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It is hard to imagine with the Lithology range receiving 298 points out of 300 for the three single-vineyard wines, that there could possibly be a wine above them. But there is, and it is our Estate wine. Blended several times very intently by masters of their craft Philippe Melka and Michel Rolland, this is the ultimate expression of our house’s work. Positive, full-bodied, and quite powerful, there’s the expected crème de cassis and blackberry from St. Helena Cabernets, with mineral, herb, subtle tobacco and vanilla, plum skins, and pie crust, purple flowers, forest-conifer notes, and very fine tannic structure. It is a magnificent, and magnificently elegant expression of this house, and when asked recently, Monsieur Rolland stated plainly to me, “oh yes indeed – this is the best one, the best yet…”
Review:
Pure perfection in Cabernet, the 2019 Cabernet Sauvignon Alejandro Bulgheroni is all varietal and comes two-thirds from Oakville with the balance from sites in St. Helena and Rutherford. Aged 20 months in 70% new French oak and put together by Philippe Melka and Michel Rolland, it has an incredibly pure, full-bodied, massive yet weightless style that I suspect couldn’t be achieved anywhere outside of Napa Valley. Cassis, blackberries, leafy herbs, lead pencil shavings, and tobacco leaf are just some of the nuances here, and it’s full-bodied, deep, and concentrated on the palate while maintaining an ethereal, seamless, utterly perfect balance between its fruit, alcohol, tannins, and acidity. As good as it gets, it needs just 2-4 years in the cellar and will evolve gracefully for at least 20-25 years.
-Jeb Dunnuck 100 Points
Kershaw Pinot Noir Deconstructed Kogelberg Sandstone PN115 is made from 100 percent Pinot Noir.
Only two barrels made. The inspiration for these Deconstructed Pinot Noir’s stems from my belief that the Elgin region boasts credentials that make it world-class. My mandate has been to prove that Elgin has a signature grape synonymous with the area and exhibits specific ‘terroirs’ (mesoclimates) within its demarcated boundary, reflecting regional distinctions. To fully comprehend this, it is necessary to dig deeper into the DNA that makes up our region. As such, I split Elgin into seven different sub-regions or zones whereby each zone identifies with a particular topographical or climatic nuance. Within these zones, I then selected specific vineyards and further an individual clone. This wine is from the South Western part of Elgin, in the Kogelberg biosphere. The Sandstone soils lend lightness, elegance and lift in the mid-palate, very subtle. PN115 tends to be more broad and structured but on these soils still has a lovely lift.
Tasting Notes : Light to medium cerise; intense and attractive aromas of strawberry, Bing cherry, orange peel and dark chocolate. The perfume lingers into the palate as the entry is medium-bodied, juicy, ripe and silky-textured. A pulsating acidity coated by fleshy red plums, cherry compote and tinned strawberry. Intermingled are wisps of incense, almost peat notes from an earthier wood content giving a beguiling interplay of wood and fruit. Complex with excellent concentration, the wine has a crushed velvet tannin and persistency that lingers on for many minutes.
Pair with roast duck breast with a raspberry glaze.