Franz Prager, co-founder of the Vinea Wachau, had already earned a reputation for his wines when Toni Bodenstein married into the family. Bodenstein’s passion for biodiversity and old terraces, coupled with brilliant winemaking, places Prager in the highest echelon of Austrian producers.
Smaragd is a designation of ripeness for dry wines used exclusively by members of the Vinea Wachau. The wines must have minimum alcohol of 12.5%. The grapes are hand-harvested, typically in October and November, and are sent directly to press where they spontaneously ferment in stainless-steel tanks.
Zwerithaler is a sub-site of Buschenberg and sits to the east of Weißenkirchen. The name Zwerithaler, meaning "nestled between the valleys," is a near monopole of Weingut Prager. It has a complex soil of paragneiss with alternating layers of dark and calcareous rock. Zwerithaler Kammergut is a 0.34-hectare parcel planted before WWI. The wine from these ungrafted, 100-year-old vines was bottled separately by Prager for the first time in 2015.
Light greenish yellow, silver reflections. Fine savory, delicate nuances of anise, tobacco notes, delicate yellow fruit, a touch of mango and honey blossom. Full-bodied, juicy white apple fruit, well-integrated, silky acidity structure, finesse and long persistence, saline finish, lingers for minutes, Veltliner at its best.
-Falstaff 99 Points
"The aromas of this old-vine gruner veltliner leap out and shake you to the core. Full-bodied and full of weighty and balanced layers of papayas, mangoes, nectarines, chives, white tea and oranges. Fantastic concentration, giving so much pleasure already, but it will keep blossoming if you give it time. From vines planted in 1907. Sustainable. Drink or hold."
-James Suckling 98 Points
Bertrand Bachelet Chassagne Montrachet Premier Cru Morgeot is made from 100 percent Chardonnay.
The Chassagne-Montrachet appellation is located in the southern part of the Côte de Beaune and produces mainly white wines.
'Morgeot' is located in the south of the village, characterized by compact limestone soil containing iron oxide, which gives the soil its particular red-brown color.
The wine offers a golden color, a subtle nose of white flowers and honey notes. Full-bodied and well-structured on the palate.
The softness of the Chardonnay on the palate makes an interesting pairing with cooked foie gras; it also sits well with lobster, spiny lobster, or even morel mushroom dumplings or Bresse chicken in a cream sauce.
Charles Heidsieck Vintage Brut is made from 57% Pinot Noir, 43% Chardonnay.
A beautiful golden robe offers glints of green accentuated by a delicate, dynamic effervescence. The initial nose introduces intense toasted and smoky notes along with ripe fruit. When swirled in the glass, the nose takes on a heartier dimension with touches of apricot and vineyard peaches. The aromatic concentration, due to a heat wave of several weeks, is reminiscent of the summer sun. The attack is taut and decisive. the creamy texture, the crisp fruitiness and spiced notes of cinnamon, licorice and pepper are the hallmark of the House style.
Review:
Aged for eight years on the lees before disgorgement, the Champagne is deliciously toasty with acidity and fine dryness.
-Wine Enthusiast 96 Points
Disgorged in January of 2023, the 2013 Champagne Millésime Brut was the last vintage from the cellar master for Heidsieck prior to Cyril Brun. The 2013 Champagne Millésime Brut is a bright straw yellow color and is based on the crus of Les Mesnil, Avize, Averney, and Aÿ. It’s fresh with aromas of wet stones, fresh quince, and fresh jasmine flowers. It has a chalky and focused texture, with ripeness to balance it out, and a long, graceful finish. At this stage, it feels more forward with 57% Pinot Noir and the rest Chardonnay. A more mineral-tinged expression, it has a lot of charm and the promise of longevity over the coming two decades. Drink 2024-2044. It will be interesting to see how the Pinot shows itself over time. 8 grams per liter dosage.
-Jeb Dunnuck 95 Points
Morlet Family Vineyards La Proportion Doree is made from made from Sémillon (65%), Sauvignon Blanc (33%) and Muscadelle (2%).
A harmonious blend of the three classic white Bordeaux varietals grown in the Golden State’s Sonoma County, this unique cuvée was handcrafted using classical winemaking techniques inspired from Pessac-Léognan. As in architectural arts, it is ‘The Golden Ratio’ or ‘La Proportion Dorée.’ Bright yellow. Intense bouquet of candied lemon, muscat, and honeysuckle flavors intermixed with sweet notes of ripened apricot and fresh quince. Full-bodied, seamless, refined and complex.
Review:
Luc Morlet has 100 Muscadelle vines, planted in 1953, which he co-ferments with the Sauvignon Blanc to produce this Semillon-based wine. Composed of 69% Semillon, 30% Sauvignon Blanc, and 1% Muscadelle, the 2020 Proportion Doree is a tad closed - it was only bottled in March this year. It soon reveals notes of ripe peaches, gooseberries, and white currants, with hints of white pepper, coriander seed, and oyster shell. Full-bodied, the palate is wonderfully viscous and racy with intense citrus and apple flavors, finishing long and chalky. 800 cases were made.
-Wine Independent 98 Points
Ossian Capitel Verdejo is made from 100% Verdejo.
Ossian Capital represents a particular expression of very old Verdejo vines, taking its potential far finesse, elegance and longevity. It is made in selected years with a selection of extraordinary grapes.
Color: Old golden yellow color with greenish reflections.
Aromas: Surprisingly nuanced and profound.
Flavors: Fresh, full and very light.
Review:
"The 2020 Capitel is pure Verdejo from the oldest vines from the Peña Aguda vineyard in the village of Nieva on slate soils. This is the last vineyard to be bottled and has higher alcohol (14%) than the rest of the vineyards despite now harvesting earlier. The wine has a different aromatic profile but getting closer to the style of Ossian, less opulent than in the past, with more energy, quite fruit-driven with some exotic notes reminiscent of banana skin. The whole clusters were pressed and the juice put to ferment in barrel where the wine matured with the lees and, starting this year, without bâtonnage, because they feel the wines have enough volume and stirring the lees can bring more oxidation to the wine. 2,500 bottles produced. - Luis GUTIERREZ"
- Robert Parker's Wine Advocate (January 31st 2023), 93+ pts
100% Chardonnay aged 14 months in 30% new French oak.
Review:
“Stone fruits, buttered citrus, white flowers, and a subtle hint of green almonds all emerge from the 2021 Chardonnay Buena Tierra Vineyard, a medium to full-bodied, ripe, yet elegant Chardonnay. I love its overall balance, and it brings an impressive mix of richness and elegance.”
Jeb Dunnuck, 96 points
Trouillet Lebeau Pouilly Fuisse Premier Cru Pouilly 2021 is made from 100% Chardonnay.
This wine, now sold under the Premier Cru Pouilly AOC, is not new to our portfolio. This wine used to be called “Coeur de Pouilly” and it was the estate's latest Pouilly-Fuissé cuvée. Starting with the 2021 vintage, this climat is now officially classified as Premier Cru !
It comes from the best plots located in the heart of the appellation and aged in oak barrels. The wine shows a pale yellow color with deep golden highlights, an aromatic and complex nose with fruity (fresh almond, apricot) and floral (violet) notes. Powerful and fleshy in the mouth, it reveals notes of lime trees, cinnamon, honey and has a good aromatic persistence.
Enjoy it with poultry, such as Poulet de Bresse (blue-footed chicken) or with strong fish, such as pike or bass.
Chavy Chouet Puligny Montrachet Les Enseigneres is 100 percent Chardonnay
100% Chardonnay, aged in 100% new French oak, displaying delightful, crisp, mineral aromas intertwined with toasty and vanilla notes. The result is a well balanced and harmonious Puligny of great finesse.
Aged in 100% New French oak
The Enseigneres is the most renowned of the Puligny-Montrachet villages, thanks to its exceptional geographical and geological location, along with its close neighbors Bienvenues-Batard-Montrachet and Batard-Montrachet.
Displaying delightful, crisp, mineral aromas intertwined with toasty and vanilla notes. The result is a well-balanced and harmonious Puligny-Montrachet of great finesse and good ageing potential.
This fine and sensual wine, with hints of blossom and roasted hazelnut, has a concentration that makes it discreet in its youth but powerful over time. Located right next to Puligny-Montrachet, the plot of Les Charmes was planted in 1943 on a sandy clay-limestone soil that produces small, concentrated berries for an intense wine that is perfect for ageing.
Chavy-Chouet Meursault Les Vireuils is made from 100 percent Chardonnay.
The "Les Vireuils" parcel is located on the top of the hill above Meursault, right below the forest.
It is slightly cooler parcel with a limestone soils with a higher presence of rocks. The wines coming from this parcel are always sharp with a vibrant acidity and a lot of freshness.
Tasting notes: Concentrated, powerful, and lively, Les Vireuils has all the classic characteristics of the Meursault appellation. Its sophistication, structure, and assured elegance reflect the character of the soil.
It is a great match with fish in creamy sauce, cheese, white meats.
Clos Saint-Jean is a 41-hectare estate in Châteauneuf-du-Pape run by brothers Vincent and Pascal Maurel. Considered by many critics and wine-writers as the preeminent estate espousing the modern style of winemaking in Châteauneuf, this cellar is one of the oldest in the region, having been founded in 1900 by the greatgreat-grandfather of Vincent and Pascal, Edmund Tacussel. A short time after its founding and well before the AOP of Chateauneuf-du-Pape was created in 1923, Edmund began bottling estate wines in 1910.
The farming at Clos Saint-Jean is fully sustainable due to the warm and dry climate, which prevents the need for chemical inputs. Instead, Vincent and Pascal employ organic methods for pest control, mainly pheromones, to prevent pests from taking up residence in their vines, a process called amusingly enough in French, confusion sexuelle. The vines tended manually, and harvest is conducted in several passes entirely by hand.
Combe des Fous literally means, the hill of the fool. The hill, in this case, is located in the far southern reach of Le Crau which was left barren for many centuries because the layer of galets was so exceedingly deep that everyone assumed vines could never survive there. The fool in this situation is Edmund Tacussel, the great-great-grandfather of Vincent and Pascal Maruel who planted a Grenache vineyard on this site in 1905. That old-vine Grenache form the heart of this cuvée with a small amount of Syrah, Cinsault and Vaccarèse. La Combe des Fous is only made in the best vintages.
Review:
This has good concentration and energy to the dense core of dark fruit and bitter cherry, with great poise and elegance despite its ripeness (an impressive feat for the vintage). Guided by finely crushed mineral accents and tannins, this reveals pretty high-toned floral notes and leafy tobacco. Grenache, Syrah, Mourvedre, Cinsault, Vaccarese and Muscardin. Drink now through 2032. 900 cases made.
-Wine Spectator 95 Points
Guillemot-Michel Vire Clesse (magnum) is made from 100 percent Chardonnay.
Beautifully expressive, with yellow fruits, orange blossom, smoke & flint. Thick and saline on entry, then seriously deep in the mid-palate, with suggestions of exotic fruits perfectly countered by strong minerality. This wine strikes a perfect balance between sweet and salty elements, and it shows vibrant acidity. It boasts a thickness that few other northern Mâconnais can match.
Enjoy with fish (such as sole meuniere), seafood, roasted chicken, goat cheese.
Joseph Phelps Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon is made from 94% Cabernet Sauvignon, 3% Cabernet Franc, 2% Merlot, 1% Malbec.
A classic Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon with inviting violet, dark fruit, tobacco, subtle baking spice and earthy dried herb aromatics. The palate is filled with expressive black cherry, blackberry and dark plum, hints of spice box and sweet vanilla bean. A focused, concentrated wine with youthful energy and freshness nimbly balanced by supple tannin structure and finesse.
Review:
This wine is lovely in juicy red fruit, dried herb and hints of allspice, the tannin structure firm and giving. Offering refinement and structure, it shows nuances of black currant, cherry and toasted oak. This will do well in the cellar.
Wine Enthusiast Cellar Selection 94 Points
Bernardins Dry Muscat Dore des Bernardins is made from 100% white Muscat petit grains.
Doré des Bernardins is a dry white wine that is only produced in years when the Muscat à petit grains crop is large enough. Grapes are picked at the same ripeness level as for the Vin Doux Naturel. In contrast to Muscat de Beaumes de Venise, the fermentation isn’t stopped, giving a fruity dry wine with intense Muscat aromas.
Dry Muscat with a fruity, nice perfume, honeysuckle and melon aromas, lively rounded mouth-feel. Elegant, fresh and medium-bodied.
Situation
Spreads out over the south-east side of the Dentelles de Montmirail hills, in Beaumes de Venise in the southern part of the Rhone valley.
Terroir
On a poor sandy, hungry and arid soil consisting of tender limestone and gritty zones of sandy mollasse.
In the vineyard
The vineyards and their terroir are the essence of our wines. This is where everything starts and where we focus our efforts throughout the year. You can’t make great wine without great grapes.
The viticulture is essentially done by hand. Five people work full-time in the vineyards. They are supplemented by seasonal employees who work during bunch thinning and the harvest in order to bring out the very best in our vines. Working by hand and the attention each vine gets are fundamental. Pruning, de-budding, trellising, leaf removal and picking are thus carried out by hand with the utmost care.
We prepare the soil by using good old-fashioned ploughing. Organic compost is made from grape marc (the discarded stalks and skins).
As a way of protecting the plants, we only use phytosanitary products when necessary and within strict guidelines by staggering the treatments appropriately, to minimise the amount of chemicals used. We prefer to use as much as possible manual and organic techniques. Leaving natural grass cover, removing buds and leaves from the vines, preserving biodiversity around the vineyard: olive, almond and cypress trees, wild rosemary and capers.
Winemaking
Our Doré des Bernardins is a dry white wine that we only produce in years when the Muscat à petits grains crop is large enough. We pick the grapes at the same ripeness level as for the Vin Doux Naturel. In contrast to Muscat de Beaumes, the fermentation isn’t stopped, giving a fruity dry wine with intense Muscat aromas.
Nicely chilled, this dry white wine is great as an aperitif or with asparagus, seafood, king prawns, fish.