" We don't sell the wine without touching the vine "
Wine from Akitabare Brewing Company
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The Akitabare Brewery
"Koshiki Junzukuri" (The Old Way) read the characters on Akitabare Sake Brewing Company's junmai label, and a glimpse inside the brewery shows why. Many of the tools from a hundred years ago–the huge wooden basin for soaking the rice, the giant kama for steaming it–are still in use
today.
Considerable technical innovation has occurred in the sake world over the last hundred years and many of the new tools and techniques have elevated the level of sake quality. But when change is just for the sake of modernization, or to increase productivity, or to maximize earnings, there is always a trade-off in quality. And this is a trade-off that Akitabare has never been willing to make.
What this commitment means in practice is delicacy, precision and care at every step of the brewing process. Akitabare sakes possess perfect balance, a mild aroma and a subtlely expressed but very distinct taste profile. They tend to appeal to experienced connoisseurs not overly impressed with flowery aromas and ornate flavors and for whom balance, clarity and finesse are the mark of a superior label.
"People's taste may change over time, and our sakes will change as well, but they will always have a satisfying taste and a distinct personality," says Kazuo Kawaguchi, the brewery's president. "If we had a motto, it would be 'fierce adherence to tradition, skillful adaptation to change.' If we were a flower, we would be a peony."
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Irresistible ripened plums and opulent dusty blackberries lift the senses, alluring the nose to tertiary notes of delicate florals and intriguing mineral edges. Balance is the defining quality of this wine; even in its youth, 2021 Black Label is resolutely complete from beginning to end. Every element is in place, as dimpled yet silky tannins unfold with grace and finesse, revealing a core of power and depth. Broad strokes of black mulberries, crème de cassis, and juniper accelerate through the mid-palate with captivating width and focus. This thrilling dance culminates in a stunning finish of opulent and elegant dark fruits that persist with each sip, leaving an indelible impression of the near-perfect growing season that shaped the Fortuna Vineyard—full of power and sinue—and Leopoldina Vineyard—full of poise and intention—in the 2021 vintage.
"Stunning stuff, the 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon Black Label offers a full-bodied, deep, majestic style as well as beautiful aromatics of cr me de cassis, violets, flowers, and nicely integrated background oak. It has ultra-fine tannins, flawless balance, and a regal, age-worthy style that has so much to love. It, however, is not going to be for the instant gratification crowd and this actually shut down pretty quickly with air. I would hide bottle for 4-6 years and it s going to cruise over the following two decades in cold cellars."
- 97 Points Jeb Dunnuck
The grapes for this wine were grown in the Oak Knoll District of Napa Valley, where soils are transitional from gravel to silty clay loam. The climate is moderate to cool with marine air until mid-morning and frequent late afternoon breezes that maintain cooler temperatures and ensure a longer growing season. Chardonnay from this region showcase flavors of crisp apple, mineral notes and tropical fruit with good acidity.
Aromas of lemon curd, sweet butter, brioche and sun-ripened peach mingle with notes of nutmeg and vanilla bean. The palate is creamy, with zesty lemon overtones and minerality persisting on the finish.
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