arise, we need to capture, nurture and develop them so that their potential is fulfilled. So when Torbreck was given the opportunity to work with one of the most famous vineyards in the Barossa Valley, it became almost inevitable that the resulting wine would be truly remarkable.
In 2003, Torbreck growers and fourth generation descendants of the Seppelt family, Malcolm and Joylene Seppelt, asked our winemakers to create for them a small batch of Shiraz from their old Gnadenfrei vineyard in the sub-region of Marananga.
Planted in 1958, the five acre vineyard is traditionally dry grown and comes from an original Barossa clonal source. South facing, on the eastern side of a ridge separating the Seppeltsfield and Marananga appellations, these aged vines have been meticulously hand tended, traditionally farmed and pruned by a grower with a lifetime’s experience on Western Barossa soils of very dark, heavy clay loam over red friable clay. The resulting low yields of small, concentrated Shiraz berries make the vineyard the envy of all winemakers in the Barossa.
We looked longingly at the wine when it was returned to the Seppelts, knowing that it was the best we had ever made. In 2005 we convinced the Seppelts to sell Torbreck the fruit and The Laird was born. In 2013 Torbreck purchased the Gnadenfrei vineyard, securing The Laird’s reputation as one of the world’s great single vineyard Shiraz wines.
Torbreck is the name of a forest near Inverness, Scotland and you’ll find more than a passing nod to the Celts in our wine naming conventions. The Laird of the Estate in Scotland is the Lord of the Manor and master of all he surveys.
Review:
I poured the 2017 The Laird, set it aside and got about doing other jobs for 45 minutes or so, to give it some room to breathe. And it does breathe. It has its own pulse and beat and life, and it flexes and moves in the mouth. This is incredibly enveloping, with aromas reminiscent of campfire coals, charred eucalyptus, lamb fat, roasted beetroot, black tea and a prowling sort of countenance. In the mouth, the wine is bonded and cohesive and seamless, there are no gaps between anything, no space between fruit, oak and tannin; it all comes as one. While this is a singular wine, it is so big and concentrated that it needs no accompaniment other than some fresh air and a good mate. It's denser than osmium and is impenetrable at this stage.
Holocene The Black Square Cabernet Sauvignon is made from 100 percent Cabernet Sauvignon.
There is something ethereal about Cabernet Sauvignon grown in the cobblestone soils of the Walla Walla Valley. This region offers aromatic exuberance, elegance, finesse, a polished texture, layered complexity, and remarkable length. It is a place where one can craft a singular, stand-alone example of this varietal—unique not only in the United States but worldwide—while still echoing some of our favorite wines from Bordeaux.
In 2022, Winemaker Todd Alexander embarked on a new (yet familiar) journey that he had been patiently awaiting the perfect moment to explore. The Black Square is in its inaugural vintage, and this 2022 is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon grown in the Rocks District of Milton-Freewater, Oregon, which is part of the Walla Walla Valley.
The Black Square embodies elegance and grace framed by great structure, supple texture, and acidity to ensure longevity. It shows ample fruit with complex savory notes. This is not a heavy wine that is monolithic and dull—there are already plenty of those available. This wine offers a unique expression of Cabernet; it may be the most delicious wine Todd Alexander has ever crafted, venturing into new territory for Rocks District Cabernet Sauvignon.
Review:
As black as squid ink, The Black Square is balance personified. A concentrated blackberry aroma seems as dark as the wine's name, with equally dark espresso, olive and charred steak notes joining it in the abyss. A dark plum and ripe boysenberry flavor combo is accompanied by traces of salty Mission olives, wet slate and silky smooth tannins. The one bright feature illuminating the way is the wine's amped-up acidity. None so black
-Wine Enthusiast 98 Points Number 5 in the Top 100